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http://www.stratifiedauto.com/ sending my car here for another tune when it goes back on the road

I have one of those Steeda race wings too. I looked great in the box but when it when into paint there was stress crack, declamations, chunks of the glass missing and mis-drilled holes all hidden under the primer. Long story short it cost almost as much to fix it as it did to buy it. It all fix...

ecoboost and duratec are the same bolt pattern or these guys would be selling different SBF trans adapter for each engine http://store.esslingeracing.com/cart/ecoboost__duratec_to_sbf_bellhousing_adapter-details.aspx

I have the FP borla mufflers sound really good. No rasp and deeper tone than stock but don't expect to get much power with them. Very restrictive. They neck down to about 1.25 at the end of the muffler then open up tp 3" at the tip. I think the stock mufflers flow better. Good for stock tune not...

the crappy stockers are plastic and they don't need to be oiled. The ones that have metal on metal moving parts need to be oiled unless other wise stated

most BPV and BOV need to be oiled once in a while or they can seize up

Ford/Borla touring and resonator delete. Louder than stock but It's not raspy loud. Sounds more like a modded 4L V6 than the 4banger eco. Has some drone between 2000-2300rpm

Switch over to Shell 91. Chevron 94 isn't what its cracked up to be. Who's running the dyno at Mopac these days. A few years ago they were famous for popping motor

mine does that too. It's because the lower coolant flow at idle and higher head temp from driving a few minutes before(or even idling). The coolant has more time to absorb heat from the head and will cause a spike in coolant temp until it can remove all the excess heat out and/or bring in cooler...

take your money somewhere else. Might be one of those places that only tunes those archaic carburetors things

should be covered under warranty. Mine were

Ya, probably...

I heard the 2.0L can split around the 850whp mark...if you want to go that high...

if you still have the resonator...get rid of it. I got rid of the stock 2.5 to 2.25 flex pipe as well and it's now 2.5 from the cat to a 2.5 y-pipe.... ...keep the roush exhaust

If it's just for testing it can be done other ways that don't make the pump buzz (ohmically testing and not current testing). It's a cheap controller plain and simple

AEM kit. The controller sucks balls and causes the pump buzz. Should have gone with another brand....will switch to another brand controller later using it for air charge temp control only(not tuned for it) with the small 250cc nozzle set to 6psi start and full by 15psi and a flow solenoid...

why don't you explain why would you would say that

Piston slap?

what he said It's also a PITA to get off if done correct

i did that, changed the flex pipe to a larger one and removed the resonator. It's worth it if you have a tune and want to keep the stock cat to avoid a check engine light