The Real Cost of a Cheap Mustang - What to Expect out of Bargain High Mileage GT

[FlaminFiero]

Hello,

As S550 prices on the used private party market continue to drop, I am seeing more and more people take a dive into ownership. I wanted to create this ongoing journal type thread to document the things that needed to be done to my car, the cost, and the labor (when applicable) to keep my car going, improve it or in some cases undo others mistakes. This will either be a warning to you to stay away from used higher mileage car, or confirmation that you are indeed capable of handling the maintenance of a aging S550.

My Mustang : 2016 GT Base (with some really baffling options), 122,300 miles at time of purchase, minor body damage (door dinged fender and minor-moderate hood paint bubbling) - Rust Free Florida Car (Most important to me) $12,000 Dollars

Im breaking down my costs by;

My Cost: representing parts and tools needed to complete the job myself. (All work on this Mustang has been performed by me unless noted)
Dealer Cost: representing how much (estimated or quoted) it would run the average deal to perform the repair.

You should be able to extrapolate that the cost of a private mechanic to perform the listed repair is somewhere between the Dealer Cost and the Cost of DIY. This is simply a best and worse case scenario.


(Repair #1 : Preventative) The 5.0 GT (and the 2.3T, while not being discussed here) is a very reliable platform, and unless you get unlucky, or end up with a car that had infrequent oil changes and basic upkeep, the motor will be the least of your concern. The only thing my motor needed out of the gate was a serpentine belt to replace the cracking dried out belt. Replaced Belts and Tensioner. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $29.99 / Dealer Cost $235.00 Quoted).

(Repair #2 : Functionality) Within the first 24 Hours of ownership, I noticed the AC was occasionally non-functional. Compressor was not engaging, refrigerant pressure was good. Replaced A/C compressor Relay. Verified no damage to wiring harness or Female Pins in Fuse-box. Problem Resolved. (My Cost: $31.99 / Dealer Cost $150.00 Including Diagnostic Time Estimated)

(Repair #3 : Emergency/Breakdown) After a 200 mile drive, I noticed a whirring/squeaking sound when the clutch pedal was depressed, over the next 24 hours the sound continued to get louder and more pronounced. Diagnosed as Pilot Bearing Failure (Not Throwout Bearing). Unlike a failing Throwout Bearing, failure to replace a failing pilot bearing can result in the destruction of the transmissions input shaft, this required immediate, expensive work to allow me to continue driving. Replaced Clutch, Flywheel, Throw-Out Bearing/Slave Cylinder (OEM), and Pilot Bearing (With a Pilot Bushing) with McLeod Super Street Clutch. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $1650.00 / Dealer Cost $2750.00 Quoted). Note: dealer cost is for a OEM Clutch/Flywheel/Pilot Bearing/TOB and Labor. Note 2: My Cost includes Low Lift Transmission Jack, a essential tool I did not already own.

(Repair #4 : Functionality) Ordered a complete Sync 3 kit from FourSyncTech (Minus the Dash Panel) to replace the horrible Aftermarket Sony Unit that was installed sometime in the cars past, the installation of the aftermarket head unit, disabled the ability to use any of the media control buttons on the Steering Wheel or Dash and more importantly disabled the ability to use the Hazards, Traction Control Toggle or Steering Wheel Feel adjustment buttons. Awaiting Delivery (My Cost: $800.00 / Dealer Cost N/A)

(Repair #5: Preventative) Vibration when coming to a stop. The Rear rotors were grooved to hell and back. Replaced rotors and pads. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $105.00 / Dealer Cost: $380.00 Quoted)

(Repair #6: Emergency/Breakdown) 180 Miles from home, all the warning lights on the dash lit up. Traction Control, Air Bag, Wrench Indicator. Engine went into limp mode. Plugged in laptop and noticed the back right wheel speed sensor was indication 255 km/h while standing still. Limped home, replace wheel bearing, sensor, and removed (did not replace) thrust washer that has disintegrated and shredded the back of the wheel bearing and speed sensor. (My Cost $152.00 / Dealer Cost $350.00)


I will continue to update this list as more repairs are made. The listed costs are just for reference or discussion only, your mileage may vary.

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[FlaminFiero]

Hello,

As S550 prices on the used private party market continue to drop, I am seeing more and more people take a dive into ownership. I wanted to create this ongoing journal type thread to document the things that needed to be done to my car, the cost, and the labor (when applicable) to keep my car going, improve it or in some cases undo others mistakes. This will either be a warning to you to stay away from used higher mileage car, or confirmation that you are indeed capable of handling the maintenance of a aging S550.

My Mustang : 2016 GT Base (with some really baffling options), 122,300 miles at time of purchase, minor body damage (door dinged fender and minor-moderate hood paint bubbling) - Rust Free Florida Car (Most important to me) $12,000 Dollars

Im breaking down my costs by;

My Cost: representing parts and tools needed to complete the job myself. (All work on this Mustang has been performed by me unless noted)
Dealer Cost: representing how much (estimated or quoted) it would run the average deal to perform the repair.

You should be able to extrapolate that the cost of a private mechanic to perform the listed repair is somewhere between the Dealer Cost and the Cost of DIY. This is simply a best and worse case scenario.


(Repair #1 : Preventative) The 5.0 GT (and the 2.3T, while not being discussed here) is a very reliable platform, and unless you get unlucky, or end up with a car that had infrequent oil changes and basic upkeep, the motor will be the least of your concern. The only thing my motor needed out of the gate was a serpentine belt to replace the cracking dried out belt. Replaced Belts and Tensioner. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $29.99 / Dealer Cost $235.00 Quoted).

(Repair #2 : Functionality) Within the first 24 Hours of ownership, I noticed the AC was occasionally non-functional. Compressor was not engaging, refrigerant pressure was good. Replaced A/C compressor Relay. Verified no damage to wiring harness or Female Pins in Fuse-box. Problem Resolved. (My Cost: $31.99 / Dealer Cost $150.00 Including Diagnostic Time Estimated)

(Repair #3 : Emergency/Breakdown) After a 200 mile drive, I noticed a whirring/squeaking sound when the clutch pedal was depressed, over the next 24 hours the sound continued to get louder and more pronounced. Diagnosed as Pilot Bearing Failure (Not Throwout Bearing). Unlike a failing Throwout Bearing, failure to replace a failing pilot bearing can result in the destruction of the transmissions input shaft, this required immediate, expensive work to allow me to continue driving. Replaced Clutch, Flywheel, Throw-Out Bearing/Slave Cylinder (OEM), and Pilot Bearing (With a Pilot Bushing) with McLeod Super Street Clutch. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $1650.00 / Dealer Cost $2750.00 Quoted). Note: dealer cost is for a OEM Clutch/Flywheel/Pilot Bearing/TOB and Labor. Note 2: My Cost includes Low Lift Transmission Jack, a essential tool I did not already own.

(Repair #4 : Functionality) Ordered a complete Sync 3 kit from FourSyncTech (Minus the Dash Panel) to replace the horrible Aftermarket Sony Unit that was installed sometime in the cars past, the installation of the aftermarket head unit, disabled the ability to use any of the media control buttons on the Steering Wheel or Dash and more importantly disabled the ability to use the Hazards, Traction Control Toggle or Steering Wheel Feel adjustment buttons. Did not fix the use of my bottom row of buttons. (My Cost: $800.00 / Dealer Cost N/A)

(Repair #5: Preventative) Vibration when coming to a stop. The Rear rotors were grooved to hell and back. Replaced rotors and pads. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $105.00 / Dealer Cost: $380.00 Quoted)

(Repair #6: Functionality) Replaced Radio Bezel. With some insight from FourSyncTech, apparently my bezel had been cobbled together to have the base push buttons with the dual zone climate control, a configuration that will not work. Ordered new Bezel and installed. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $200.00 / Deal Cost : N/A)

I will continue to update this list as more repairs are made. The listed costs are just for reference or discussion only, your mileage may vary.

 

[FlaminFiero]

Updated to reflect changes after FourSyncTech Sync 3 kit install.

I cannot recommend them enough. He took time out of his day to assist with a problem completely unrelated to his kit. Customer Service like no other! If your doing a Sync 3 conversion, save yourself the headache of sourcing all the parts and programming and go to FourSyncTech.com

 

[FlaminFiero]

Updated to reflect drivers side rear wheel bearing and speed sensor failure.

 

[Gen 6 Mach1]

I would never buy a late model high mileage vehicle, to many things to go wrong . Way to complacated, most people neglect there cars not all but most . Our dailies our dumped ( even tho they're maintained better than factory recommendations.) But the wiring technology is way over the top . 5 years 7 tops , trade in and buy new , and repeat process. I don't expect people to agree, high mileage cars can be a money pit . How often do you see cars over 12 years old .

 

[FlaminFiero]

I would never buy a late model high mileage vehicle, to many things to go wrong . Way to complacated, most people neglect there cars not all but most . Our dailies our dumped ( even tho they're maintained better than factory recommendations.) But the wiring technology is way over the top . 5 years 7 tops , trade in and buy new , and repeat process. I don't expect people to agree, high mileage cars can be a money pit . How often do you see cars over 12 years old .

That's similar to the point I am trying to make with this journal. For me, a fully equipped gear head with a shop and a degree in electrical engineering, little stuff like this isn't a deal breaker for me owning a high mileage performance car. Dual Can-Bus Communications, Wiring and Mechanical failure don't really spook me as I can handle them all in house for just the price of parts. The benefit to cost ratio of paying a, lets be honest, huge premium for a low mileage GT, is significantly lower that of the layman, like you.

However, I am a highly niche case, this thread will either inspire people to take on the challenge or warn them that this life may not be for them.

Now this really only applies to specialty and performance cars, if you believe you aren't seeing commuters and SUVs that are 12+ years old, I'd highly advise you to look around more. The average passenger car in this country is 14.5 years old. Many people aren't in the financial position trade in and buy new every 5 - 7 years.

 

[Gen 6 Mach1]

Depends on the area you live . When I was in my 20s 30 s 40 s 50s I didn't have a new car ( but cars were way simpler and average car guy could work on them) now 70 I worked my rear off 56 to 60 hrs weekly to now be retired . I wouldn't even attempt to try to understand how late models cars tick . Anyway I think cars of tody are way more complicated than need be , there for more to go wrong . Cheers mate

 

[Balr14]

All of the problems I had with my 2018 GT were electronics. I did my homework on the reliability of the engine and trans, so the electronics caught me by surprise.

 

[FlaminFiero]

True, the electronics can definitely be a weird one. For the longest time I had one bar on my right taillight not working. I replaced everything, tail light, BCM-B, Wiring Harness. Still didn't work, gave up. Last week it just started working on its own. No clue.

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