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I thought that I read that 2 3/4" was the max depth. If you use a speaker bracket, that will keep your speaker from going that full distance in. Mine were 2 1/2" and I had no problem at all, with no bracket.

This is why I love this forum!

Well, I am more than 230lbs. I am also not good at moderate force. Lets just say, light tough is not really my thing. I also managed to rip part of the rear tint off in the process.

I dont have it tuned quite right yet. Its an Infinity Reference, so its not a super high end speaker, but it doesnt sound too harsh. I was more nervous putting those in than anything else. Having to use a Dremel to cut out the lining of the tweeter hole on the A pillar was very nerve racking...

By the way...thanks to everyone that has used this forum to pass along info. I was able to do this with the help of my brother, and know where to go to find what I need. Forums like these are invaluable in helping car owners enjoy their cars to the fullest.

I finally got it, but busted my hands up pretty good getting it done. I will not be taking them back out for any reason.

I got it all hooked up. I kept all the wiring and soldered new wiring from the post amp harness, with the exception of the rear deck speakers. Everything went back together just fine, except the hood release latch. I managed to break that somehow.

How in Gods name do you get those bolts out. Ive got my whole car torn apart, and cant seem to find anything small enough to get through to the back bolt. Any ideas?

It will be running to a new amp. The current wiring has the 3.5 and tweeter on the same channel, and since it looks like a PITA to run new wire into the door, I was hoping to use the factory wire on the tweeter. This would leave me able to wire directly into the harness. Damn this is a...

I am about to go outside and replace my tweeters. I will be adding an amp, and will run the tweeters and 3.5s to the same channel in a 2ohm load. Here is my question: If I cut the factory tweeter wire in the A pillar, and run a new set of wires down the panel towards the factory amp, does it...

I am attempting my own harnesses this weekend. If it works, Ill be hitting you up for some programming. Luckily Im in DFW, so its pretty easy.

In the sticky at the top of the page it will give you a molex part number. This is the opposite part for the harness that plugs into the amp. Solder the RCA's into the appropriate pins, then plug the new molex connector into the existing pre amp harness. You will then be left needing to run...

No need to apologize. Life doesn't wait for everyone on this board. We all hope to have your harness and programing soon, but nobody expects you to stop living life to take care of us.

It really is an easy switch over, and makes a big difference in high end clarity. If the JBL fits the factory bracket, Id go with that. Two quick splices or soldered wires, and 5 screws...thats it. Like you have read before, make sure you keep account of all the blue pieces for the door...

Awesome, thanks guys!

His suggestion is on the 9 speaker system. Based on all the people on here who have done all the research, you get the low level signal pre amp. It is still processed and will remain so unless you use a system like OEMRadio has where it reprograms the factory signal from the stereo to remove...

I was planning on using the Blue/White wire from the rear harness in the trunk, but I am wondering if that will still be available after I create the molex harnesses for the speakers.

Holy crap that looks hard. I am interested in how you used the remote relay. Which wires plugged in?

I used 6.5" Punch Prof mid woofers in the door.

I put a mid woofer in the 6.5 slot. If you are not adding an amp, I would just change to the 3.5 and leave the 6.5 stick.