I'm in.
Side note here. Bias plys are lighter than the radials by a bunch.
This would benefit not just the Mustang crowd, but anyone with a current
late model ride with the bigger brakes.
If the track is biting well you can raise it up a lb. at a time.
I've always had mine balanced.
Put the spurs to it and pull gears.
If this is your first time on slicks, be ready to pull the shifter cause it's coming fast.
Building the engine for that power is relatively easy.
First stop would be to a competent chassis shop that specializes in building fast door cars. They are not on every street corner.
Then you need to spend x dollars getting your NHRA driving license.
That's not cheap in it's self...
Dang...another blown Mustang in the area. I must have the only N/A one in the greater Puget Sound.
Local install, or did you do it yourself?
I'm looking for someone that can install a Circle D torque converter and dyno.
I have the JLT/Lund tune package from Beef that sure made a positive difference, wanting to add the 170* T Stat now. Been on the car for about 4 months.
CHT are usually right at 200*. No higher.
The fans are running when ever I pull into the driveway. Can't hear them while I'm driving.
No...
Base GT like my then new 85.
PS/PB. Roll up windows and no A/C or CC.
6 speed manual/10 speed auto.
The old 2.73 or 3.08 geared RE and the 10 speed would be a monster in a straight line.
Bring it in at under 3600 lbs.
I would buy it in a heartbeat.
My concern is not the primary size, but rather the choke point at the end of collector.
Look at a full 3 in. exhaust from the end of the collector back.
I have not seen a test on this subject, be can only speculate that the neck down
to 2 1/4 in. dia. cannot be good.
I bought both the Street and Comp. cat back to try on my car.
Mounted the Comp. for 3 weeks and it's too loud for my taste.
I just swapped the Street mufflers out and it's a more mellow sound.
The pipes and clamps have never been mounted just the mufflers.
Will not ship, so it's gotta be...