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The shaftmasters takes the shortest line to the pumpkin, the two piece has to go over then down also slip yoke.

My dealership does 15 dollar oil changes for customers, I just drop her off there when they have time. I shoot the shit with the mechanics while they work. Anything more than that and I have a local shop I trust with my car.

So, this is how we figure this shit out lol, Someone with a premium, find the USB A that is next to the cig lighter, trace the cable all the way till it end, I have money that it is plugged into a little box with 2 cables plugged into it and 1 cable going to the mini USB port that plugs into...

This thing works great, I just put one in, while they don't have the holes pre drilled you can easily add them (I did) has held up just fine to .7G turns.

I am still almost 100% sure that there is a hub back there somewhere. Someone needs to trace the wire!

Just change the as built data to 3.73s you shouldn't need anything special unless the car didn't come with the rear end option. Get This https://www.amazon.com/OHP-ELMconfig-compatible-interface-diagnostics/dp/B01F0GVBWY Follow this guide...

Your amp isn't turning off when you turn off the car. Find a different remote source. What does fuse 23 run?

Best remote IMHO is the cig lighter with the as built data modified so that it turns off 1 second after car power off. Lets you listen 100% of the time the radio is on.

Gotta get that engine braking! Use the clutch/throttle to deal with it.

As Built Data to add track mode to base GT Manual without PP and with Tesla HU 720-06-01 7C6F 0664 981B 760-02-02 0200 329F AC still turns on full blast every time you change but you can simply change the settings until someone figures out how to disable that.

Base 2016 Manual GT without performance pack activated track mode with tesla HU I verified the ABD on 2 manual GT Premums without PP below are the ABD off both and my stock settings. 2016 Premium GT non PP 720-06-01 7C6F 0664 981B 760-02-02 0200 329F 720-06-01 7C6F 0664 981B...

And to be more clear, ford has to show that your mods broke the part in question. Alternator blows due to 8k rpm, probably your fault, paint bumbles because of aluminum/steel construction.. no your fault.

I wouldn't be okay with that repair.

It hits like a mac truck (okay well for a single shallow 12 in a small box). I have it mounted to the factory shaker bolt holes (they exist even in the base cars) and it works perfectly! I have a bit of carpet out of place but that is it.

Yeah who knows, I do have to crank my HU to 30 to get a good level of sound out but it is generally pretty clean and sounds good to me. Also, live wallpapers are MURDERING my HU, this thing need mo powa and better cooling.

Here are the pinouts. Looks like it lines up with the 4 line ins, so yep.

Nay, there is 0 RCA output, those red/white RCAs seem to be audio coming from the car probably if you have a 3.5mm in the center console. I have them hooked up to aux. I use the high level input on my amp to run the sub soldered to the 2 solder pads on the rear speakers.

This is BS, I run the app completely on my unit and have 100% bass coming off the rear speakers. Now, I do have to crank the volume and the EQ really doesn't mess with it.

what a worthless policy from @LivernoisMotorsports

That amp actually has a built in LOC, the tesla unit sadly doesn't have line outs (that we have found yet). Its a P3 shallow, the box was designed for a MTX terminator 12 but that amp burned the voice coil in about 10 mins.