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I'm dumb. I mixed up the alphabet soup

edit* So here are the temps at which "limp" kicks in. I can't find CHT limit, so I'm assuming it doesn't have one. The inferred temps are more conservative anyway, but CHT would likely be a little higher than EOT. Also TOT is trans oil. Also I'll add 269 is threshold for rear diff, and...

I swear I read somewhere the threshold for CHT was 270-300 or something. Did your trans overheat and cause it to go into limp mode?

Maybe I'm wrong but I was focusing on multiple things. I do remember seeing the CHT temp jump from what looked like 320 (red) to something like 280 on the digital dash gauges. The drop looked significant and it wasn't gradual. I'm assuming there was lag because wouldn't a sensor issue cause...

CHT and ECT (I corrected this because I initially wrote EOT) are displayed. The alert was coolant over-temp but I pulled the DCTs and it was all 3 over-temp. I was told the heat soak causes it after long straights and it was normal. I’m gonna add a bunch of cooling for next time and I’m going to...

At a track day at ECR, I expected heat to be an issue, but not in the way it presented... Everything seemed hot but fine. When braking (1G+) after a long straight, I would see the coolant temp jump and throw an alert. After coasting around at 50% for a few corners, it would jump back down like...

I feel attacked.

You need to install everything loosely, then tighten it up on ramps or a lift where the suspension is under load.. the links sit awkwardly if you try to tighten it with it on jack stands.

beat me to it... lol

.5 inches is definitely fine (steeda) 7/8 F - .5 R (BMR) is probably the max you would want to do.

Correct

What RPM is everyone having the Tick? 600-1700? Most people can get the tick to occur (if they have it), by cycling the AC after Idle is achieved. Also, the worst case people have mentioned is piston slap. Wouldn't that be detectable by the knock sensors? Do you know how high the RPM was...

If this is an automatic. The main difference is the shift aggressiveness with the torque converter and throttle response. Also all the active stuff (dampers, exhaust, steering) is for both auto/manual.

Is it not better to create the camber through the top of the strut vs. the lower geometry.

Sorry when I said running 1 degree I meant extra. But is the factory alignment not 0.25-1.75 (1.0+/-.75)? edit* But regardless my plan was to get the GT350R alignment or maybe a little more (.25-5.)

Yeah I've noticed, and I'm not concerned about taking them apart multiple times. I only plan on running 1 degree or less, but I'm gonna get camber plates and bumpsteer kit since I'll need it regardless.

Yeah, that stuff seems pretty clear on what I should get. I'm getting all the "stop the hop" stuff and g-trac. To be honest the car feels way easier to control than I expected (pre chassis stiffening too), but I'll see how I feel after I get more track time. It seems fairly unanimous that I...

Please send me the discount code if available and thank you!

Alright, thanks. I see the camber plates work for the b6 and not b16. I'll wait to see if I get a response from TJ. Also, the FRPP street pack is what I already have with the performance pack except it has 1"drop springs?

Are ohlins available for the 2020?