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I’m a 22’ GT Roush P2 on e85 with T56 Magnum. Whip made 803 rwhp and 760 torque on Dyno. Rowdy Roddy Piper. lol. Nothing like a PD blower and manual. You’ll need suspension mods and good tires with proper tires. Nitto 555 r2 and zero rear camber. Car will hook and book for real…

Not exactly sure what you’re communicating here, but I do notice a slight dip in AC performance when I cycle between the drag valve being open and closed in a short period of time. Nevertheless, that is usually short lived and the AC recovers and blows cold soon after

Absolutely not. Many factors affect Dyno numbers. If it was particularly hot and/or humid that day. Maybe the 93 octane wasn’t as good, tune, etc.

Strange indeed. I have FI Interchiller Stage 2 with Roush P2 on E85. Car made 803 rwhp and 760 rwtorque Literally, in the hottest, muggiest weather my whip does pull after pull and never once pulled timing. The confusion is probably in the “drag valve” setting whereby the Interchiller...

Not sure where you’re getting information from but FI Interchiller definitely does not negate cabin AC in any fashion

@ZZMike do you have an official ETA on these yet? Thanks!

You may consider unplugging AVID device and then plugging back in and rebooting it for the best results.

My suggestion is to go ahead and order a sleeved built bottom end. Pull your current bottom end and wait to ship it off in a couple years, then you’ll have a back up. https://rpgracingengines.com/product/rpg-2015-22-gt350-5-2l-flate-plan-crankshaft-level-3-short-block/

It’s my understanding the analog dash gauges in many of the SN197 Mustangs are no longer available to purchase or replace… If that’s true, then it goes to show every kind of part in our cars Will one day be obsolete and/or unavailable. Nevertheless, @sk47 have you considered a low mileage late...

@sk47 Just to throw this out there, YMMV, but remember this is a base model GT. @beefcake just ran a 8.8 in his 24’ GT which was similarly speced. The point being you could kop the whip and slowly build it out with high end aftermarket parts over the course of several years and then you’d have...

$48k OTD for a s650 is a steal. There is no other v8 M6 option in the world, literally, for that price. I paid $46k for a s550 300a M6 with 2500 miles and Roush P2 blower installed back in 23’ So methinks that’s a fantastic deal. Like you, I don’t like the “sight unseen” but from a business...

I know the listing says this whip is "black" but it sure looks like the shade you are looking for: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1450120189622282/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Af6752930-5108-4a59-bdba-706173df85bb There is a renown...

@RoushRacer26 I will post a video from @DRP Motorsports which will help you understand the real life potential of your kit

Yes, that’s the s650 platform. The final year for the Roush branded S3 as a production car was 2021 iirc A Roush S2 could be upgraded to a S3 by a Ford dealership. But, I could be mistaken

I believe Roush ceased production of the S3 officially after 2021 citing CARB emissions regulations. The S3 was only available as an after production mod thru a Ford dealership

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I found myself in a very similar situation last year. We went t56 swap because we are boosted. Arguably the best decision I’ve made with my build thus far. You will definitely need a new clutch and driveshaft. @beefcake has a kit with everything included. good luck

It is entirely possible to get sold a bill of goods by a dealership even if you’re doing your diligence to be careful to not get taken advantage of. When I bought my s550 the dealer lied about the “fine print” of my powertrain warranty. Shady people always do shady stuff and no amount of...

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