Coincidence or ??

Strange... I feel your pain. Everything was fine on my car until I went Sai Li and new tune. From that point forward I had knock issues on both 93 and E85 with the Lund updated tune. Once I went to AED the problem was solved but I felt the same way. I was ready to go full fire sale.

ahl395 said:

That is bizarre. I would check all the power wiring to the alternator and battery, as well as the small electrical wires that plug into the alternator.

Do you have a volt meter you could put on the battery and compare voltage while the car is on and off?

Does the car still start and operate properly aside from the warning on the dash?

Click to expand...

I don't have a volt meter, I'll have to get one when I get the car back.

The car definitely isn't fine when this happens though. If driven long enough, it will finally die and then doesn't want to start. This last time, I cranked it up once and it ran for a couple of minutes. I killed it and then attempted to restart it and it didn't have enough juice to turn the starter over. It did nothing but click. So it's definitely not charging the battery.

Check your battery voltage! You said the battery voltage was 10.XX.
Normal OCV battery voltage should be very close to 12.66 VDC
If you have a shorted cell it would be 10.55 VDC.
6 cells in a battery, each cell produces 2.11 volts. A shorted cell on your battery WILL kill your generator(alternator). You would probably have drivability issues as well.
Battery health is often overlooked. Even a relativity new battery can develop a short in one cell. Continuing to throw Generators at the problem will get expensive.

Yep a shorter battery cell will wipe out a alternator quick.Just try charging the battery and then do a load tezt.

Although a load test is a good idea, I can assure you after a 20 minute charge and let the battery rest for another 20 minutes, if you don't have 12.66 volts and it is 10.XX, you have a shorted cell.
If you wanted and have help, a good load test is with the starting circuit.
Pull the fuel pump fuse, have someone hit the starter and you watch the voltage on a DMM.
The voltage should not drop below 10.25 VDC for 30 seconds of start time.
If you are 10.25 or above during the start test you have successfully load tested the battery. The battery will recover to a bit less than 12.66 VDC after a rest cycle.

All that being said, with the push button starting system, I'm not sure the starter will engage with the fuel pump fuse pulled...hummm.

Is the bearing going out on the alternator? Is it possible damper is not installed allthe way and putting a bind on the pulley? I would also check for loose connections because there was one thread on here where the guys alternator died right after pump install but the main power wire was loose. I think you need a new mechanic.

Just pop the rear seat out, takes 2 seconds, and look for what wire is cut and spliced into on the FPDM. Send me a pic if you want.

Do you have a multimeter? I'd check the battery voltage when you shut the car off an night and then again in the morning. Chances of the alternator failing are very low. I'd look at the wiring or the battery.