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Stay in Drive. Drag mode only shifts hard when the shifter is in drive. I think the Advancetrac mode gets reset when changing modes. So, you might want to turn off Advancetrac again if you shift from Drive to Sport mode. Sport mode shifts are soft to prevent traction loss on a road course...

The PP1 magneride does use the GT350 hubs. But, it has a unique forged iron knuckle. I 'm dying for someone to see if the GT350 aluminum knuckle fits. If it’s offset outward; It may be the best way to run a square set of wheels and tires. Cheers,

I’m going back next week. I have a HP tuners MPVI2 now and will data log the runs. I want to data log a 91 octane run and then pump in a half tank of GT260. if I can tip toe the launch to a 1.9 sixty foot; I might be able to crack the 11s. Gotta keep in mind these 401a cars weigh almost 4000...

Those are the refueling ports. These cars are designed for quick pit stops. Cheers,

I swapped out the stock 2018 PP1 wheels and tires to Forgelines with 285/35 MPS4s a month ago. It’s a magneride car and the ride is much better. The car sure feels nimble now. But, I think the improvement is all from weight reduction. Cheers,

I think you do need a tune for the car to target the best stoichiometric lamba when blending alcohol. That is why I said pump in 100 octane gasoline. I have heard that low octane fuel (California 91) will let the 2018+ GTs use up to 22 degrees of timing. That same source claims the stock...

Has anyone improved the performance of a stock 2018 GT with high octane fuel? I know the 2018 GT loves timing and the custom tuned E85 cars are picking up 50+ HP. But, has anyone gotten more HP by running their stock 2018 GT nearly out of gas and pumping in a half tank of 100 octane gasoline...

2018 GT Vehicle, Trim & Transmission: 2018 Mustang GT Premium 401A, 3.55 A10 Auto Magneride Modifications (if any): BMR CB005, 19x10” Forgeline GA1Rs, MPS4S 285/35, and Steeda rotors Best run Drag Mode in Drive. Car # 136 R/T......................................... 0.411...

The FP350S put the diff cooler in the front. American Muscle posted a video interview with a FP engineer explaining the oil cooling improvements. Cheers,

Put the shifter in Drive and disable Advancetrac by holding the traction control toggle up for ~8 seconds. Now the rear tires will smoke and hop when you go full throttle from a dig. That never felt lazy to me. My best launches are when I stall it to ~1800 RPM and slow roll the throttle...

I’m not a drifter. But, my 2018 GT A10 will spin the factory 275s through third gear. The wheel hop was terrible and I resolved that with BMR’s CB005. Still no traction; but, that shouldn’t be a problem for drifting. I’m assuming you already know how to disable traction control...

Drag mode works well when the tires aren’t hopping. I ran against a 2018 base GT auto (no drag mode) running an E85 tune. He is faster; but, I caught up a little during each drag mode shift. Also, I’m still trying to figure out why the car picked up a tenth and almost 1 MPH in worse...

The configuration sequence matters. First the shifter must be in Drive. Next select drag mode and OK that dialog box. Then hold the traction control toggle up for about 8-seconds. The Advancetrac off dialog box will appear and your done. Cheers,

I finally got the BMR CB005 installed and went back to the drag strip. The BMR did its job. No more wheel hop. I still had no traction. But, I can pedal the car now. Much more fun. The air was worse. Tonight’s DA was 1600. June’s DA was 400. I guess drag radials would put the car into...

The Steeda two piece rear rotors have the vanes open from the inside of the rotor. The stock rotors have the vanes open from the outside. The rear rotor shroud covers the Steeda vane opening. Is there any reason I shouldn’t remove the shroud? Thanks,

That’s what I was afraid of. My car sounds like the video in this thread’s first post. The OP already has his buy back done...I’m still in denial Thanks.

Has anyone who has/had the rattle; driven a similar car that didn’t have the same rattle? I’m assuming the knock is a legitimate catastrophic engine failure. My car has the 1800-2800 part throttle rattle. I’m waiting for a valve to drop... Thanks,

No. I didn’t get alignment bushings; because, I didn’t expect the unibody and cradle holes to be perfectly aligned. I think the cradle bolts will prevent movement when they are torqued. I’m definitely gonna get a 4-wheel alignment after I’m sure the cradle is square to the front end...

I want to square the cradle before paying for an alignment. Or at least verify the cradle is square. I know how to level the car on jack stands and have 4 plum-bobs. That’s how I did it for my SN95 when I installed a MM K-member. I just wanted to know the best reference points to use...

Help? How do I align the cradle? I installed the BMR CB005 and MPSS 305/35 tires. Now the passenger’s rear tire pokes out over a 1/2” more than the driver’s side. I’m looking for measuring points on the frame/cradle; so, I can square the cradle by matching the diagonals. Thanks,