In 1967 Porsche had Sportomatic where you changed gears via a floor shift in usual H pattern. A microswitch on the gearstick would activate a clutch. The set up also had a torque converter so there was no neutral as such.
Gears with two pedals.
This is what all Oz Mustangs have. I'm amazed you guys don't get this. As you say, it all comes down to Gov regs.
Our 15 - 17 cars don't have the illuminated shark gills at the side of the head lights for instance.
No, the in-cabin adjusting knob makes both lights go up and down together - no individual adjustment.
Surely the US cars have this. Ours (Australia) all have auto on / off lights and wipers, is that part of a different option for you?
My export (Australia) GT PP has headlight adjustment in the cabin.
Middle of the light switch is a small button you press and out pops the turn adjustment.
Yes, understood Brian you were referring to wider tyres. Appreciate your input and about to order the Steeda front roll center and bumpsteer correction because of you! :like:
Re camber post installation, I understand I'm aiming for -1.5 ~ -1.8. I'm hoping not to need camber plates ($495- here...
The spiral bits are where the H pipe is.
The more I drive it the more I like (? get used to) it. Loving the way it drives with the extra torque!
I’ll probably change out the rear muffs at some point but they’ll have to be tame and look basically stock from the rear. No shiny muffler bodies etc.
I would say the concern re excessive sidewall flex leading to an overheated tyre would apply to under inflated tyres, and 32 is certainly not under inflated. I wouldn’t feel comfortable with anything less and would go higher in a taller tyre.
Interesting. Tyre width a factor here?
Instructors talk about higher pressures to prevent sidewall flex and overheating the tyre.
Does the width of the tread tend to mitigate that risk?
Anything about the S550 chassis a specific factor as well?
Edit: I've gone out at lunchtime and lowered...
The Pacemaker centre pipe has an H pipe and two resonators after this.
Had a good run on the weekend and the current setup sounds mostly good especially once warmed up. Gobs of torque now - very noticeable. Very nice, refined tune.
I have noticed condensation dripping from some exhaust joints...
Very much appreciate everyone's input to this and I having been giving it a lot of thought and more research. Have read through the original Steeda post for these items and the ensuing discussion and together with the above comments, I now have a better handle on this.
I think I will do the...
Does sound good!
Maybe these are the mufflers I'm looking for to finish off my exhaust system.
I see them offered as a cat back, but can you get just the mufflers?
I had the car tuned last week after doing the Pacemaker 1 3/4" headers, 3" mid-pipe and resonators (also Pacemaker) blended to the stock rear mufflers.
How does it sound? I was naively hoping it would sound mostly stock but it's far from that. Mostly I quite like it, not too intrusive once...
I'm trying to get my head around Bump Steer and Roll Centre correction when you lower the car. I'm using the BMR min drop springs with 21mm or 7/8" drop at the front.
Am I right that Roll Centre correction is most critical and worth me installing the Steeda Extended Ball Joint front control arm...
It's been quite wet here in Adelaide and I haven't driven my somewhat 'Garage Princess', as much, but I can tell it needs less throttle input than before and wants to go. I was a bit shocked how much louder it is but each time I drive it either I'm getting used to it or the exhaust is seasoning...
I was keen to support local manufacturing and businesses for my headers and exhaust.
$790- for the Pacemaker headers, $600- for the hi-flow cats and connecting pipe, and $495- for the centre section with resonators. I also did ceramic coating for $500-. All made here in Adelaide.
You’ll see...
All finished now.
It's a axle forward system. D&T have beautifully adapted my original rear mufflers to the Pacemaker centre and headers.
And a shot of the headers. Sound tube's gone too;
Promise I'll get some sound clips up. Especially when it's tuned on the dyno in about 10 days time...
Good idea.
Dyno tune happens in two weeks, so I’ll be able to comment on OEM tune with headers.
I’ll certainly ask if Martin can do a pre-tune run. Can’t see why he couldn’t unless unsafe for the engine.