You need an FMIC asap lol. Any more power than stock and ur asking for heat soak before ur out of 1st gear. Heat soak will lead to pulled timing and an increased chance of knocking. Its amazing what they do, even the stage 1 ICs like MAP street that I just installed.Yep!
ATM all the way!I will begin the hunt.
Which of the assorted offerings do we like? Mishimoto? Cobb?
Opinions welcome!
If u go stage 1 mishimoto, MAP street or CPE are all good. I think CPE is the largest by a small margin on those but MAP is the only confirmed IC that be installed without removing the bumper. The others might be able to but there is no confirmation by the manufactures like MAP.I will begin the hunt.
Which of the assorted offerings do we like? Mishimoto? Cobb?
Opinions welcome!
Just to add to this, after seeing the OP's location being in Ontario...I'd just get a stage 1. Sure you could use a Larger one, but honestly Average summer temps look to be around 80 degrees. I'd say you won't be disappointed with a stage 1, but realistically prices aren't much different.If u go stage 1 mishimoto, MAP street or CPE are all good. I think CPE is the largest by a small margin on those but MAP is the only confirmed IC that be installed without removing the bumper. The others might be able to but there is no confirmation by the manufactures like MAP.
if you dont care about removing the bumper and decide to go stage 2 FMIC, then levels is the best bang for ur buck. For $90-100 more you can get ATM which has proven advantages over levels especially at the higher RPM range. Check out the last few pages of the fordcal tune thread for more detailed explanations by TheLion. He tested both FMICs on his car. Either one is miles ahead of stock, you will be happy with any aftermarket IC really.
I hate that guy. Anit-mustang in almost every video. Die hard GM guy that keep loosing to stock mustangsCareful, that guy calls Mustangs a deathtrap!
I always enjoy your post mate..Nope I am knocking anyone or the numbers etc, just curious why the stock like drop in torque is coming from, it should not be that drastic between both runs. All I know is if there is enough heat and knock starts to occur I can see timing being pulled and torque drop, but his power kept rising with the exception of that dip, that is why I think its timing being pulled, or how the tuner has the torque management tuned. It could be a conservative thing. Not knowing the true numbers could be an issue too, 400 wheel torque is near the limit, and I am not sure the stock snail can safely make that, which leads me to believe the numbers may be skewed based on that dyno.
Either way something is off has a torque band of about 100RPMs then it just consistently drops. Off the line it will launch hard then by the time he hits 3rd gear its about 75-80 lb-ft drop. My car pulls till about 5700 but even then its a very mild drop to redline, unlike stock where it drops like his graph does at around 5K, he is dropping 1k before that although making more power at that rpm will still feel better than stock, but you want a trailing smooth transition of power if you can. It would be nice to see his power band increased between 3700 and 4750 or so around say holding 345 to 355 lb-ft of torque.
And not sure if this was answered for you ronemca, but yeah usually the runs are in one gear, either depending on your setup 4th or 5th gear.
They can be, in the wrong hands. Yea, I know, everyone on here is an expert driver.Careful, that guy calls Mustangs a deathtrap!
Where is your dyno posted, And who tuned it for that run.I always enjoy your post mate..
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Heat soak is we're the lose is get a intercooler from enjine and see the torque value
Rise .. the last pro tune I had was from speed city in Seattle with this set up carried
Full torque to 5000 rpm and after that party is over when stock turbo..