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No problem!

Ok thanks. I never noticed the voids and wasn't about to try doing it blind from the front. Drilling holes makes sense. I may revisit this if the Steeda red rear bushings are too irritating.

Not sure how to fill voids when there are none in this style of bushing. At least none that are visible from the rear. I was thinking I was going to fix mine with urethane until I crawled under the car and noticed no place to inject it.

I just recently removed my Steeda red diff inserts off the front and upgraded the bolts. Had to leave the rear ones on because my drivers side rear bushing developed a tear around 10K. There is no repair for that except to cut it out and do a Whiteline replacement. Not something I am willing to...

They came with the bump stops preinstalled.

That's the one I would use. The Kelltrac one is also very good. I would stay away from the bushing kits. There is a considerable amount of noise and harshness transferred into the IRS subframe with them when combined with a cradle lock out kit.

If you are going to drop the diff out then I wouldn't buy either of those kits. Get the Lethal Performance kit that bolts straight through. With the diff out you can easily do the required drilling.

Oops I missed that one. This should help you out:

Thanks! I have a drawing for the board. See attachment. Note that it does not go all the way to the back wall of the trunk. I wanted a gap there to create a small storage area. The height of the supports underneath I had to experiment with and that will be determined by where you place yours...

Steeda min drop springs and the Ford track dampers/struts are a perfect pairing.

I would agree 100% :like:

Sorry for the late reply. I typed it up and forgot to post it. My main decision was based on availability and price/performance. I live in Canada and buying ANYTHING from Steeda is hugely expensive with exchange and shipping. I bought the track struts from a local performance shop that was...

Nope. This is much easier in my mind than dealing with a true ceramic coating. Every time I wash my car it's getting a fresh coating.

Ah, I see. That's good. Give the Meguiars a try. The first application you need to go heavy with it. But the subsequent applications with each wash are just a light spritzing. Water spots will be a thing of the past.

A big problem is you are washing your car in the sun. Any minerals left behind in the rinse water are immediately drying onto the paint at the outer edges of every bead. It happens fast and faster on darker colors. Find some shade or only wash at dawn or dusk. I love washing my car but I HATED...

I can offer some advice. I had to take my PP1 spoiler off because the crap tape Ford uses stopped holding it down. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/base-spoiler-lifting-from-the-ends.161580/post-3295204

I can only speak for what others have tried. Disabling the EQ was reported to work to provide a fuller spectrum of sound to all channels. Whether that could be heard exclusively as increased bass on the factory rear speakers could be debated. But those that used these rear speaker outputs to...

Try some Stoner Bug and Tar remover sprayed on a microfiber towel. It's cheap and also works great to deep clean the brown off tires.

Better off doing a flush to force out the bits. Just draining will only help remove the loose bits at the bottom of the system. There may be larger chunks caught up in cooling passages that will need some persuasion to evacuate.

Don't overtighten it when re-installing either. It's basically a piece of sheet metal formed into a nut.