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Double adjustable means rebound and compression. Triple adjustable is rebound, low speed compression, and high speed compression. Height adjustment is a given for all coilovers. Be careful with this. Roush advertises single adjustable but they are not. No rebound adjustment. Just height. So...

Different tune. ~30% less mpg. More power. EDIT: Boost loves E85. I wouldn't bother otherwise.

The car is still available. I have had some interest in it and one person was going to fly in and purchase it, but it wasn't the color he really wanted. I kind of talked him out of it. I had a local guy that wanted it too, but he pulled the trigger on a GT500 before coming to look at it...

Yes I'd be willing to do that.

Have you had an alignment done? Don't assume that the alignment is correct from the factory. Mine was not. The Factory just gets them "close enough". In fact the last 5 new cars that I have purchased required an alignment. Now I do not purchase a car without having the dealership...

Lol. I think you are the first one.

One member has ordered a 82mm pulley and is going with a Lund tune.

From another thread the answer is 2" lower is mid-stroke.

This. If the spring has preload on it with a spring perch height that provides a 2" drop, raising the perch to provide a 1" drop may add significant amount of preload. I don't know how much preload that will be with this setup. Hence my question. I had this problem on another platform...

I agree. Never said anything about changing spring rate. Spring preload plays a factor in ride quality. Too much preload makes for a terrible ride.

True, but without being able to change the length of the strut/shock you run into the same issues as just raising the spring perch.

Not sure it matters, but here's my info. I bought the Roush part number back in November. Installed in April and my tune was written by Roush in April. I flashed in my garage with RDT. Oh and my car is a manual. I know tunes created prior to mine did have some issues (CEL, etc). If...

I have Blizzak winter tires on the factory wheels for late fall/early spring. Pretty much brand new (btw: car has never been driven in snowy/salty roads).

I'm only looking to lower the car 1". How much preload will there be on the springs if I raise the perch to a 1" lowering position? I'm concerned there will be too much preload at that height and that will make for a terrible ride.

You guys can't really expect Roush to give you the calibration for their Stage 3 car. It's probably safe to say that calibration has the same flaws as the phase 1 kit cal albeit with a bit more power. Roush is not intentionally making the phase 1 have issues. Intentionally less performance...

It's the opposite. You will not have enough clearance inward and will hit the strut. You want a +40 offset or lower on a 10" in the front.

Those wheels are the wrong offset for the front. Those have an offset that fits the rear of the car. I wouldn't run a 305 on a 10" wheel, but some guys do it.

Can't help with your brake problem. Well maybe I could but you make it very difficult to read everything you write. Use punctuation so people can actually follow along with what you are trying saying. Good luck.

Ok just curious. Thanks for taking the picture. I highly recommend the threaded toe links. Steeda and BMR both offer a set. You can torque both those bolts and adjust toe similar to the front. Never have to worry about the cam adjuster slipping on you. BTW: Your alignment settings are...

Thank you for sharing. Which bolts?