Wanted to update this thread - I ran the powerstop track day pads with fresh (cheapo) rotors for a VIR Full track day on Monday. I was much harder on the brakes than with the stock pads, but even so the pads did fantastic. This was with 30 minute sessions too. There were a couple times when the...
What's weird in this case is that the sensors worked fine and swapped back and forth with stockers just fine. Do the sensors need to be "reactivated" or something? The stock wheels/sensors sat from March-November last year and didn't need any special prodding to be re-learned when reinstalled...
Did you ever get your sensors working again? I bought a set of wheels/tires/TPMS from Paul@PKAUTODESIGN a year ago. They swapped over just fine. Put the stockers back on in November for the winter months also with no problems. Re-installed the aftermarket wheels/tires over the weekend and now...
VIR Full 3/19/18
Make/Model/engine/trans/packages: 2017 Ford Mustang GT base w/PP
Track/Course: VIR Full
Best Lap Time: 2:11.66 (via track addict / QStarz GPS)
Max speed: 149.7 (GPS)
Brakes: stock performance package calipers, cheapo Raybestos rotors, Powerstop Track Day pads
Wheels: TSW...
Just signed up for next Monday's TrackDaze @VIR. Anyone else going? TrackDaze usually puts on a fantastic event, but the VIR event last fall was overcrowded and there were some folks running in higher classes than they probably should have been. Will see how it plays out next week.
edit -...
ordered a set of the Powerstop track day pads from RockAuto along with a set of cheap raybestos rotors. I always clean my wheels within a day or two of a track day, so I'm not worried about brake dust. :D
Found on an STI forum re the Powerstop Track Day pads from a Powerstop rep. Nice specs and very reasonable price. Sounds too good to be true. :D
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Thanks for the inquiry! Powerstop Track Day brake pads are going to far exceed the HP+ in every category, wider heat range, a ton more friction...
FRPP track pack springs, shocks, sways. Tried sway bar at both soft and stiff, no difference. Alignment in rear is -2.0 camber, .22 toe in. I'm happy with the corner exit predictability and grip at speed.
Anytime the tires lose traction, so both. I don't even try launching or doing a burnout it's so bad. I made 1 drag strip pass last May and gave up due to wheel hop trying to clean the tires, hop on launch, hop on 1-2 shift. I've tried various tire pressures from 29 up to 36; no apparent...
OK, I've done spherical bearings in the RLCA and toe links, FRPP track kit (springs, shocks, sways), vertical links and even the BMR CB005 kit and the wheel hop is just about as bad as it was stock. I can't get on the gas in 1st gear or even sometimes in 2nd without the wheels hopping like...
Thanks for the feedback. I ran Hawk HP+, DTC-30 and DTC-60 over the last few years on my Focus ST with no problems. They each behaved exactly as I expected them to. What are people saying about them? (and which pad on what car for what use, since they make a bunch of different ones.)
Anyone know what the optimum and max temp range is for the stock PP pads? Thinking of changing to the Hawk Street Race pads, which have nice specs on paper and are very reasonably priced, but don't want it to be a step backward from the stock pads, which are surprisingly good. Got just a slight...
I've been using TrackMaster on my android phone(s) paired with a QStarz external GPS for track days a few years now, and it's a love-hate relationship. When it works, it's great. Unfortunately it's very finnicky, failing to auto start sometimes, sometimes shutting down/crashing mid-session, etc...
Did you road force balance the tires? I went through 8 or 9 tires on my new Focus before I had a set of 4 that were actually round.
BTW, Performance Chassis over there in Cary is a good place to check your alignment if you're looking for some place other than the dealer.
Well, a 1-pc DS is a different question from the factory vibration problem. I agree that with a 1-pc the driveline angles are not conducive for smooth operation. I also shimmed my transmission xmember to help the angles, but ultimately I had to tweak the balance at the yoke to get it perfect.
Sure looks to me like the main cause is that the pinion yoke (which is bulky/heavy) and drive shaft are not balanced as an assembly.
The DS has some balance tolerance set by the factory, with the heavy side marked with a yellow paint splot. To counter this manufacturing tolerance, the yoke is...