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The 6.5 and the 3.5 use different wire connections. I should have taken photos, but too late now. The 3.5s were very easy to change out.

You guys that have used the Molex connectors to make a harness for the speaker wires...what gauge wire did you use? I am afraid that 18 or 16 gauge would be too big to solder to the pins.

Other than the fact that the wire is tiny brittle wire, soldering will be fine. Dont worry about the speaker adapter wires for the 3.5s. I am a total electrical dummy and I figured it out pretty easily.

Also, to those smarter than me at this sort of thing. I assume that I can unplug the male harness going into the amp, then solder the female C2470 pins 1-8 for the RCA out to my new amp. If pin 9 is what is working for the remote, then I can solder a remote wire to pin 9. Do I need to do...

So you are using the BLU/WHT (noise cancellation) wire as the remote connection?

Any yes, the 3.5's will make a huge difference. I cant say for sure that they are louder, but they are much clearer, so you wont have to jack the volume up to 22. Honestly, I think changing out the 3.5s and adding a sub to the trunk would fix the stereo for 75% of us.

Once you get the panel off, you will see that there is a speaker "plug" that connects to the 3.5" speaker bracket. That plug then feeds through the bracket, into the two wires that connect to the speaker. You will cut the two wires (black and white), splice or solder on your new connectors...

There is no bracket for the 3.5s, but a little dremel creativity will be pretty easy.

Made a way bigger difference than the 6.5's with no amp.

I read though the forums and see that people are using fuse 23 to hook up the remote wire for an amp. How in the hell do I attach a wire to fuse 23? Sorry for the dumb question.

I used Kicker KS series 3.5s. The sound is actually a pretty big difference without an amp upgrade. Be prepared to Dremel out the existing speaker bracket a little to make it fit.

I upgraded the front 3.5's, and can tell a substantial difference in the high tone clarity of the sound. I also changed out the 6.5's, but with no amp, it the low end actually sounds a little worse.

I know you're super busy, but any idea when the harness will be available for purchase for the 9 speaker system. My money is burning holes in my pocket.

Got the two front doors done. The 6.75 mid woofer doesn't sound great, but I figured it wouldn't until the amp goes in to power it. The 3.5s make a big difference in clarity and high tones. That should be the first budget change for everyone.

My apologies, I found it in your post. Sorry for the bump. I shouldn't drink and research.

Sorry for bumping such an old post, but I was hoping you could help me understand how get the A pillar comes off. Second, I did you run the power wire under the passenger seat, then under the back seat to get it to the trunk?

Ok, cool. Ill wait for OEMRadio to get his harness out. I think Ill just start with the speakers until then.

Crutchfield said this fits my 2016 with 9 speaker system. True? Is this similar to what oemradio is making? I think my cheap ass is going to bite this off on my own. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127C2RFRD1/PAC-C2R-FRD1-Wiring-Interface.html?tp=3486

I guess I'm just going to bite the bullet on it.

I think I explained my end wrong. I was quoted $200 for the amp + any wiring. $75 for each door, so $150. Thats it for the $350. If I am wiring in RCA's from the wires running into the amp, I was under the impression that I would not need an LOC.