Right? Going through Emporia or West Point like that would have the state trooper going over your car with a fine tooth comb looking for anything.
Incorrectly mounted plate? Ticket.
Tint darker than 50%? Ticket.
Hanging anything from the rear view mirror? Ticket.
The list goes on in Virginia.
I can probably do that next week. I have been taking measurements at different times since the install to make sure it settles properly and I can’t tell too much of a difference personally and have been waiting to take a second comparison pic.
I went with the Ford Performance Race dampers and Steeda min drop springs.
Originally, I was going to swap in GT350 non-magneride springs for a min drop, higher spring rate, and OE quality. But I was having a hard time getting either the front or back as I was told they were “discontinued”...
Dang, figured it was worth a shot.
These cars definitely like to suck power when they aren’t fully “asleep”. Even leaving it unlocked vs locked in the garage will have mine dead within a few days.
Alternatively, you could rule out the amp by just disconnecting it. Maybe this one doesn’t play...
I didn’t think swapping an LED into an HID projector mattered like it does in a reflective housing. My only experience is with printed circuit LED headlights which is one reason why I haven’t bothered.
It would just be nice if @offroadkarter would elaborate a little. If you’re gonna tout that...
I’ve been thinking about the D3S form factor LED bulb from Precision LED.
It’s a drop in upgrade, but technically not road legal.
https://precisionled.com/kepler-series-d3s-hid-to-led-conversion-kit
The Porsche folk like them...
If you click into the provided links on the article OP posted, they go more in depth. The attack I described is the old way, and it makes sense for key fobs to change over time too. This new type of attack is much more targeted, or opportunistic and specifically mentions these types of attackers...
Like Skye said, they can just boost the signal of your keyfob and steal the car without ever accessing your home.
It doesn’t even take a minute. There’s a post on the bronco6g forums ( maybe taken from Reddit, I can’t remember ) where they walked up to the front door with a device and took the...
I’ve had my set since 2022 and I think ~10,000 miles.
I will not buy them again. They were the only tire in 265/35 20 I could get in time that wasn’t $500 a tire.
I’ll probably get those kumho’s next time. Especially since the Nittos went up like $30 a tire.
Honestly, if the fluid hasn’t been changed I’d do that first like OPR says. It was a night and day difference on my 2016.
If the fluid is anything other than a clear/light yellow, change it.
Usually it’s to prevent the aftermarket spring from making noise under full compression, but it seems like an odd choice here. It’s more likely to protect it during shipping, but it’s only on the front. It doesn’t hurt anything so I was lazy and left them on.
Swapping my shocks/struts/springs for the FP Race shocks/struts and the Steeda min drop linear springs.
Rear end was easier than I was led to believe. Front wasn’t too bad, but you do need a compressor tool even with the min drop springs.
When it settles out I’ll throw up the numbers. I took...
In the middle of driving through 17 states for a roadtrip. This was taken right outside the Black Hills of South Dakota. Had some leftover pizza from the day before for breakfast at a pull-off near Custer.
Trunk pizza with a view. I’m used to swamps, not Great Plains stuff so this was all new...
Bought my 2016 used in 2017 with ~7500 miles on it. I’ve got 45,500 now. I think the 15-17 S550’s have aged better than the others. Also, that interior is baller.
I am glad I paid the extra money for the Premium package and the physical switches. I think that was the biggest difference in how...