The S550 is usually the least bad of the three competing brands, on the charger/challengers its like dodge is dropping the the body onto the cradles from a plane, and where ever it lands they bolt it in.
We usually suggest while the cradle is loose to ratchet strap the both sides of the cradle...
Midwest mustangs, we may have an opportunity for you to battle it out with some mopars on the auto cross track at HMP June 10-11, we (AAD Performance) wanted to bring a racing event local to us, our buddies at modern street hemi shoot out (hemirace.com) agreed to bring an event to heartland...
Thats assuming that rear cradle is in correct alignment from the factory, which it almost never is. I do agree though, removing all cradle bolts at once is usually not the best plan of action.
For rear camber 1~1.5 degrees negative will work good for daily and some light autocross work, drag racing you’d want to be closer to zero...... maybe half a degree positive if you run drag radials
The FP toe bearing is about 0.020" wider than the stock bearing, so are the mounting ears on the FP Toe links. This 0.020" isnt really an issue. The toe link mounting ears will bend slightly when you tighten the bolts onto the factory bushing so not an issue.
TLDR: It'll work just fine without...
The weight needs to be off the wheel you are adjusting.
Also, Bankyf has the ford performance toe bearings, ill let him tell you how he was able to make our arms fit them.
We'll be doing blue again this summer, its a very popular color but not a standard color our anodizer offers so they have to schedule a whole line shut down for us to run blue.
It will be coming back, again in limited quantities
Our (AAD Performance) adjustable camber arms can get you where you need to be with room to spare. Depending on the cars set up we've been able to hit -4.5*. NO Jam nuts, no eccentrics, just easy to swap tabs built into the arm. No cheap heim joints either. We use our rebuildable patented...
The main reason for an adjustable camber link for drag in your alignment, 0* camber is very important for traction on the drag strip. Big power cars that really squat the rear end benefit from slighly positive camber between 0* and 1*
The next reason to change the arms is bushing performance...
Thanks
Thanks for giving us a shot, what’s the set up on your car? Do you daily it, drag race, auto cross? We’ve been working with a few customers (several of which are forum members) to deliver these kits with every tab needed to hit the desired camber/toe number for their intended use.
Thanks for the kind words, Enjoy that blue drag pack! if you dont mind, would you DM me your alignment specs with what tabs you end up using when you get the kit installed?
The more data we have, the better our customer service can aid customers with specific alignment and tab suggestions
I have received a couple questions about how the tab system works, we have an old video that Zach (our sales guy) made regarding tab changes on our challenger display cradle. This video should highlight how quick and easy it is to swap alignments.
All it takes is an initial alignment day at...
Haha yes, typing on my phone gets the best of me sometimes. www.aadperformance.com
David van voris should have a couple videos coming out soon on the whole set up. We are also coming up with a way to mount a go pro inside the fender somewhere to show how these arms work in action.
While the forum rules dont allow me to compare our products to other companies, I can tell you our S550 components share the same design features that put us at the top of the mopar suspension market. Our adjustment design, along with rebuild-able spheriflex that is dead quiet helps us stand out...
Correct it’s a discrete “fixed” adjustable. You use the tabs to adjust
The tabs are available from -9mm to +9mm in .5mm increments.
camber adjustments will change toe, toe will not effect camber. Set camber. Adjust toe accordingly (we also have toe links available that adjust the same way)...