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I have not installed long tube headers but did you need to remove the steering shaft? If so did you make sure the steering wheel can't turn while it was disconnected? If the steering wheel spun freely it could of damaged the clock spring. All the functions you have run through it.

I would recommend something like Spraymax 2k clear coat. It's not the cheapest but as far as rattle cans go it can give a nice top coat. I used it on a custom painted helmet.

Most of my cleaning that I need to do is just cleaning the dust off from regular driving. I'll just use the carpro reset when I wash it and one of the Si02Drying aid detailers. If I'm just cleaning the dust off from sitting in my garage is it best to just wipe it with the ceramic detailers?

What is the proper way to maintain ceramic coating? do I still use something like wizards mist and shine or a ceramic quick detailer? Or do I just rinse with water and dry? I’ve always used conventional wax a few times a year. Do I still want to wax it occasionally or does the ceramic coating...

I put the 2018+ lid and tube onto my 2015 GT. The 1/2" larger ID must help a little🤷‍♂️. It does not have an IAT port. It has a area for the MAF. You could always fab up a plate to bolt in place of the MAF and drill a hole for your IAT sensor and use a grommet with it.

I was able to use the powerstop hardware but I just had to snap it into place. I wouldn’t say it’s a defect, I would say it’s a different style we aren’t use to(Brembo). With a flat blade screwdriver and very little force it can be clipped into place.

Don’t feel to bad. I’ve been wrenching on cars for a long time but you can guess why I thought this was the issue. At least it’s a very minor issue.

If you take the lower pin out then remove the clip you can see if it’s been rubbing on the rotor.

Do you have brembo brakes? If so check the metal clips that keep the pads from vibratting. The need to actually clip onto the pins or they will scrape the outside of the rotors. I use a screwdriver under the clip to seat it into place.

If you get an aftermarket shifter like the MGW you could thread one on. For the reverse lockout you just press down.

They are these from LMR https://lmr.com/item/LRS-W55014SB/2015-Mustang-Spline-Lug-Nuts-Black

I would say flush your brake fluid and make sure you have over 50% brake pads left or more. Usually there is a tech inspection or self tech and as long as you pass that you should be good. Other then that for a first event just enjoy. Sticky tires are fun, good alignment is fun, more power is...

I figured I’d do a review on these wheels since I couldn’t find much about them. I had SVE SP2 wheels in gloss black. I really like the look of them. Since I’ve started to track my car more I decided to keep track tires on these rims and get a set for street tires. I also feel the black rims...

I still have it. I've just learned how to drive it and it's not been an issue. I do believe mine does it more if it's below 1200rpms. If yours does this up towards the 2000rpm range it may be something else. It would be worth scanning it.

Did you notice a difference in brake cooling with the new ones?

I have a MGW shifter and you push down to get it into reverse. If that’s the shifter you have it’s a great upgrade. I’m not sure if the other brands are the same.

Mine might of dropped just a little on everyday driving but probably from how I drive it. I still average 23 If I'm commuting and on road trips I've had 26.

Mines in storage so I can't look but I believe the physical gauge shows the pressure and the digital gauges in the dash only have oil temp.

Sounds like my ex-wife, an Askhole!

If the car is going to see a bit of road course use you may not want boost. With that will come a lot of heat. I had considered boost also but after a bit of research it sounds like heat may be to much of an issue. I have a 91 octane tune, catback exhaust and a 2018+ oem intake. Cheap mods and...