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This is slightly above the standard Obama set for the same time period at 54.5mpg. I pretty sure car makers were already in motion with their plans to reduce emissions significantly through electrification, hybridization, turbos, etc. IMO this changes nothing.

Good suggestion, I’ll do some research on them.

Yes they are junk. Mine lasted about 2.5 years. I will switch to an AGM next time around.

It’s roughly around 215F when I’m cruising. It definitely could be knocking, I only have access to 91 octane here on the west coast.

I live in the desert so DA goes up to 7500ft in the summer and the power loss is crazy, almost feels like I’m driving an Accord.

He was just getting his life on track too :crying:

My original engine in my '17 at it's worst was burning 1 QT per 750 miles and I could distinctly hear the piston slap get progressively louder the more miles I put on my car. A boroscope showed scoring in cylinder 8. A piston ring failed(tech could not tell me why) and I had the short block...

Clutch in, right foot on brakes, then ignition button. I did not even know you could do the reverse.

1 qt per 1,000 miles. So about 5 quarts per oil change for me

If you are going to keep the R long term then I think it makes sense to get it. That $50k amortized over 10 years is just $5k per year. That's not that bad at all for something that would bring you happiness on a daily basis. Just my perspective :like:

" Ford changed the brake pedal bracket material from nylon to polypropylene " If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I was consuming 1 QT per 2000 miles when I bought my car. At 10k miles, consumption was 1 QT per 1000 miles. My dealership said it was normal. By this time the engine was knocking loudly which they considered normal as well. At 15k miles I was consuming 1 QT per 700 miles. Ford finally did...

I think using a DCT with paddles is more fun than letting the computer do the work for you but there's just not enough driver interaction and skill involved to keep me engaged. I'm sticking with a manual.

I power wash my s550 engine bay without covering anything. I first foam everything and then from 4 feet away rinse everything down for maybe 30 seconds. At that range the force of the water is reduced a good amount. It's not a deep clean but I'm just trying to get the light grease and dirt off...

This video can probably explain which calculation to use. Look at the whiteboard calculations he's using. Wheel torque = Engine torque x gearing Gearing = 4.696 x 3.15 Engine torque = 420 ft/lbs Wheel torque = 5917 ft/lbs x (whatever ratio you want to use for transmission loss) The point of...

:clap::clap::clap: wow!