I'm just wondering if a one piece would be a good idea for long term. Car has issues but I'm over 40k deep in repairs on a car worth 18 so I'll be keeping the car till it dies. It's 61k miles now if I can save up ill boost if around 100k hopefully. I figure a 1 piece reliability wise is better...
Do you think I'm fine for roughly 2 weeks/200 miles as that'll be when I have time to get under the car again, I'll probably flush off those pins or see if I can tap them out and see if the shitty screwdriver 90° angle thing I have is strong enough to run a self tapper. OR Should I just buy a...
I'm super confused, this is a heat shield. It's a thin piece of metal the blocks heat rediating off the exhaust it has no effect on anything contacting each other, driveshaft bouncing etc. it's purely for heat just like the thin heat shielding around the tunnel to stop transmission heat from...
Possibly, do you think I'm fine for the time being? I've already driven like this for a bit. I wouldn't get around to fixing it either next weekend (but prolly not since I have family over) so maybe 2 weeks, couple hundred miles?
Should I even attempt to fix this? During my thermal exhaust install i broke this piece off (yes im an idiot and used a string though it to support the midpipe of the exhaust I didn't realize it was held on by basically nothing). Should I leave it off and forget about it, open up the holes so it...
OP mustang no longer has the high temp replacements. The ones they sell now are just normal from what I can see. Also I have a normal GT not a Shelby so I have the single piston rear calipers, not the 4 piston brembo rear caliper which has easy to replace seals, one big piston with orange boot...
I'll talk to the shop that did the prior repairs. As for matchjng it'll match as well as the rest of the car for instance, the repainted the entire driver's side door but did NOT blend into the quarter to try and preserve some resale value by having 1 less repainted panel but from what I can see...
Im not sure if imgur shows lower quality images but I can see it pretty well, I'd say roughly 8in or more of the edge are starting to chip and the bottom body line has a section that's down to primer/bar metal and is yellowish along with maybe a 1/4 in or more of chipped clear coat sticking off...
Just got answer those questions, I am pretty experienced I just don't do paintwork anymore especially not paintmatching, the door is chipping not rusting. The car doesn't really have major rust issues ie normal rust for a car almost 10 years old. As for the collision shop, some idiot old lady...
While cleaning my car today after getting it back from the collision shop I noticed the passenger door has a large amount of chipped paint. Some through to primer/rusting and the rest looks like clearciat missing? Will this get worse and if so what are the best ways to repair it? Vinyl decal of...
First thing I did when I got the car was new fluid and I bled each brake until pretty clean fluid came out. It was never going to be 100% clean and fluid is pricey
They slide in out with no resistance. Not seized at all. And the piston twisted in just fine so also not seized. I can't thing if any reason why one side would wear so much more than the other since if the piston was stuck pushing out both sides should be pressed against the rotor equally. Not 1...
What do you use for the brake line to stop it from leaking? I'm thinking I'll blast sand the spots where it's dinged and the metal is pushed up (maybe tap it flat with a hammer slightly but probably just sand it) and then blast it. Should I blast the inside or just do the outsides and same with...
Hi, I sent a pm to Benny but just Incase he doesent see it (not sure if it gives notifications I've never used the pm feature here). I'm looking for discounts on
15-17 rear brake caliper
Fr3z-2552-H and fr3z-2553-H
And if possible can you guys confirm if those are the newest part numbers and...
Quick question again, did you end up ripping out the seals fully or just left them as is torn up etc and I see you mentioned you carried extra seals, do you know the process of taking apart the caliper to replace those dust boots, I can't find any videos or anything online. I'm debating just...
Should I just replace the line that has the rubber price with a pin that solid metal there? The rubber is only there for vibrations. How much will red paint fuck up the blue I plan to paint the calipers? I know the base layer bleeds through and affects the color a tiny bit. And would I just...
By rings do you mean the rubber piece? At the end of 1 slide pin? 1 pin is completely smooth the other has the rubber piece. Also will the powder coat hold up to being paint over? Will I have to strip it off?