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You will need jack stands to have the car off the ground. You need enough clearance to get under it so you can lower the sub frame enough to clear the spare tire tub. It has to tilt toward the read so you will need to loosen the front subframe mounts and lower it a bit then remove the rear...

Same as mine. Do just the rear pucks. The install is pretty straight forward. Getting the cradle low enough for the fronts is a huge bitch. So unless you need stronger bolts there for drag racing or hard launching, you'll be ok with the front OEM hardware.

I went with the red Steeda pucks. I put in all 4 and hated the extra noise and driveline clunking. So I removed them all and went with better front bolts with a longer thicker shaft. The bolt shaft now fills the entire hole in the diff mounting and the threads are no longer in shear. The Ford...

This won't address the higher rotations per mile a smaller wheel will have. There is only a few ways to do this right: Using a tuner or using Forscan. I changed my tire diameter by adjusting the rotations per mile with my Procal device. Forscan can do it too from what I have read.

Nope here too. Just run straight Motul DCTF.

Are these hat covers? Looks great!

Can bus only communicates that the amp is there and functioning for the audio chimes to play through. Otherwise chimes will play through the speaker built into the gauge cluster. If you scan for DTC codes there will be one listed for the missing amp but it will not cause any other fault...

That sucks. I just installed these.

When you see this, the product has been applied too thick. Damp cloth to spread it and a dry microfiber to buff it in.

This is good info. This damper will not fit into the bushing on a car not previously equipped with one. There is a protrusion on the back of the damper that fits into this square hole so it can't rotate. The bolt is also longer to accommodate the thickness of the damper.

Warranty ran out in May. 😐

Yes. The tube is discoloured but not from soot. Probably from the heat. Rod nock is what this sounds like but I only hear it when the engine is hot. That's contradicting to a conventional exhaust manifold leak. It occurs during idle after the RPMs drop as the engine temp comes up. I'll see if...

What they said. ⬆

Thanks. I was wondering how the soapy water would indicate a leak as it vaporizes. I'm going to get under it and look for the usual signs of leakage and check those bolts. I appreciate the advice. 👍

I have a 2019 301A package PP1. It's one of the best bangs for your buck. With the touch screen and Android Auto/CarPlay and ambient lighting. Skip the so called premium sound system. Its complete trash and should not even be called a sound system. Serious audio upgrades required on any of these...

Ok. Thanks. I hope to get a better look and leak test next week.

Yes, the weld is solid. I'm talking about these spots were the metal looks split.

True enough. I know as everything heats up it expands in all directions, so in theory, a crack or split should close up tighter.

Great idea guys. I'll give it a shot. Literally. Only problem is it only makes noise once really heated up. Cold engine is quiet. So it might be hard to tell if it's boiling off or blowing off.

Alright. Thank you. Looks like I may have a bad passenger side exhaust manifold. Maybe I will fix both at the same time.