FlaminFiero
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Hello,
As S550 prices on the used private party market continue to drop, I am seeing more and more people take a dive into ownership. I wanted to create this ongoing journal type thread to document the things that needed to be done to my car, the cost, and the labor (when applicable) to keep my car going, improve it or in some cases undo others mistakes. This will either be a warning to you to stay away from used higher mileage car, or confirmation that you are indeed capable of handling the maintenance of a aging S550.
My Mustang : 2016 GT Base (with some really baffling options), 122,300 miles at time of purchase, minor body damage (door dinged fender and minor-moderate hood paint bubbling) - Rust Free Florida Car (Most important to me) $12,000 Dollars
Im breaking down my costs by;
My Cost: representing parts and tools needed to complete the job myself. (All work on this Mustang has been performed by me unless noted)
Dealer Cost: representing how much (estimated or quoted) it would run the average deal to perform the repair.
You should be able to extrapolate that the cost of a private mechanic to perform the listed repair is somewhere between the Dealer Cost and the Cost of DIY. This is simply a best and worse case scenario.
(Repair #1 : Preventative) The 5.0 GT (and the 2.3T, while not being discussed here) is a very reliable platform, and unless you get unlucky, or end up with a car that had infrequent oil changes and basic upkeep, the motor will be the least of your concern. The only thing my motor needed out of the gate was a serpentine belt to replace the cracking dried out belt. Replaced Belts and Tensioner. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $29.99 / Dealer Cost $235.00 Quoted).
(Repair #2 : Functionality) Within the first 24 Hours of ownership, I noticed the AC was occasionally non-functional. Compressor was not engaging, refrigerant pressure was good. Replaced A/C compressor Relay. Verified no damage to wiring harness or Female Pins in Fuse-box. Problem Resolved. (My Cost: $31.99 / Dealer Cost $150.00 Including Diagnostic Time Estimated)
(Repair #3 : Emergency/Breakdown) After a 200 mile drive, I noticed a whirring/squeaking sound when the clutch pedal was depressed, over the next 24 hours the sound continued to get louder and more pronounced. Diagnosed as Pilot Bearing Failure (Not Throwout Bearing). Unlike a failing Throwout Bearing, failure to replace a failing pilot bearing can result in the destruction of the transmissions input shaft, this required immediate, expensive work to allow me to continue driving. Replaced Clutch, Flywheel, Throw-Out Bearing/Slave Cylinder (OEM), and Pilot Bearing (With a Pilot Bushing) with McLeod Super Street Clutch. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $1650.00 / Dealer Cost $2750.00 Quoted). Note: dealer cost is for a OEM Clutch/Flywheel/Pilot Bearing/TOB and Labor. Note 2: My Cost includes Low Lift Transmission Jack, a essential tool I did not already own.
(Repair #4 : Functionality) Ordered a complete Sync 3 kit from FourSyncTech (Minus the Dash Panel) to replace the horrible Aftermarket Sony Unit that was installed sometime in the cars past, the installation of the aftermarket head unit, disabled the ability to use any of the media control buttons on the Steering Wheel or Dash and more importantly disabled the ability to use the Hazards, Traction Control Toggle or Steering Wheel Feel adjustment buttons. Awaiting Delivery (My Cost: $800.00 / Dealer Cost N/A)
(Repair #5: Preventative) Vibration when coming to a stop. The Rear rotors were grooved to hell and back. Replaced rotors and pads. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $105.00 / Dealer Cost: $380.00 Quoted)
I will continue to update this list as more repairs are made. The listed costs are just for reference or discussion only, your mileage may vary.
As S550 prices on the used private party market continue to drop, I am seeing more and more people take a dive into ownership. I wanted to create this ongoing journal type thread to document the things that needed to be done to my car, the cost, and the labor (when applicable) to keep my car going, improve it or in some cases undo others mistakes. This will either be a warning to you to stay away from used higher mileage car, or confirmation that you are indeed capable of handling the maintenance of a aging S550.
My Mustang : 2016 GT Base (with some really baffling options), 122,300 miles at time of purchase, minor body damage (door dinged fender and minor-moderate hood paint bubbling) - Rust Free Florida Car (Most important to me) $12,000 Dollars
Im breaking down my costs by;
My Cost: representing parts and tools needed to complete the job myself. (All work on this Mustang has been performed by me unless noted)
Dealer Cost: representing how much (estimated or quoted) it would run the average deal to perform the repair.
You should be able to extrapolate that the cost of a private mechanic to perform the listed repair is somewhere between the Dealer Cost and the Cost of DIY. This is simply a best and worse case scenario.
(Repair #1 : Preventative) The 5.0 GT (and the 2.3T, while not being discussed here) is a very reliable platform, and unless you get unlucky, or end up with a car that had infrequent oil changes and basic upkeep, the motor will be the least of your concern. The only thing my motor needed out of the gate was a serpentine belt to replace the cracking dried out belt. Replaced Belts and Tensioner. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $29.99 / Dealer Cost $235.00 Quoted).
(Repair #2 : Functionality) Within the first 24 Hours of ownership, I noticed the AC was occasionally non-functional. Compressor was not engaging, refrigerant pressure was good. Replaced A/C compressor Relay. Verified no damage to wiring harness or Female Pins in Fuse-box. Problem Resolved. (My Cost: $31.99 / Dealer Cost $150.00 Including Diagnostic Time Estimated)
(Repair #3 : Emergency/Breakdown) After a 200 mile drive, I noticed a whirring/squeaking sound when the clutch pedal was depressed, over the next 24 hours the sound continued to get louder and more pronounced. Diagnosed as Pilot Bearing Failure (Not Throwout Bearing). Unlike a failing Throwout Bearing, failure to replace a failing pilot bearing can result in the destruction of the transmissions input shaft, this required immediate, expensive work to allow me to continue driving. Replaced Clutch, Flywheel, Throw-Out Bearing/Slave Cylinder (OEM), and Pilot Bearing (With a Pilot Bushing) with McLeod Super Street Clutch. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $1650.00 / Dealer Cost $2750.00 Quoted). Note: dealer cost is for a OEM Clutch/Flywheel/Pilot Bearing/TOB and Labor. Note 2: My Cost includes Low Lift Transmission Jack, a essential tool I did not already own.
(Repair #4 : Functionality) Ordered a complete Sync 3 kit from FourSyncTech (Minus the Dash Panel) to replace the horrible Aftermarket Sony Unit that was installed sometime in the cars past, the installation of the aftermarket head unit, disabled the ability to use any of the media control buttons on the Steering Wheel or Dash and more importantly disabled the ability to use the Hazards, Traction Control Toggle or Steering Wheel Feel adjustment buttons. Awaiting Delivery (My Cost: $800.00 / Dealer Cost N/A)
(Repair #5: Preventative) Vibration when coming to a stop. The Rear rotors were grooved to hell and back. Replaced rotors and pads. Problem Resolved (My Cost: $105.00 / Dealer Cost: $380.00 Quoted)
I will continue to update this list as more repairs are made. The listed costs are just for reference or discussion only, your mileage may vary.
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