'17 V6 Build - I bought a Mustang?!?!?!

[ctandc72]

Did you have the PP K-member parts? I wondered if the 2-point track brace is worth the upgrade in comparison to the PP parts. I have the PP K-member parts installed. Still thinking of picking up the track brace.

I added the cowl brace and extension under the hood to the V6 car. I did not add the underbody K brace, I used the 2 pt Steeda brace.

The '19 will get the black Ford Performance strut tower and cowl brace eventually.

I can tell you that the Steeda 2 pt brace (PP brace might manage the same I don't know) made a HUGE difference in BOTH cars when I went to 19x10 wheels and 275/40/19 tires. The brace cut down A LOT of the car wanting to tramline / follow road imperfections with the brace install.

What's ironic - I will try to get some pics - the '19 GT sits higher than the '17 V6 with the same wheels and tires. LOL. I hate lowering cars, we'll see if it annoys me.

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[USMCtoARMY]

I added the cowl brace and extension under the hood to the V6 car. I did not add the underbody K brace, I used the 2 pt Steeda brace.

The '19 will get the black Ford Performance strut tower and cowl brace eventually.

I can tell you that the Steeda 2 pt brace (PP brace might manage the same I don't know) made a HUGE difference in BOTH cars when I went to 19x10 wheels and 275/40/19 tires. The brace cut down A LOT of the car wanting to tramline / follow road imperfections with the brace install.

What's ironic - I will try to get some pics - the '19 GT sits higher than the '17 V6 with the same wheels and tires. LOL. I hate lowering cars, we'll see if it annoys me.

That sounds about right. I added ALL the PP suspension parts to include under body. Huge improvement and yes, tram-line improvement. I also added the strut brace w/spacers. I may hold off on this until after I get the rest of suspension parts installed, which includes my new front control arms w/bumpsteer. I imagine the GT sits higher cause of stiffer springs between 17 to 18 model years.

 

[ctandc72]

You should have let me know eariler...Haha I swapped by base carbon trim back into my 6 before trading. I have the 50th AP spun aluminum dash sitting in my office right now.

PS: Taking the chrome trim off of the AC vents is very easy. The trim is removable from the body of the vent and just held together by clips so you can remove it and paint without needing to mask anything.

Figures LOL. I'm thinking about just pulling my trim and getting a guy I know to vinyl wrap it. Thanks for the heads up on the vents. Still haven't figures out drive modes on the '19 after Sync 3 swap. Tried every thing posted here on the subject - no dice. I gotta feeling the '19 changed some data. I'm going to buy a worksheet from Hextall with the needed data.

Check out the APIM for the BASE '19 GT

I'm betting you could update this to Sync 3 with the right tools / software / interface. Probably just has less memory or something

 

[zackmd1]

Yea no more plastic base APIM. So they did change things from 18 to 19. Use that AS BUILT data from the 301A you pulled for the drive modes. Copy the lines (specified in the swap thread) from that data over to your car in the IPC and ABS modules. That should enable drive modes. There should be 1-2 lines in the IPC and 1 line in the ABS to modify.

 

[zackmd1]

Have you seen this yet?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...SN7v6AjN_t9rWvz0npQpcBbU_u0/edit#gid=53101868

 

[ctandc72]

Yes I've seen that sheet. Those values didn't work on my '19.
I also tried copying a '19 GT 301A 6 speed - and the lines are identical to mine MOSTLY.

I've got an asbuilt for a '19 GT 301A 6 speed car (identical to my car except for 301A package - dual climate, Sync 3 and drive modes)
I've compared both as built files - and there are only a few differences (not counting ACM (Audio) differences)

FCIM

7A7-01-03 These values appear to be related to dual climate control - only 1 digit is different (Xxxx) first block

7A7-02-02 Again 1 digit difference (xxxx xxxX xxxx)

7A7-02-03 1 digit difference (xxxx xxxx xXxx)

7A7-02-04 (xXxX xX)

BCMB

7B7-01-01 xxXX xxxx X

7B7-04-01 XXxx xxxx xx

There are a few APIM differences of course

IPC

720-06-01 xxxx xxxx xX

BCM

726-10-01 xxxx xXxx xx

726-11-01 xxxx xXxX xX

726-12-01 xxxx xxXX xx


I'm tempted to simply use the values in the IPC, BCM and ABS that differ for the 19 Base 301A 6 speed non PP. Identical to my car except for 301A package and blackout appearance package.

I can always revert back.



726-29-02 xxxx xxxX xx

726-40-01 xxxx xXxX xx

There are a couple RCM (restraint control module differences) and ACM difference of course

ABS

760-01-02 xxxx xxxX xx

760-01-03 xxxx xxxx xX

760-01-04 xXxX xX

760-02-01 xxxx Xxxx xx

760-02-02 xxxx Xxxx xx

 

[MidwayJ]

What's ironic - I will try to get some pics - the '19 GT sits higher than the '17 V6 with the same wheels and tires. LOL. I hate lowering cars, we'll see if it annoys me.

I have the BMR minimal drop springs. Also with 275/40 tires. Doesn't lower it a lot but I think they handle really well (also with PP1 dampers). Great color choice by the way and congrats on the new car!

 

[ctandc72]

I have the BMR minimal drop springs. Also with 275/40 tires. Doesn't lower it a lot but I think they handle really well (also with PP1 dampers). Great color choice by the way and congrats on the new car!

Thanks.

UPDATE:

Tried the settings in as built just a few minutes ago.
Everything will write just fine - but when trying to change the IPC setting - it gives no error, seems to write 100% then Forscan kicks out of the module screen and says "Service procedure interrupted" or something to that affect. Same error several times.

Weird.

 

[zackmd1]

Thanks.

UPDATE:

Tried the settings in as built just a few minutes ago.
Everything will write just fine - but when trying to change the IPC setting - it gives no error, seems to write 100% then Forscan kicks out of the module screen and says "Service procedure interrupted" or something to that affect. Same error several times.

Weird.

It is possible Forscan does not support the 19+ cluster. Can you write anything to the IPC?

 

[ctandc72]

It is possible Forscan does not support the 19+ cluster. Can you write anything to the IPC?

Waiting on Hextall to respond - but I've found one member here who has a '19 GT Base. Bought the Sync 3 conversion from Hextall and drive modes were enabled via remote session. I'm betting it's linked to something else.

Messing with ABS codes (listed above) I of course got the "Service Advance Trac" errors. I reverted back to stock for all ABS setttings, will run an ABS module calibration via Forscan tonight and go from there.

 

[ctandc72]

It is possible Forscan does not support the 19+ cluster. Can you write anything to the IPC?

Waiting on Hextall to respond - but I've found one member here who has a '19 GT Base. Bought the Sync 3 conversion from Hextall and drive modes were enabled via remote session. I'm betting it's linked to something else.

Messing with ABS codes (listed above) I of course got the "Service Advance Trac" errors. I reverted back to stock for all ABS setttings, will run an ABS module calibration via Forscan tonight and go from there.

 

[ctandc72]

Got it. Drive modes working!
I could never write to the IPC to make the change to the drive mode toggle. Had to update to the just released Forscan beta and was able to make the change.
The ABS change was a bit different on the ‘19 as well. Will list the correct codes tomorrow.

 

[MidwayJ]

Got it. Drive modes working!
I could never write to the IPC to make the change to the drive mode toggle. Had to update to the just released Forscan beta and was able to make the change.
The ABS change was a bit different on the ‘19 as well. Will list the correct codes tomorrow.

Good news!

 

[ctandc72]

Okay so whenever I was trying to write to the IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster) to make the needed change to allow drive modes to show up via the toggle on the FCIM (Front Control Interface Module - aka Premium Radio / AC bezel) I would input the correct values, try to write the change - and it would get to 100% then it would kick out of the screen for programming the IPC module and FORSCAN and I would get a "Service procedure interrupted" error.

I was using the latest FORSCAN version as of a week or so ago.

Did some digging and apparently more than a few 2019 Ford models were having basically the same issues (none were Mustangs) they could not write to the IPC on a 2019 model Ford. Turns out on 9/28 they released a Forscan beta (version 2.3.25). I upgraded to this version yesterday and was able to make the changes to the IPC with no issues.

I made some unneeded changes before I realized it was the Forscan version not playing nice with the 2019 - so I'm DEFINITELY betting there are differences even between '18 and '19 setups.

I will post to the AS BUILT modify thread to help people who might make the same mistake.

Long story not so long?

Drive modes work (Normal, Sport+, Track, Dragstrip, etc) - Track mode is ridiculously fun.

 

[musclesoh92467]

Figured I do a little write up on installing headers on the V6. Haven't really seen any decent ones for the S550. Most of this will apply whether you are installing shorty headers or long tubes.

While I have done plenty of work on all types of cars on hoists / lifts (and I actually plan on installing a lift hopefully by end of Summer) this job is very doable with jack stands and a floor jack. I'm well over 40 years old and I did it.

Time frame: If you've done headers before, you are ahead of the curve. For this install, I had the car in my shop with the heater running (it was cold) and I took multiple breaks to eat, etc etc. Honest estimate, if I had to make good time, I could install these in a 3-4 hours.

Tools : Make your life easier. Get some stubby ratcheting wrenches and some ratcheting wrenches with the angled head. Get a swivel and plenty of extensions for your ratchet.

- Start loosening headers bolts BEFORE jacking it up. I'm well over 6' and even I did this. I was taking shorty headers off for long tubes here - but I also installed the shorty headers - so it all pretty much applies. If you are shorter you're going to need a stool etc to get to these header bolts once you'v jacked the car up.

- Go ahead and remove the negative battery cable. Takes 2 minutes and worth it for when you drop the starter.

- Remove all the header bolts you can from the top. Don't freak out if the entire stud comes out when removing the nuts. It's not a deal breaker. Granted I plan on eventually replacing all the studs with bolts (more room clearances) and I want to replace the factory bolts with grade 8 stainless

- On the passenger side it was greatly beneficial to me (I have large hands) to remove the 10mm bolt holding the metal coolant pipe in place above the passenger side exhaust manifold / header. You can then pop off the plastic mount that holds the coolant pipe towards the front of the engine. It gives you a lot more wiggle room to be able to move that pipe around and it takes no time at all.

- Unplugging the factory 02 sensor plugs. Driver's side is right there at the back of the engine. Find the tab you can push on. Keep pushing until you feel it click, it'll come right out after that. Same for the passenger side but it was easier for me to get this loose when I was underneath the car, YMMV.

- Now get it up in the air. Jacking rails greatly help here because they allow you to jack up the car on the rail, and still have room to use the factory jacking points for placing the jack stands. Normally I'll jack up the front, get it on jack stands, then jack up the rear (using the rear end pumpkin) in one go - placing the rear jack stands under the factory rear jacking points. Once the car is up and STABLE (make sure every jack stand is at the same height in the front and in the rear) I normally use the jacking rails again and go up higher in the front. The more room the better.

- Get your extensions, socket and swivel and remove the two nuts on each manifold / shorty header where the mid pipe bolts up. Let it hang loose from the OEM clamps going to the cat back.

- Now disconnect the rear 02 sensor harnesses. TIP: If you are doing shorty headers that bolt up to stock mid pipe you don't even need to remove the mid pipe if you don't want. It's tight, but the shorty headers will drop in from the top. You'll just need to loosen the OEM clamps where the mid pipe slips into the cat back. That means you can leave these 02 sensors plugged up.

If you are doing long tubes / removing the mid pipe - the rear 02 harnesses are held in by a plastic stud / clip that mounts onto the side of the transmission (this is for a 6 speed manual - you auto guys have to see what you're working with) you can push this stud out of the mount, which gives you slack in the harness - they are held in place by the same clip arrangement as the front. If you are having trouble getting them loose DO NOT break out the screwdriver. Just push on the tab as close to the outside end as you can until you hear / feel the click of the tab releasing and pull the connector out.

- Now use a 15mm deep well and loosen the two bolts on each exhaust clamp that holds the mid pipe to the cat back.

- Remove the mid pipe and put it out of your way

- Get underneath. Start on the passenger side. Remove the two 13/14mm bolts holding the starter in. Literally takes 2 minutes. The way the factory starter wiring harness is run, you can let the starter hang, it will not damage the smaller wires the main harness is mounted and will hold it without issues.

- Remove the header / exhaust nuts you weren't able to reach from the top. The short / angled ratchet wrenches earn their pay check here. Once it's off, remove the header. It'll come out easy from the bottom with the starter gone.

- Move to the driver's side. Same deal. Pretty sure I removed this header / manifold from the top both times.

- If you are keeping the stock mid pipe skip this: Otherwise, use a 22mm wrench, 02 sensor socket or crescent wrench (be careful not to round the wrench flats on the 02 sensor) remove the 02 sensors from the mid pipe. Keep track of the upstream (front) and downstream (rear - after cat) sensors. FYI: 6 pin connector is front, 4 pin is rear.

- Now pick a side and either drop the header in (Shorty) or place the long tube in from the bottom. If you have an aftermarket bottom brace (like the 2 point Steeda I have) you'll need to remove this to get the long tubes in.

GASKETS - I left the OEM metal gaskets in place during my both my header installs with no leaks or issues.

- Hang the new header from the studs. If you had a few come out when you removed the headers, still no worries. Just screw those back in like a bolt. If the nut was frozen on the stud enough to pull the stud out - they will work fine for installing.

TIP: Personally I don't fully tighten the headers at this point. I didn't have this issue with the long tubes, but the shorty headers needed some "juggling around" to mate up to the stock mid pipe and having these installed loosely allowed some more wiggle room to make sure everything without binding up.

SHORTY HEADERS: Slip the stock mid pipe into the OEM exhaust clamps where it goes to to the cat back. A dead blow hammer can help if you have an aftermarket cat back or just need more clearance to get the header collectors to mate up to the mid pipe. Don't fully tighten the clamps yet - and just LOOSELY install the nuts holding the stock mid pipe to the collectors. Once everything is lined up and loosely bolted up, tighten the headers bolts all the way down on both sides, tighten the collector to mid pipe connections then tighten the clamp to cat back connections. Don't forget to reconnect all your 02 sensor harnesses and put them back where they came from.

LONG TUBES: Once you have the header hanging on the studs, loosely install all the bolts. Do the other side. Then using a bit of anti-seize on the threads (don't get it on the sensor tip itself) install the front 02 sensors onto the collectors of the headers. You'll need the 15-17 6 pin front sensor BBK extensions. You can also use any brand of 15-17 GT 5.0 front sensor extensions - the connectors are identical. I personally plugged the extensions into the factory connections for the front sensors, then routed them behind existing harnesses on each side that kept the wires running against the transmission / bellhousing and kept it well away from the exhaust. I used a few cable ties as needed to keep in cleanly mounted - but still leaving SOME slack as the entire thing does move around a bit.

Mount the defoulers / extensions for the rear 02 sensors in the mid pipe. I used these and haven't thrown a code, even before I flashed my updated MPT tune. Then install the rear sensors (again a bit of anti-seize NOT a lot).

- Test fit the mid pipe. The BBK off road pipe I used fit REALLY snug in the OEM exhaust clamps going to my MBRP GT catback. I totally removed the nuts from the clamps - slid the clamps on the cat back as far as they'd go, then I used a dead blow hammer to seat the mid pipe in the clamps.

- Now install the studs / nuts that hold the collectors of the headers to the mid pipe. The BBK provided studs have both sides of the studs threaded. The shorter side (threads) goes through the hold in the collector on the pipe and THREADS into the header collector itself. Flush to the other side was fine. Loosely install the washer / locknut / nut and do it on both sides, making sure everything lines up.

- Plug up the rear 02 sensors :I personally did NOT use the rear extender harnesses. I just used a couple of cable ties and didn't put the factory connectors back into the mounts on the transmission. I ran them with the extensions but they were way too long and would have required even more cable ties. Again YMMV

Tighten everything down.

Install the starter.

Drop the car down off the stands, tighten the bolts up top on the headers as needed.

Reinstall the coolant pipe bolt and clip. Install the negative battery cable.

Fire it up.

Hopes this helps.

Hi. I just installed BBK shorty headers all is good except leaking at midpipe to header can you tell me method you used to tighten the 4 nuts up so it is aligned? I rotated as I tightened but should I have used jack under cat as I tightened up ? Appreciate any info .....Eric

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