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So what’s the consensus on using he 350 TB with the 18mani?

I just went from no spring to steeda spring. I’ve been driving on no spring for some time now. I have to say I prefer the steeda over no spring, especially if you have an aftermarket clutch (they seem to engage much sooner than the Oem clutch, I have the Exedy Mach 600) there is a little bit of...

I will likely call ford before I go through with getting it repaired...but from what I understand corrosion is pretty much covered under the 3yr 36k warranty no matter what. I’ll let ya know what I find out. The lifetime guarantee the dealer is offering me on their repair is tempting.

The corrosion warranty is a joke....according to Ford only corrosion that creates holes is covered under the 5yr unlimited miles warranty

Exactly haha....found the name It’s called a peltier device

Not exactly...they do have this thermal thingy which I can’t remember the name that actually is supposed to cool the seat lol

Theirs a new gt350 wheel that will fit 2015s? Or is it just the same 350 wheel as before?

Of course my 2015 they won't cover under warranty, however. The Ford body shop st the dealership I typically go to said they will warranty their work for as long as I own the car. Gotta check with the body shop I typically go to tho.

Got the car back. Exedy m600 with lightened steel flywheel is great so far. Super smooth engagement. Only thing to get used to is the very minimal travel it requires to fully engage. Also fully engages very shortly after starting to release the clutch. The remainder of travel is just empty space...

I suppose you could create a block off plate to reduce airflow over the cooler to get the street Temps up

I'm not sure how the outside and inside temp sensors are intertwined in the programming but the outside temp seems to take precedence over inside temp when determining how cold to make the air...seems a little backwards but that's what I've noticed

Did you ever take notice of what your outside Temps read? I've noticed sometimes the outside temp reads incorrectly. It'll read signicantly cooler than it is outside and the AC won't be as cold.

OK so update: No coverage under warranty but they did drop their labor charges and discounted the work. Went with exedy's flywheel and m600 clutch. So altogether I'm in for under $2400. While expensive, it's much better than what it was and with better parts. I dropped off the parts and they...

Thanks, I appreciate the input. I asked about that but they said it wouldn't of caused it. Flywheel side is the surface that experienced the failure and there was no evidence of leaks Side note of concern is they left my parts outside in the rain. I had to ask them to bring my stuff inside...

Yes from talking to customer service it seems they do allow warranty coverage of the clutch under the new car warranty. The ESP side of Ford warranty also says a clutch is covered under the 3yr 36k mile warranty. So looks like as expected I'm SOL

I think your car is defective, it's missing a pedal :shrug::D:ninja:

I will likely bump up to 5w30 as even during fun runs at an autocross, Temps would start to get up there. Overall just want to improve cooling while also keeping the oil closer to oem weights. I really wish I could get the difference temp sensor of the 2016s, also wish here were more diff...

I'm gonna go with the mishi cooler whenever I decide to do a track day

Not at all, have been driving very domestically since my return from deployment. Felt a difference in pedal feel the day it failed and that was it. No aggressive shifts what so ever (edit: actually a couple days prior I did do a couple 1-2 non domestic shifts lol, if the clutch was already weak...

Called one other dealer so far and said labor for clutch and fly wheel is about 6 and that the slave adds an additional two due to the bleeding?