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186,000 miles/sec.

That's how you remove the rear springs. Put a jack under the lower control arm remove knuckle side bolts and lower rear control arm, so it makes sense to do similar to the front. I've never done the front that way but, good idea. When I use spring compressors I alway lay a heavy moving...

Same. Lol. I told him they were both bad and that one was completely locked. Sent a single bearing. I guess I should have communicated more clearly or maybe it was just the shipping dept. I'll send it to you and you can make a set. 😆 🤣

Plain Jane. Rollcage and intercooler are probably dead giveaway.

I've changed them twice in the last couple months. I think it's easy, but it is a good amount of work. I have a lot of tools and have had my entire car apart, rebuilt the engine myself, changed the diff gears, turbos, suspension, etc, etc. So take my advice with that in mind. I put my car on...

By adjusting torque you are simply letting the spacers turn inside the ball. Not how it was designed to work. The center ball and spacers should lock together as a unit and the outer bearing race turns around the ball. The bearings I have are bad(locked up) and purchased only 3 months ago...

I'll give them one more chance. Then I'm out.

Awesome! And, BMR doesn't seem to care or want to warranty their products. I contacted them about the bad bearings and the guy emailed that he would take care of me and send a new set. That was weeks ago. Crickets. I was going to use them in another car if the issue was fixed. I'm not...

I have had both clutches and also have a BC stg 3 tranny. Currently running the RXT1200. The RST was as smooth as butter and like stock, actually better than stock. The RXT because of the pucked and more aggressive material is a little more temperamental. I can drive it smooth, but you have...

I recently rebuilt my diff(3:73 torsen) and swapped in 3:31 gears. I changed all the races, bearings and seals. I don't know how you change the crush sleeve without disassembling the entire diff. And it was a lot of work. You have to squeeze the case to get the diff out. AND... when I went...

Take the wheel off and try and tighten the nut? Wheel bearing is easy to change if you have the tools.

Gotcha. Yeah it's not like the guys with huge single turbos who pull up to the line and take 5 seconds to spool. I guess it depends on the turbo and size you have. On paper, I would guess the longer tubing and column of air you have to move would show a delay. OEM's put the turbo super close...

Haha. I have 64/66 ball bearing precisions and idk man but it's a millisecond spool depending on rpm. There is hardly any lag. I know the supercharger guys are gonna say theirs hits harder and quicker and that may be true, but what are you doing with the car? If your roll racing then you...

No. But you don't need the support bar. I was going to make a bracket that bolted to the frame rails where the front crash bar is, but once you install the upper intercooler brackets and put the charge pipes on, it is rock solid. You can pound on it with your fist and it doesn't budge.

I love the steeda k-member. It fit perfect with tons of room. I almost thought about cutting the hellion charge pipes and raising them up a little. I'm lowered on bmr springs, but don't have any issues. But I'm running 20" wheels that are slightly taller also.

Steeda FTW! Bearings are in and perfect. Easy install, they pressed in smoothly. I bolted them in and torqued to spec. I can move the RLCA with my hand. It's tight and firm, but it should be. (Also, if anyone installs these, the directions steeda has is more involved than need be. If you...

I do my own alignments too. I used garbage bags folded over a couple times and it seemed to work out well. My only issue, the alignment is perfect, but my wheel is off center slightly. I strapped it down, but not good enough. It's too much work to try and correct for now. lol Maybe next...

I worked both of them free with a long 1/2 extension in every axis. I had them pretty free I thought. I sanded down the spacers to make sure they weren't touching and re-installed. But they locked up. When I got everything apart with just the LCA attached by only the two bolts, the one side I...

Exactly. The outer race and body of the bearing will pivot around the ball that is captured between mounting points on the rear subframe. It should be a smooth bind free situation. I just picked up the steeda ones from cj pony parts because I was in the area. I will have it back together...

For your viewing pleasure... and that's with the spring still in there!