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Update: I went to dealer this morning. The hub nut on the front was loose, bearing and spindle were all fine. Of course, they denied the warranty claim so I had to pay for the labour. $100 for their time, so not too bad. But, I did find their reasoning for denial interesting. 1) they commented...

Yes I do wrench. How can I get access to the hub bolts? If I remove the caliper and rotor, are they accessed from the back of the hub? Any idea on the torque spec? Lug nut torque was the first thing I checked and it was fine. Just to be sure, I also removed the wheel and sure enough, the hub...

That's what I thought (four bolts). It feels like a loose hub as opposed to the bearing but who knows. I rang two dealerships today and none could get me a loan car. They want me to drive it down to them so I can go for a drive with the tech (this is despite me telling them the hub is loose)...

Well, I have already had extended wheel studs fitted so I am half expecting them to find a way to deny it. Thanks for the advice all, I'm first going to ring the shop who fitted the studs to see if they played around with the hub before I call the dealer.

Car has only done 2500 miles and I noticed a large clunk in the front left whilst turning left on the way home from work today. I got home and jacked up the front of the car...sure enough, there is loads of play in all directions when wiggling the wheel. I have read about the rear axle nut...

Checked mine today while I was doing some other work under the hood (had been meaning to check). Good thing I did...the hose was right at the end of the nipple and actually sitting on an angle as if it were about to fall off completely. No fluid from what I saw. A gentle push and I felt a click...

Not at all surprising to hear that :doh:

Burkey ring brakes direct mate. They are a DBA dealer and will probably know more than the DBA staff haha! Really good service.

As far as I know, the pan doesn't take into account the oil in the filter and oil cooler etc.

20571 is the Moroso part # http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/20571/10002/-

According to someone over on TMO, the GT350 oil pump has a larger diameter pick up than the coyote, and therefore flows more oil. However, people on TMO are running their Boss 302 cars with just a sump upgrade (+ cooling) and this has been race proven, so i'll probably go this route due to...

Why are the Voodoo guys upgrading? To run FI? I think I've settled on the Moroso oil pan for now which retains use of the Coyote pick up and pump, so going to billet in the future will be the way to go (if and when I need it).

Let us know how it goes. I drove around for about 300kms (190 miles) before aligning. I wouldn't want to go too much longer. That should be plenty of time for things to settle.

I will add; make sure you clock the bushings before you get an alignment. I was tossing up whether to bother with this as my wheel gaps looked even but very glad I did. The ride is much more compliant and quieter since doing it.

The OE spacer stays there. I did this install two weeks ago and asked Steeda about this specifically, they said it should be left in place. You should be able to thread the nut on shaft and get it torqued using a strut socket so that you can still acces the shaft to hold in in place with a 6mm...

BMR handling springs paired with Ford Racing track suspension. Wheels are 18x10 +43 Apex EC-7 with a 15mm spacer on the front.

^^^ it's a really simple mod. I did it in darkness using an iphone torch and it took about 45 minutes. A small screw driver is the easiest way to release the airbag clips. Makes the cabin feel much more premium

Finally had the chance to fit my EC-7 18x10 over the weekend. Really happy with the handling and performance improvements with just some driving through the hills. The car is much more responsive. Wheels: Apex EC-7 18x10 +43 square Tire: Yokohama Advan A050 295/35/18 Hardware: ARP studs 1...

In my case billet would be overkill as I'll never be going FI. I may fit a GT350 IM and raise the rev limit at some stage. Obviously the 350 pump is up to that task. Obviously the only purpose for the 350 pump initially would be so I can run the sump to match (which is my main priority). I do...

I'm in the process of researching oil pan upgrades in order to reduce the likelihood of oil starvation on the track. Option 1 is the GT350 composite pan but this requires the GT350 high output oil pump to be swapped in as well. How much labor is involved in the swap for a qualified shop? I...