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There are only two bearing/bushings on the lca. The other factory one is a bearing with a boot over each side, at least on my PP car. Maybe you are thinking of the Ford performance toe bearing, but that's on the knuckle side. Anyhow, I already removed the bearings. Monday I will order...

Now I'm debating the cortex or just order the steeda one?

I wish I would have searched about this earlier. I recently installed 3:31 gears in my diff, so while I had everything apart I installed the bk055 bearing. I'm currently sitting here with the rear suspension apart for a 3rd time. I installed them and like other got the clicking/squeaking...

I have nitto nt555rii in 305/35-20 right now with 3:31 rear and mt82. Today I hit 13.5 lbs boost several times wot on E85, should be around low 800's. Tires stick for part of 2nd until the power shoots up at top of rpm. 3rd and up hooks good. Hard to get on it anywhere though because you end...

If you can install the turbo kit, you can do the oil pump gears. Download a factory shop manual for your car and it will give you all the directions. Everyone has mixed opinions on the oil pump gears. I think if your turbo and not holding it against a 2step, you likely don't need them. And...

I have the steeda drag racing k member, which I installed myself, and it was perfect. So much more room to work around the low mount turbos. But, I'm not sure and would be highly suspicious on how the stock subframe would contribute to knock.

Do your valve covers have all the bolts? Some have 5 not used on each side and drip a little oil sometimes. You can order bolts and drill out the unused holes.

I drive mine 5hrs to the beach. The car is N/A until you get to zero vacuum and close the blowoff valves. The turbos at cruising speed are not turning that fast.

This is the most dedicated sale for $12 I've ever seen. Lol.

I think it really depends on the type of person you are. If you can't do anything mechanical yourself, but you appreciate modded cars, then the extra cost would likely be worth it. But, If your like me, who can do pretty much anything on the car besides the shortblock, I do not see the value...

Exactly. My setup is perfect for me. I have the xforce varex 3" all the way through with mid-muffler. It's slightly rumbly with the muffler valves open and how I run it 99% of the time. But if you want stealth, close the valves and it's factory quiet. Good for early or late night in the...

Under full throttle your going to be listening to the wastegates under your feet, not the exhaust. Like a mini open header. Lol.

I'll venture that he has at least $25k without labor. That's a hell of a deal. Car is basically new.

Yeah, good point. In AZ you need all the airflow you can get! I'm not sure I'm gonna leave the ngauge in the other vent.

I simply removed the adjustable vent piece and then wrapped the eboost2 gauge with electricians tape until it fit snug in the vent. No pod needed. I blocked off the vents behind with foam I cut to fit. I did have to drill a hole in the plastic vent tuning that feeds the vent in order to run...

Yeah, I don't have that fitting either. Mine was simple T brass fitting. I use loctite 567 instead of tape.

Yeah, likely. Holding up for now. Good stick across the top. I thought about that formable aluminum stuff and tie it off. Or just replace the starter when it fails. Lol

It's all super tight. Wait until you mount the starter and realize there is about 5 sheets of paper clearance. Lol. I wrapped my starter with peal and stick heat wrap.

I chased false knock with my procharger. Only conclusion I could arrive at was that it is the internal gearset in the centri that rattles between shifts, wot, etc. Dunno. Everything else was tight that I could find.