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I've talked to JB weld reps and they are the ones who informed us that their product cannot handle heat. We still tried it at work with proper prep, bare metal etched. Ready for powder coat and paint we tried them.bith ways, both times the job weld bubbled up and cause defects and failures...

It's not a flood car. Just typical New York rust.

It will definitely be corrosion protection, I drive it year round but never have many issues with that in Pennsylvania. But the car came from New York which has terrible rust. I have a 1/2 thick like of rust chips under each wheel from hammering off the old rotors. Hell I have brand new rims...

Rotors haven't been turned I checked the pad on the side that's thinner is definitely worn down more as well. I just tossed new rotors and pads on. But I'm thinking of getting new rear calipers to resolve any potential issues +my dust boots are torn.

I saw that response and replied to it but I don't want to use JB weld on an aluminum caliper. JB weld does not hold up to heat very well and will cause the new paint to flake off. We tried it on aluminum doors at work before and the job weld was paper thin just like filling the caliper dings and...

Okay so I came across powerstop S15028 It specifically claims to have high heat dust seals. They appear to be around 280$ shipped vs 350ish for OEM. Is powerstop calipers equal to, worse or better than OEM? Bonus is they also come with new brackets and slide pins, downside is they are powder...

I'm still going to have to blast the brackets. New calipers don't come with brackets. I got new slide pins dust boots and the end rubber prices but the OEM rubber pieces are still in good condition so I'll leave them on for now and just flood the shit out of the boots with lube after I use brake...

Did the one photo of the pads not upload? It should be there showing the 2 pads that correspond to the messed up rotor. I heard that there's new part numbers for the calipers FR3Z-2553-H FR3Z-2552-H And that they supposedly have better dust boots but they are still orange so I'm not sure, can...

I don't track my car but I drive very hard on the street. The one with the big tear in the boot wore down the rotor on 1 side significantly more than the other (check out my recent post for photos). Pistons compressed fine and the slide pins move by hand pretty freely they aren't pushing the...

As you can tell something is obviously wrong. One side of the rotor is thinner than the other and the pads are torn up. Both sides have torn dust boots as well. I can't find a single video on how to rebuild the calipers so do I try and figure it out myself or just buy new calipers 400$ after...

I definitely need to worry about it because this ain't right.

So, I would like to avoid JB weld I'm thinking of taking off the high highs with some paper and then just painting over that with g2 no primer just alot of prep with some 300 and maybe a scotch bright. If I bead blast the brembos I have to take apart the pistons and I don't want to disassemble...

Sorry about this old post being necrosed but my seals are also torn on my 2017 and I would like to know if the new pistons held up better or if I'm better of rebuilding my old ones (I was able to twist the piston back down pretty easily but for whatever reason it must have been seized at some...

2017 gt PP1. Yes it's driven year round. But it came from New York so it's even worse up there. Also I just tore a hole in the rubber boot around the rear brake piston, how hard is it to replace that or can I just leave it for awhile

I heard that if you take the apart to blast them they tend to leak when out back together unless you blast them with the pistons intact. The rears 100% need to be cleaned up the brackets will clean easily but the calipers idk. The slide pins are extremely stiff so I'm grabbing new dust boots for...

Yep, I'll probably just take off the midpipe section on one end and the other and just poke the tube through 1 side and flood the damn thing. Not sure how I'll tack it up. Ideally I'd do it under the car but I won't be able to keep the inside super clean. ill talk to my boss and see if he's got...

I weld lots of thin aluminum and stainless. I've done 0.020 aluminum and 0.015 stainless do 0.045 is light work also no I don't have a dual flow because for what we do it gets moved around to much. We have a separate regulator hooked up tons purchase tank in the middle so that it can reach each...

I'm going to try and do a rough measure today, basically see where my xpipe ends but might be hard to tell with the shitty reducer they installed. Will probably give it 3 inches in either direction. I think 2 feet 1 for each side would cover me but I don't want to order too little or have to...

If your referring to the black thing in photo 5 that goes around the inside of the caliper that is just a flexible tie I used to hang the caliper. The lines are fine (although I did melt my rear abs line a year ago but it's still been working fine lol)

The dust camp won't bother me. My cornern was if it was important since it says do not remove on it and seemed like it was stuck on there tight. Figured it held in grease or something idk, by off the car refurb what do you mean,? I can sand them pretty well on the car but if I have to I'll take...