You could try the 170 thermostat. I am in Cali and I haven't had a mid 90 day since I installed the thermostat but I had 87 degrees days. I noticed after the thermastat install it does drop the temp when moving when it wouldn't before it would just be heat soaked and only drop significantly when...
When I called PMAS and spoke to the Product Specialist to see if they offered a different heat shield or if I could purchase the older design one; He said he didn't see what the issue was with IAt's in the 150's . :eyebulge: WoW
I guess anything can happen at the track. But my friend has a stock one and when we do Friendly pulls I give myself a eye exam seeing how far I can read his rear license plates as he runs away.
Trying to hold off on the 18 manifolds until the IMRC's get worked out. I rather not lock them out. I keep hearing torque loss is negligible but I keep see people post that they get stuttering under 5k when they mash the gas. Also hoping we can get a dyno with them locked out and not locked out.
To early to tell but the Thermostat seems to be doing the trick. I got it installed lost a lot of coolant but I did use clamps and a towel to keep the mess to a minimal I knew I should have clamped both sides lol. I went to a T-ball game earlier and when I got home IAT's were 118 and CHT's were...
Grabbed the hose clamps they were cheap 7 bucks and some more coolant. Decided to install my sto n Go for my front License plate. Then I went to knock out the t-stat. Got the PMAS pulled off and got the hose clamped down in 2 min. Got ready to take off the housing and my ratchet set was to long...
Ok I will pick up a set of fluid clamps tomorrow they are only like 10 bucks. I should be able to clamp the hose before I even unbolt it right? I just need to clamp the hose that is connected to the Thermostat. How much liquid comes out the thermostat housing Because its just going to be me...
I am going to hang tuff for now see how it plays out with the intake. I probably use my dremel and open up the closed honey cones and install the thermostat. The thermostat is right under the PMAS right under the tube on a y connector? So it should be the bolts that point down to the driver side...
BeefCake told me it changed months ago few months ago. If I would have known I would have went with the JLT and paid the extra 45 bucks. Not blaming them its just I had no idea PMAS had butchered the heat shield. The plastic I am not sure if its the issue or the open face that just sit directly...
Seems like the new heat shield design with no front. I don't remember reading any complaints about the old style. It ran warmer IAT's but nothing like this new design.
Thats about what is was running today. It was 94 in cali when I got off work. it held in traffic at 120. Driving it went to 116 115. Once I hit the city it held at 124 to 126. I had to take my Mother in law so I turned the car off for about 10 min when I got back in it was 150 but once I started...
Yeah mine should be delivered on next Wednesday. I went with CJ because they had free shipping lol I am cheap. I was thinking at first because Sighlense has a performance pack and they come with bigger radiators and oil coolers but then you have the PP model 2. Thermostat should hold down the...
Corsa looks a little thin although it def looks better then the air raid, but I always hear people say the air raid has good flow for a closed box haven't heard any review on the Corsa.
lol I changed mine to that position yesterday after someone posted about the MAF being close to the radiator. I did it last night so I haven't had a chance to see if it had any affect on the temps dropping. I am at work now by the time I get off is should be mid 90's so I will take a look...
People that avg 16 mpg say on E85 they only see 12mpg on E-85. So it seem right that he would be seeing the low gas lite now. I thought the light was triggered by the amount of fuel and estimated fuel consumption not just the amount that is in the tank?
wouldn't the snorkel limit the air flow? I was thinking if you just block off the other side of the Pmas without going all the way to the fender wall the flow of air should go directly to the PMAS and should block most of the heat out? NVM I looked at and it wouldn't work