I have the SVE PP2's (19x10 and 19x11) on my 18 that's lowered on Steeda Progressives.
I was thinking indy 500's: 275 front & 325 for the rear, as I've seen this combo but I'm worried about 325's rubbing.
Anyone have any tire suggestions (similar range in price) that is 275/305? I'm not overly...
Parts came off a 2018 Mustang GT (oxford white): EMAIL Me if interested: [email protected]
- Left and Right hood scoop vents with backing supports and nuts. Perfect condition. $160 obo - still available
SOLD- Under hood insulator liner with retainer clips. SOLD
The red wire goes into the harness and the small black wire is a ground that's goes to the floor board (small phillips self tap screw). The other end of the red wire goes into the cf box. I think I can see wires on the bottom of the box too. But I didn't mess with it too much.
The car is brand...
That I'm trying to figure out too. Thought it might have been from the tow truck, but the fuel drain tune worked after getting the car towed home. Also thought it was from knocking on the lock ring so much, but we disconnected the battery before messing with anything back there.
Also I found this random box that has carbon fiber around it under the passenger side dash. Next to the fuse box. It's connected to a Add-a-circuit fuse tap, never knew manufactures used these.
Crazy that's all it was lol!
Just FYI if anyone else runs into this problem, this is how to reset it. There was no physical switch like the older cars.
It was the fucking inertia switch this whole time....my brother told me to try the relearn for it. Not sure what caused it to trip, but it starts and runs now! No leak either.
Thanks for all the help Tommy, rtg, and Kona :beer:
Pulled the cage out everything looked fine.
Put volt meter to the yellow/grey wire coming off the plug while pressing start and got nothing. Relays still click. Is there another fuse besides #49 I need to check?
Would the gauge read empty if the fuel sender wire was disconnected or a warning light or something?
Only other thing I can think of since it's most likely not the wiring... the connectors to the pump inside the cage got pulled out on accident while my buddy held the cage up lol. Do those come...
Lol yeah it's driving me crazy. It's been running for a few days before this. Yeah I tried pushing fuel hat and FPDM connectors in more, removed them and plugged them back in.
I never took the hat out completely. Only about half way out to tighten the nut while I had someone hold it up.
I'll...
When I do that it reads 0. I used the fpdm ground for the positive lead.
The pics are of the fuel pump connector that’s on the hat. Yeah I did use the yellow/grey wire off the fpdm plug to the blue wire off the Slr harness.
I also just tried reloading the tune and still same thing no prime or...
That’s from the oem fuel hat connector to the slr harness and connector.
When priming it, the pressure doesn’t move at all. Only until a minute later will the pressure slowly increase on its own maybe 1psi, car is off.
I checked voltage on the red power harness from the lug on the battery...
Is the ground for the pumps the small black wire?
I think the harness is the same as Lethals and they told me it's the correct plug but I don't know if they were filled down.
I'm picking up a new battery later today so I'll check voltage to the pumps after.
Connector and pins look straight.
The fpr gauge is sitting at 28psi right now?? It was definitely sitting around 10psi before I removed the battery from the car...it just now is going back down.
I stopped at...