What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

[samd1351]

I just installed a red start button from AM. This is the “cheap” one, not the Ford button. I think it looks just fine for less than half the cost.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/red-gt350-push-start-button-1517.html

Really, this is one of my favorite mods because I get to see it every time I get in the car. I'm just waiting to leave the office go hit that button. I might just go do it in the next few minutes!


Probably not though. Too much work.

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[Stage_3]

Latest Steeda Q850 Mustang - full Steeda suspension & Steeda power!

Beautiful car!!!!
Come man,..........give us the details on that bay boy. Suspension/HP & TQ/supporting mods.

 

[Blue Moon]

Steeda rear subframe alignment kit, the one with the big Delrin bushings, all day yesterday. Bill at CJPP says it'll take about an hour and you'll be back on the road in no time. You lied to me Bill! You LIED!

OK, to be fair, if I had a clean new car with no previous mods, a lift, and a professional set of tools, and if everything went right the first time, I can see this job being done in half an hour. But it took me 7-8 hours.

When the last Delrin bushing is stuck half in, half out, totally refusing to move at all either way, and you only have about 6 inches to swing a sledge hammer, you can put a surprising amount of force into it. Anyway, eventually it went together. But I had to disconnect the subframe braces to get the bushings in, something shifted, and now I can't quite get all the holes for the braces to line up. I think it's time for another alignment, and let the pros give it a go. All the OE parts and hardware are in and solid, just one bolt missing from each of the aftermarket subframe braces, so I feel safe to drive until then.

 

[Deleted member 35775]

did a sound test w gf in car, she likes it off as well, but I didn’t like idea of permenant it turning off, now I can toggle just like you

cost me $3 in materials. 1 dollar switch, 1 dollar wire, 1 dollar crimps from audio store down road.

took about 30 mins, my button sucks though. The white symbols smearing off. But whatever lol.

is the silver device the amplifier? i'm getting ready to have an aftermarket amp & speakers installed in my car and i'd like to be sure the installers know where the amplifier is located (assuming this is the amplifier ). thanks.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Yesterday. Changed the oil. 8 qts of 5W30 PUP and a Royal Purple filter.

While checking fluids discovered the dealer soaked the diff fill plug with red locktite the ONE time it was ever at a dealer (last January). It was bad enough they drained my BG fluid because they mistakenly thought the Torsen was broke when the rear wheels didn't turn together on a lift. Now I had to use a breaker bar to remove the 24 ft/lb filler. Picture after I wire brushed off as much of the red locktite as I could.

 

[FreePenguin]

is the silver device the amplifier? i'm getting ready to have an aftermarket amp & speakers installed in my car and i'd like to be sure the installers know where the amplifier is located (assuming this is the amplifier ). thanks.

Yep under drive side kick panel, be careful where you make the cut, or could bump into wire harness behind it, there’s openings and thick wire loom, mines kinda tight but I locked it down fine. I felt it bump a wire harnsss, I scooted it over a little w finger and made the room

half an inch over would of cleared perfectly w no effort

 

[FreePenguin]

Can’t say, I have 2 ohm 6.5’s in doors by power bass, they pound. And I have JL Stealthbox, and 2 rear jbl gto629’s

my car sounds phenomenal, using the 12 speaker amp.

I broke a clip on bottom left of door panel kick panel. Lol I used hot glue and reattached it, it’s snug. Idk how I snapped it. No biggie though.

 

[Smokey613]

Same hear. Even with the top down, my wife keeps commenting on how much better the system sounds now. If case you guys are not aware, on the ‘verts, the radio will “blank out” momentarily when you raise or lower the top. The system will make adjustments depending on if the top is up or down.

 

[randy_tho]

What wheels are those?! If they are what I think they are, I may have finally reached a decision.

MRR m600. 19x10 with 275s

 

[ArgentumS550]

Did the first oil change since buying it in May. Who knows what oil was put in there and even though the OLM was at 56%, I wanted some Molbil1 goodness in it...5w30 flavor.
Cripes I'm going to be sore tomorrow! My race ramps are about .25" high and were hitting the splitter. Just happened to have saved some .5" boards which worked, but the car pushed the ramps. Put some 12x6 pavers, 3 per side, in a line against a foundation to hold them, but the front ended up very close to a wall so I had to squeeze/contort myself to get under the car. The ramps took up too much space to go under from the side. Added extra holes in the used oil catch pan to drain the potential flood of oil I've seen and read about. Cut up a cereal box, which had to be modified, to make a splash shield for the pan.
Once everything was in place, I took out the drain plug SLOWLY and was actually able to control the flow by tilting it upwards, but still a little bit up against the oil pan hole. Didn't need to drill the holes after all. I bought the Ronin Drain Valve and got it installed after a bit. I'd forgotten which notch had to be lined up at a certain spot...even after watching the video several times. The filter I took off very slowly to let the oil drain down the side and drop into the catch pan. Once it stopped, unscrewed it the rest of the way with no spills or runs through inaccessible areas. Clean! Forgot: I'm missing the flap that covers the filter area. Gotta get one. Pre-oiled the filter and installed. Added the 10 quarts, checked everything. Started car and reset the OLM.
Missing from this is me getting up and down from under the car multiple times. Forgetting a rag, can fit this way, gotta go in from the other side, can't fit that way because of a ramp. Next time will be WAY easier, especially with the valve installed. My lifted 4Runner will still be simpler with acres of room and a Fumoto valve. All in all, I had a good morning...enjoyed it!

 

[samd1351]

MRR m600. 19x10 with 275s

Bingo!

 

[2morrow]

Been kinda MIA from the forum the past few months while life has been doing it's thing. Parts are coming in and it's going to be a busy off season.

Let's start from the top.

Added a custom touch.

Became an instructor for the SCCA a few months ago.


Ordered a very large custom part for the car. Still waiting on that...

Got this.

Organized a Dyno Day with Pearson Fuels a couple weekends ago.


Uncovered an electrical issue with the car's IMRC and resolved it. Went back to the dyno

This was on 91 pump gas, I'll go back on e85. It runs pretty healthy now. The first 2 runs were probably flukes so were realistically looking at 477-483HP/377-379TQ.
I really liked that 2nd run though lol.

These came in. Still waiting on the spacers though...

And did this to support the next phase of mods/parts.


If you like all of this you'll love the next phase... View attachment 402374 View attachment 402375 View attachment 402376

 

[VooDooDaddy]

Steeda rear subframe alignment kit, the one with the big Delrin bushings, all day yesterday. Bill at CJPP says it'll take about an hour and you'll be back on the road in no time. You lied to me Bill! You LIED!

OK, to be fair, if I had a clean new car with no previous mods, a lift, and a professional set of tools, and if everything went right the first time, I can see this job being done in half an hour. But it took me 7-8 hours.

When the last Delrin bushing is stuck half in, half out, totally refusing to move at all either way, and you only have about 6 inches to swing a sledge hammer, you can put a surprising amount of force into it. Anyway, eventually it went together. But I had to disconnect the sub-frame braces to get the bushings in, something shifted, and now I can't quite get all the holes for the braces to line up. I think it's time for another alignment, and let the pros give it a go. All the OE parts and hardware are in and solid, just one bolt missing from each of the aftermarket sub-frame braces, so I feel safe to drive until then.

I went through the same thing not long after buying my car. The "...you'll be back on the road in no time..." is complete bull$hit when it comes to installing the bushing alignment kit. When did mine, I had to start three of the four sub-frame bolts back in loosely, and the last one wouldn't line up automatically, so I had to use a huge pry bar to get the last bolt started. Once I had all the subframe bolts threaded in ever so slightly, I then went back 'n forth to each individual bolt screwing them back in a little at a time.

With the subframe bolted in from the factory, the bolts essentially "float" as they don't ride against any vertical surface, only horizontally against the subframe while holding it "up" against the body of the car. Because there is so much slop involved in the factory bolt placement, when the alignment kit is used, it leaves little to no offsest in any direction to get the bolts threaded back into their respective holes. Thus the big pry bar.

When you watch the CJPP video (many, many of them), they conveniently edit out the segments of the video that would show them using prybars, Big Phucking Hammers (BFH), and cussing like sailors. And I think its completely disingenuous for them to do that and then for Bill to say, "...you'll be back on the road in no time...".

"Back on the road in no time" My ASS...!

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