Thank you for the kind words gentlemen.Yes it is/was a royal pain in the ass,but worth it.I feel that the shortest you can keep the wiring runs the better.Cables will pick up less noise.Also the ground that is right next to the amp that I used is tyed to the rest of the audio circuit.It is up...
You need to line-hone.You only line bore when changing caps.Any reputable machine shop can do the job.Sometimes the studs make the bore slightly out of round.Most of the time it is not necessary.Have the shop check it with their dial bore gauge first.
That header system might work okay.If it keeps coming loose,I would just breadboard it and be done.
https://www.amazon.com/Busboard-PR3U-Protoboard-6H-3U-6-Hole-Stripboard/dp/B0040Z1FS2
This is what I used,as I had it laying around.I am sure you could make other boards work.Just cut off what you...
Pins with part numbers and how-to in this thread.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77679
As far as wanting it louder,it is going to need more power.I started with a JL Audio 600/6.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58862
It was good at 75 watts a channel,but needed...
Mumbles,I am not sure where that info came from.I dug out the old speakers today just to make sure.
Front and rear 6.5" are both 4 ohm.
The tweeter and the midrange are both 8 ohm wired in parallel so the amp see's a 4 ohm load from all drivers.I did not bother to photo the mid.
I am not...
Most of the cars have a 8 ohm 3.5" and a 8 ohm tweeter in parallel so the amp see's a 4 ohm load.But I do remember someone posting on here last year that they pulled a 4 or 2 ohm speaker from their doors.I can't find the pictures at the moment,but maybe you can by digging around some more.If you...
I have used the faital pro speakers from parts express with great success.
I band-passed them with a simple cap and coil to give them a range of 400hz-6000hz if I remember.
They sounded pretty good,but then I swapped out to a full Hertz Mille set.
Thanks guys.I have been drooling over this piece for a few months now.I was not going to touch the system again,but the tweaker in me can not stop.
I am hoping to achieve acceptable results with the passive crossovers still in place.If not,off with the door panels AGAIN and set it up as...
Has anyone added an aftermarket amp to a Premium and bypassed the factory amp?
YES
Is there any write ups on how to do this?
YES
Search is your friend.There are numerous threads here outlining what is involved.Most put the amp in the rear.I put it in the factory location as to keep the wiring...
After installing the JL audio 600/6 last year,I said I would never do it again.
It is pure torture working under that dashboard.But,I am not one to leave things alone.The JL amp has 75 watts per channel,and that is just barely enough for the hertz speakers.They like power!So out comes the JL and...
If your not changing the amp,then you do not need the harness.The changes to the ACM are only for aftermarket equipment,not the factory setup.Once you bypass the factory amp,the head unit will pass full range signals.The ACM only needs to be modified to eliminate the high and low roll off of the...
Digi-key has them in stock,I usually buy from mouser,but sometimes I hit digi-key if they are out of stock.You could take my idea of the breakout box and add in a set of rca jacks for you sub.
This has all the speaker wires,and the factory turn-on.;)
Here is a clean way to get rca cables from the factory harness without cutting and splicing anything.All parts are sourced from mouser electronics.
First,you need a molex 34691-0160.It has 90* pins that are longer.
You can cut off the bottom row,as we only need the long top one's.
Next ,strip...