I'm not. Can't find them anymore. And if I could I would keep it a secret!
I put 4 275/40 PS4's inside my car if I anticipate rain. Even so, I drive to the track on the set of wheels that I expect to go on track with first. Then I usually don't have to swap wheels at the track.
Any reason...
I'm with you there.
I've been running Cup2 take-offs in 305/30, 315/30, or 305/35 on 19"x11" square. Goal is at least 4 weekends. My alignment is -4deg/-2.4deg F/R camber. And I drive them to/from the track that way, lol. I will be trying ~32psi hot this weekend at NCM.
GTPās Poor Mans...
I modified the drain tube. Inside spring to prevent kinking (secured by a nail with tip ground flat). Tie wrap near adapter barb to prevent it from popping off.
GTPās Poor Mans McLaren (w/ pics, tips, & techniques)
So I can say with confidence that changing oil when the engine is warmed up drains all the oil out.
I use a Ronin drain plug and 5/8" vinyl tube to drain directly into old jugs. You can see 5 quarts in the left jug and 6 in the right jug. My system holds 10 quarts plus another quart with the...
Okay. But those of us who do track a GT PP have experienced overheating on track and the expense and time/trouble to overcome it. We don't want to make matters even worse, nigh impossible, with FI.
So I swapped back to my PP1 OEM splitter (was RTR style before). SO many screws, over 30 I think.
It is more aerodynamic. Maybe that will get me +5mph?
It was also much easier to design the end plate to fit.
Agreed.
Jack up that corner and put jack stand under the front sub-frame.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the fender liner. (Or you can try pulling the plastic rivets from the front half of the liner and pull it back. But I would remove it completely, otherwise you will be fighting it to stay out...
Hey, can you confirm that the bolt/nut set attaches the back tab of the canard to one of the open grille cells? If so, can you tell if the hole lines up to the cell?
If I put these on, I want something mechanical to assist the 3m tape. You know, for when I come off track and find the canard...
Here is what Marv at Setrab USA said in his email:
There is no need to drain your oil cooler when changing your oil. The volume of oil residing in the oil cooler is minimal. The oil passageway volume is mostly displaced with turbulator devices (devises that gently stir the oil as it passes...