RustedAngel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2015
- Threads
- 12
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- 339
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- Location
- United States
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 350R HR215
- Thread starter
- #1
Got my MGW Short Throw Race Spec Shifter in last week, right on the nose of the estimated lead time of 2-3 weeks when I ordered. Sent tracking, every thing arrived well packaged, just as advertised. Build quality on the parts was top notch, it's really clear to see why they've got the reputation they do. The machining is clean, even, with perfect finishes. First impressions very very good just removing it all from the boxes and giving it a quick bench assembly to confirm everything was there.
Got around to installing it this past Saturday prior to the fight, and although I didn't have access to a lift, my buddy and I decided to tackle it on ramps in the driveway, and knocked it out in a little over 2 hours.
The install video is pretty spot on, but being it was done on an Ecoboost, while he mentioned a few differences regarding the GT, it's not until you get it on blocks that you start to really understand the notes regarding those nuances.
So here's a few things we found to help, assuming you don't have access to a lift.
-The tunnel is VERY restricting as it's very, very tight. Removing the 10mm bolt for the main support arm is nearly impossible without putting as much downward force on the driveline as you can muster. We found that instead of pulling down, having one of us under the car, and one in the car, pushing down on the driveshaft through the tunnel, was the easiest way to eek out that little bit of extra room needed to remove the bolt.
-Removing the downward facing 10mm bolt that holds in the shift linkage to the shift fork is much more readily accessed and removed by, once again, going down through the shift hole with a small, shallow, socket. The sponge presses on the bolt pretty good, and there isn't a lot of thread on that bolt - maybe a 1/4" or so, and it's right at the bolt head, so what will happen is, you'll have it unscrewed all the way, but actually have to tug it a little to get it to come out. Once it feels like it's just freely spinning - it is. Pull up and voila.
-The same methods of getting those things out, apply to putting the corresponding MGW parts back in. 10mm downward linkage bolt, go in and down from the shift tunnel to install. Then line up the transmission mounting arms on the mounting points, screw in the bolts holding them onto the shift linkage, push down on the driveshaft from the top, and get the bolt in and started. I also found it much easier to get the mounting arms on the transmission and snugged up, then use that pivot point as a leveling/centering guide to line up the linkage arm to the mounting point on the transmission, since it's a blind - feel your way around to find it - sorta spot, as opposed to feeding it up there, attaching the linkage arm, then putting the mounting arms on. YMMV.
-THE BOOT. Alright, so by blind damn luck, where I laid the boot down was right in the sun the entire time. It just so happened that it heated it up, made it more stretchy and pliable, and we were able to get it on in under 2 minutes - no lube, no stress, no injuries. So, life hack - warm that fucker up first, whether it be in the sun, in a low temp oven - whatever. I'd guess going over 100 degrees probably not very advisable, so proceed with caution. But yes, it was warm enough that all of the white film that was on it had warmed up enough that it melted and the entire boot was shiny black. Perfect dumb luck.
I got lucky and it was in perfect adjustment for the reverse lockout right out of the box, so I'm not sure if I was simply lucky, or if they've gotten it down to an art and have been able to set it perfect from the get-go, but it seems pretty straight forward.
Other than that, it was a pretty easy install. If you're taking the driveshaft out to replace it, it would be even easier, but if you're like me and doing it on ramps - get a buddy, get some good beer, watch the video, add my notes, install that beast, and enjoy a few cold ones AFTER you have yourself a nice shakedown run. Those shifts are snappy and solid now. It's amazing.
Also, we may have stumbled on the issue to notchy cold start shifts.
Fairly certain it's lazy syncros combined with the rev hang feature that really makes that shit ridiculous. The solution we've found, following the install and new, insane short shifts, is to simply pause right before the next gate, as opposed to a single throw from gear to gear.
So, more or less, instead of a single throw from say 1-2, a nice, crisp, 1-N-2 seems to eliminate that notch/thud/shudder completely. It seems that extra split second lets the syncros catch up, and voila. Right at 4K miles and stock fluid. That's what worked in my car, but again, YMMV.
And of course, here's a gratuitous victory photo.
Enjoy!
Got around to installing it this past Saturday prior to the fight, and although I didn't have access to a lift, my buddy and I decided to tackle it on ramps in the driveway, and knocked it out in a little over 2 hours.
The install video is pretty spot on, but being it was done on an Ecoboost, while he mentioned a few differences regarding the GT, it's not until you get it on blocks that you start to really understand the notes regarding those nuances.
So here's a few things we found to help, assuming you don't have access to a lift.
-The tunnel is VERY restricting as it's very, very tight. Removing the 10mm bolt for the main support arm is nearly impossible without putting as much downward force on the driveline as you can muster. We found that instead of pulling down, having one of us under the car, and one in the car, pushing down on the driveshaft through the tunnel, was the easiest way to eek out that little bit of extra room needed to remove the bolt.
-Removing the downward facing 10mm bolt that holds in the shift linkage to the shift fork is much more readily accessed and removed by, once again, going down through the shift hole with a small, shallow, socket. The sponge presses on the bolt pretty good, and there isn't a lot of thread on that bolt - maybe a 1/4" or so, and it's right at the bolt head, so what will happen is, you'll have it unscrewed all the way, but actually have to tug it a little to get it to come out. Once it feels like it's just freely spinning - it is. Pull up and voila.
-The same methods of getting those things out, apply to putting the corresponding MGW parts back in. 10mm downward linkage bolt, go in and down from the shift tunnel to install. Then line up the transmission mounting arms on the mounting points, screw in the bolts holding them onto the shift linkage, push down on the driveshaft from the top, and get the bolt in and started. I also found it much easier to get the mounting arms on the transmission and snugged up, then use that pivot point as a leveling/centering guide to line up the linkage arm to the mounting point on the transmission, since it's a blind - feel your way around to find it - sorta spot, as opposed to feeding it up there, attaching the linkage arm, then putting the mounting arms on. YMMV.
-THE BOOT. Alright, so by blind damn luck, where I laid the boot down was right in the sun the entire time. It just so happened that it heated it up, made it more stretchy and pliable, and we were able to get it on in under 2 minutes - no lube, no stress, no injuries. So, life hack - warm that fucker up first, whether it be in the sun, in a low temp oven - whatever. I'd guess going over 100 degrees probably not very advisable, so proceed with caution. But yes, it was warm enough that all of the white film that was on it had warmed up enough that it melted and the entire boot was shiny black. Perfect dumb luck.
I got lucky and it was in perfect adjustment for the reverse lockout right out of the box, so I'm not sure if I was simply lucky, or if they've gotten it down to an art and have been able to set it perfect from the get-go, but it seems pretty straight forward.
Other than that, it was a pretty easy install. If you're taking the driveshaft out to replace it, it would be even easier, but if you're like me and doing it on ramps - get a buddy, get some good beer, watch the video, add my notes, install that beast, and enjoy a few cold ones AFTER you have yourself a nice shakedown run. Those shifts are snappy and solid now. It's amazing.
Also, we may have stumbled on the issue to notchy cold start shifts.
Fairly certain it's lazy syncros combined with the rev hang feature that really makes that shit ridiculous. The solution we've found, following the install and new, insane short shifts, is to simply pause right before the next gate, as opposed to a single throw from gear to gear.
So, more or less, instead of a single throw from say 1-2, a nice, crisp, 1-N-2 seems to eliminate that notch/thud/shudder completely. It seems that extra split second lets the syncros catch up, and voila. Right at 4K miles and stock fluid. That's what worked in my car, but again, YMMV.
And of course, here's a gratuitous victory photo.
Enjoy!
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