Looks like Ford is re-branding this one but using the previous model:
https://smartercharger.com/collections/vehicle/products/ctek-mus-4-3-test-and-charge
No no, the description does indeed say that. It's just a picture of the ctek lithium charger (I have one of those for my other cars as well).
Also, I've found these chargers only last for a few years before the "mode" button on the front breaks and you have to buy another one. They work well...
I run the ctek, not the ford branded one and it works well. They have a cigarette lighter adapter that you can use to plug into the car and not have to hook it up directly to the battery.
That one linked shows the lithium battery version, which is odd since the 5.0 uses lead acid.
I think you'd have to yank it pretty hard to get it to break like that. Assuming you didn't exert excess force when unplugging it, I'd say warranty. Plea your case to the service advisor.
Did you push down on the thumb lock after you pulled the red tab out?
If so, then this sounds like it was broken at the factory and deserves a warranty claim.
The other issue is if you somehow damage the harness connector, the harness costs $200 (the same as the throttle body) as the connectors are not currently available from Ford as serviceable items.
Awesome!! Thanks for the help. This tiny little part is becoming a nightmare to source.
One mine, the pin on the throttle body didn't break - I didn't even remove the throttle body connector to install the AOS.
There is, however, a slip that secures the wiring harness to the front of the timing cover. That clip slides over one of the timing cover studs. That stupid clip...
Yup, exactly the clip that broke on me. I spent an hour on the phone with Ford. They couldn't find the part in their catalog and suggested I buy the entire engine harness to see if it's on there. $200 part...
I think that's the throttle body plug, if I remember correctly. That locking tab should be in the "out" position until you push the plug onto the socket. Then you push it in to lock it in place and prevent pressure from being applied to the thumb latch.
I actually broke the little plastic...
Per your request, attached are the best pics I could get of the diff cooler without putting the car on the lift (currently occupied by another vehicle). These are from the diff facing backwards towards the rear bumper. You can see the cooler lines and the heat exchanger just before the...
I don't know what temp the pump turns on, but running on a 90+ degree day at 9/10ths, 265 wasn't bad for the flogging it was receiving.
My diff in the Mach 1 was at 310 and climbing after 10 minutes.
The car has an appointment on 8/25, so hopefully this can get sorted quickly.
I'll get a pic for you later today. But there is not a fan on the heat exchanger. It's completely passive and relies on the car to be moving to work most effectively.
Generally these have worked really well on the GT350s.