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I’d be pointing my finger at the Lund tune. They were hot stuff years ago when I first got on this forum but I haven’t heard anything good about them the last couple years. If you want to parts cannon it check out Levittown Ford Parts, Tasca, or OE Ford Parts Giant. They’re all dealers that...

I’m gonna be honest, I’d go back to stock and start from there. Troubleshooting a tune with that many fingers in it isn’t easy.

Does it not throw a misfire code? That would be pretty odd for it not to, and if it is just swap coils and see if the code follows it. It’s a lot cheaper than buying 8 new motorcraft coils.

My $0.02 is if it’s just the sleeves that are shagged I’d grab a new short block and transfer everything over if it isn’t your daily. I don’t think I’d be comfortable with re-sleeving a modern engine with any of the shops around me. Otherwise, I’d probably test my luck at copart or something...

I have a hard enough time driving on 6 year old tires. Definitely would never drive on ones that old. If I’m storing the car and have no intention of driving it anytime soon it wouldn’t bother me. But the moment that car is about to go on the road I’d take the wheels off and have tires put on...

It wouldn’t take much to see if the isolator is there, and properly seated on both sides. In my picture it doesn’t look like the coils could contact, but when the weight of the car sits on them they squish down pretty good on the top two. I don’t believe the factory coils ever did.

What shocks did you go with? I used the ford performance race set and I got the same clunk as you. If it’s like my problem, the top coils compress enough to touch when you go over bumps in the road at speed. Crawling through the forums, it appears Steeda added this coil isolator wrap sometime...

They are heavier than you think. Ditto on removing the negative first. Just make sure you can access all four bolts first.

I don’t think there’s any real issue with timing components at that mileage. I’ve replaced a timing chain set and cam phasers on a 2005 4.6 when it had 150k on it and that made a huge difference. The coyote might be different longevity wise. The two easy ones I’d swap out are brake fluid and...

This link is pretty interesting. BC is higher than I would have expected, racelands though…..lol. I looked into KW before I went the FP/Steeda route and they do make a “cheap” coil over set for ~$1500. Then they jump up to $3,000-$4,000 for a set of what I guess is their real race setups.

I’m a real big fan of the mono tube Ford Performance race shock/strut kit. I paired them with Steeda min drop springs and while they are more firm than the factory shocks (mine is non perf pack) they aren’t anywhere near as rough when I dropped my GTI 2.5” on H&R springs and Bilstein dampers. I...

My redline ones have been installed since 2015. They’re only now starting to have trouble holding the hood up.

If you want amber sequentials I think aftermarket is your only option though. I have had decent luck with my Morimoto clears so far, but the car is admittedly, garage kept. I’ve seen their clear fail within 3 years too. The aftermarket for lights these days blows for longevity. On the Bronco6g...

I did the same thing OP did first, which still let enough water and moisture in once the dielectric grease got hot and thin enough to no longer prevent water ingress. You can see how it sits, and where the water and dirt was coming in before I did this the first time. Just putting a thin film...

Yep. The connector is filled with it. The connector is at an upwards facing angle so water just collects inside. Haven’t had a single issue since.

Gotcha. My bad. I’m an old man that’s not used to them making anything other than their one product.

I know WD-40 is a water displacer, but I’d give it a go with actual connector cleaner. With the WD-40 it probably didn’t get dry enough.

These numbers are crazy! I thought paying the $60 for FL-500S filter and 10 quarts of Castrol Edge or Mobil 1 5w-20 full synthetic was getting pricy.

Not to doubt and whatnot, but how well did you clean it and pack it with dielectric? I had to do it just about every other year until I filled that plug to the brim. I’ve never had to replace a motor on mine as the clean and pack with dielectric fixed it every time. Albeit, it did come back...

I don’t know if it’s as advanced as the VW stuff where the BCM would tell the alternator to up the amperage as the battery aged so it would always be fully charged. Problem with that is you had to program the car to give the battery a “new” serial number to drop the charging down to original...