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Isn’t it wild that Ford doesn’t sell manifold parts?! I would shop and fab some hoses out of whatever comparable flexible rubber I could find. I don’t think they have to be chemical resistant because all of the IM hosing is for vacuum purposes. Let us know how this unravels, I had to put the...

Absolutely, my experience isn’t going to match most on the forum. I’ve used all season conti’s on econoboxes for the most part. Tire noise on a 5.0 is really a non-issue. Once you pull the resonators you can’t tell the difference :cwl:

Contiprocontacts in 205/55/16 Extreme Contact DWS06 in 225/40/18 The smaller wheel on a VW Jetta, larger on a GTI/Mazda 3. Both cars are admittedly (obviously) different than Mustangs but those tires RUMBLE lol.

Indy 500s are tolerable on my tuned GTI. My 5.0 uses Michelin PSS due to sizing issues. My experience with Continentals is that they are noisy!!

No arguing needed! The bolts works, I just hate the location LOL. +1 on double cost for special alignments. It runs me ~$150-$200 for my shop of choice to chase the numbers I bring in. I comfortably have -1.6deg on all 4 corners and 0 toe with my mods. The camber plates were the only mando...

It’s really for dialing adjustment in. Without it you’re sitting there trying to move the knuckle accurately and then trying to torque the bolt in the ugly location without letting anything move. If chasing “green” on a printout it’s fine, but if you’re chasing a specific number for whatever...

Aw man, I’ve got those AND rear camber arms. Those are a PITA to install and align with. I just use the lobed bolt and bracket in hopes that the overtorque I applied will prevent any slipping. I definitely recommend saving a few extra bucks and rolling with BMRs camber arms which can be had for...

Let us know what unravels! Some alignment work will probably help you out. If they do any subframe shifting to perfect any visual differences let me know if there’s any success. I’m gonna look for good enough in my garage and a pry bar and then send it back it in to dial it all in.

Lowering springs, I have camber plates. with aggressive offsets these things become very evident. Once I zeroed toe and got camber dialed in within .05 deg of one another everything looked better. I need to see if I can shift my front subframe a bit because there is a quarter inch difference...

Alignment and or the difference is now more evident with the more aggressive stance. i’ve got the same issue, planning on shuffling the subframe over when I get the chance before my next alignment. The visual issue might be camber and warrant some plates to correct, or toe and if you just...

horrifying, was it the mounting bushings/brackets of the gears themselves? How much did that run you? Any idea if a specific event might’ve caused this?

I’ve got parts from both, they both have some inconsistencies in coating adhesion. Looking forward to hearing Steeda’s response! Their springs are damn near mint, but the camber plates don’t look nearly as good. BMR isn’t perfect either! I have their sway bars which look a little rough near the...

Weight + price - you decide! If you drive the car it’s going to get all mangled/coating roughed up anyways. I personally wouldn’t care for coating/material longevity.

WAIT LOL, I had to reread everything. If your FP stops are premounted and shortened just leave it and send it. Don’t overthink it.

You don’t have to do anything. I’d just install and drive them and assess from there. If, and only if, you notice bump stop contact you can easily trim things up. I noticed contact with Steeda’s progressives which are like 1-1.2in drop. Everyone’s car is different and even springs have...

The general suggestion is to cut them down. But no worries, they are easily accessible and can be trimmed on car. If you feel bump-stop contact regularly you might opt to just trim the smaller notch of the factory stops off.

Too bad you can’t do this with forscan

Add thermostats to the highly debated topics in the car world. I’m tempted to slap a lower temp stat is specifically because of comments like these. Do you get any coolant temp codes? I had an old Volvo that actually gave me a “coolant temp too low” code or something that I gave up chasing...

Alternatively with just spin the bolt with impact until the splines bore the strut bolt hole out :cwl:

Holy shit this thread jinxed me. I have a 1yr old axle nut, revised thrust washer, and an ebay (go detroit axle woo) wheel hub and I got that familiar clunk while changing directions today. Going to torque axle nut when I get the free time. It’s the drivers side. Original torque was 250ft/lb.