So before we start, engine mods are P1 Procharger Stage 2 Beefcake Special package with a Lund tune. Got a UPR procharger specific catch can installed as well as the Lund Boost+ box.
All was going well until about a month ago when I got a P0300 misfire code after a clutch install. Figured it...
Here you go mate. Last shot you can see my index finger just about fits in the gap so thats about 10mm of space.
Sorry it's not much of a solution. Hope it helps though.
Just wondering as I have the same parts but don't have the issue. Got a fair bit more room than you between my SB044 front bar and the stage 2 crank pulley. There's a recess in the sway bar bracket that holds the bushing and bolts to the frame. Gives you about 5mm of wiggle room if you pull it...
Are you using the stock endlinks or the BMR ones? I went with the BMR bar and left the endlinks stock and i've definitely got a fair bit more room. Wondering if that made a difference though i don't know if theres any difference in length between stock and the BMR pieces.
Weird! I'll see if i can get a shot of mine but i'm running the stage 2 with BMR sways and i've got way more clearance. Good half inch to an inch of space between the pulley and the bar.
Can't help there i'm afraid. I use Lund and he'd seen the U0422 code before and knew that was what was stopping the crank relearn from completing properly. I'd done it 4 times beforehand. Twice at the dealer and twice using the ngauge but wasn't until the tune update and then another crank...
Well done! The experience of finally getting any part you've been wrestling with to go back in is akin to finally having a sneeze after it's threatened for a while or taking a piss when you've been holding it in for ages.
Disbelief/Bliss/Excitement/Relief all at the same time! :D
Similar issue after a new clutch and flywheel. Was getting P0300 and U0422 (Invalid Data Received From Body Control Module). Sent the details to my tuner and he said the U4022 comes up on some 15-17 models (non-issue code) and sent back an adjustment. Sorted it out perfectly...for a bit...
Thanks. Appreciate the feedback. I presume it must be the BMR diff bushings transmitting the driveline slack through the vehicle then. Annoying as you have to cut the stock bushings out to get the BMR bushings in so i'll have to buy a new cradle to get rid of the noise.
Bumping this up. I have the stock 2 piece driveshaft (non PP) and I have the same issue. Checked all my suspension upgrades (including BK049 BMR diff bushings) yesterday and everything is torqued to spec.
But on jack stands with the hand brake off I can rotate the drive shaft and there's a...
I second that. Terry is a great guy with second to none customer service.
What also really impressed me is the way he handled some shit that was thrown his way on a Facebook group recently. Stayed cool, didn't take the bait, just put his points across based on experience to try and help the...
Those look really close. Was the pic taken when the exhaust was cold? I would expect the metal to expand when really hot so they may be touching when you're really pushing it. Just a thought. Chasing damn knock myself at the moment.
Good point you raise but i'm not sure that's the issue. I've only put 250 miles on mine so far and i've always shifted below 5,000rpm during those break in miles so don't think it could have got hot enough to glaze. Bolts were torqued as instructed too. :shrug:
francisco511 same thing happened to me with about 600whp. Clutch and flywheel looked fine apart from the ring gear coming apart. Weakness in the flywheel rather than driving habit. Poor driving and shifting habits would show up as heat spots on the flywheel/clutch plate and shredded friction...
Similar issue here from the same clutch installed last week along with the steeda clutch line but. Dealer says they did the crank re-learn then after I left I had a check engine light and P0300 code. Turned around and took it straight back then watched as they did the crank relearn again. System...
Not a whipple guy but your comments were exactly what went through my mind when I was deciding on power adder. In the end I went Procharger because it's my daily driver and like you say I put my foot in it a few times a day and always while rolling so don't need mad torque from a dig. Below 50%...