fatbillybob
Well-Known Member
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- #1
It has been mentioned several times that the 10r80 would cool better if it did not have the thermostatic bypass. The bypass needs to hit 190F before it opens and even open it restricts flow to the cooler because it is there. Is there a solution?
I did some research knowing nothing about the 10r80 except I am racing it and it does great things! But I'm always looking to improve it and I am in the initial phases of development never racing over 60F before the CV19 stopped all club racing. In preparation for the summer races at 90F ambient temps I have added coolers almost finished plumbing. I will repurpose the trans cooler to be my diff cooler. I removed the condenser.
There isn't much on the 10R but plenty on the 6R80. Here is a picture of where the thermostatic bypass is which is inside the transmission under the valve body.
There is a company making a bypass to delete the wax ford pellet that can fail with a spring type that you see on the very reliable SETRAUB oil filter sandwich plates. It looks like you can pull the ford piece out and just fit in the sprung
T-bypass or maybe leave the bypass out all together?
This is the inside of the 10R80 with valvebody removed. I think the green arrow is where the T-bypass is located because it looks like the 6R bypass location. Perhaps this is an easy removal or the 6R bypass above can fit. The removal of the valve body does not look too difficult or risky?
There is this T-bypass for 10R80 F150's and mustangs it says? But the block think looks more like the blocks that used to be placed outside the transmissions in the old days. I don't see there this block can go? I will have to call the company for clarification on exactly what they are selling.
This is all I know right now. I would be glad to see some others contribute. My pee brain says that if the 10R80 stock bypass reliably opens at 190F and a big cooler is attached keeping tans temps to somewhere like a coolant radiator 205-225F I see no reason remove the bypass. That seems to be a perfectly operational temperature. If the 10R lasts longer performs better at 190F max then I see a reason to delete the bypass. If the mercon LV viscosity at 190F is the target viscosity for best 10R running them perhaps for those tacking using just plain Mercon V might be better if the 225F viscosity of mercon V is equal to the viscosity of 190F mercon LV? I have used viscosity at operational temperature when selecting motor oils and that has never failed me.
I did some research knowing nothing about the 10r80 except I am racing it and it does great things! But I'm always looking to improve it and I am in the initial phases of development never racing over 60F before the CV19 stopped all club racing. In preparation for the summer races at 90F ambient temps I have added coolers almost finished plumbing. I will repurpose the trans cooler to be my diff cooler. I removed the condenser.
There isn't much on the 10R but plenty on the 6R80. Here is a picture of where the thermostatic bypass is which is inside the transmission under the valve body.
There is a company making a bypass to delete the wax ford pellet that can fail with a spring type that you see on the very reliable SETRAUB oil filter sandwich plates. It looks like you can pull the ford piece out and just fit in the sprung
T-bypass or maybe leave the bypass out all together?
This is the inside of the 10R80 with valvebody removed. I think the green arrow is where the T-bypass is located because it looks like the 6R bypass location. Perhaps this is an easy removal or the 6R bypass above can fit. The removal of the valve body does not look too difficult or risky?
There is this T-bypass for 10R80 F150's and mustangs it says? But the block think looks more like the blocks that used to be placed outside the transmissions in the old days. I don't see there this block can go? I will have to call the company for clarification on exactly what they are selling.
This is all I know right now. I would be glad to see some others contribute. My pee brain says that if the 10R80 stock bypass reliably opens at 190F and a big cooler is attached keeping tans temps to somewhere like a coolant radiator 205-225F I see no reason remove the bypass. That seems to be a perfectly operational temperature. If the 10R lasts longer performs better at 190F max then I see a reason to delete the bypass. If the mercon LV viscosity at 190F is the target viscosity for best 10R running them perhaps for those tacking using just plain Mercon V might be better if the 225F viscosity of mercon V is equal to the viscosity of 190F mercon LV? I have used viscosity at operational temperature when selecting motor oils and that has never failed me.
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