Bluemustang’s GT Road Car Build

[Bluemustang]

I'd go with the medium setting and move to forward hole on the strut while doing so. Ride is not much different than stock bar.

Should've done this the first time when I initially thought of it.

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[Bluemustang]

Put in Raybestos Element 3 pads yesterday (also did Motul RBF600 fluid swap as well). I had been getting a good amount of noise from the GLOC GS-1 street pads, which are supposed to be low noise. I picked up the Raybestos pads cheap. Was going to try to take the shims from those to put on my GS-1s because for some reason they do not come with shims (or any brake hardware for that matter). For track pads I can understand that - race car life. Even still it seems like shims would be an important thing to help block heat transfer from the pads to the caliper. Maybe I am just ignorant? The Raybestos come with multi-layered shims like OEM and also all new brake hardware. Not bad for basically 1/4 or 1/3 of the price of the GLOCs.

The noise I was getting from the GS-1s is as follows: Occasional squeal at low speeds with brake apply. But, not bad on the squeal. Chirp noise - once warmed up, chirp with every rotation of the wheel at any speeds from 0-30mph. This is annoying as crap as much as I tried to ignore it. I also felt pulsation through the brake pedal and a groan noise whenever I let off the brakes coming from a stop or trying to modulate the pedal while the car is rolling. I've taken the brakes apart several times, replaced all brake hardware and lubed everything. Did brake pad bed-in procedure. None of it did anything - even took it my mechanic to make sure I did it right and yes I did. Also, the modulation of the brakes at low speeds was very poor. It was either an abrupt stop or pulsing/groaning as I try to stop the car and/or let off in stop and go traffic.

I must also add that these GLOCs were paired with Steeda slotted rotors. It's possible that the GS-1s simply don't like the slots on the rotors. I think it's a combination of the slots not playing nice and also the lack of shims/backing plates on the GS-1.

With the Raybestos pads on - drives last night and today - zero noises of any kind. Modulation feels good and no pulsing through the brake pedal. Honestly they feel like OEM pads. Hopefully with time will reveal no noises, but so far I am really glad I put these on. I haven't pushed them hard yet, but my initial feeling is I will have no problem stopping with these pads. They have a GG friction code rating which is pretty high. Should be no problem with spirited street driving. Thus far the initial bite seems less than the GS-1 though. Nevertheless the pedal feels very good so far.

 

[Bluemustang]

Well, JLT CAI back in! Lol
All my messing around, and the one I had was superior. Feel like a doofus right about now. The CPE is a good performer, and if not for fitment issues with the TB due to the 18 manifold, I'd keep it. But the JLT is simple I've concluded and performs well.

Why did I do this you may ask. I decided to log some pulls with the Roush and the JLT to see which produced the most airflow possible. The results were disappointing.

2nd gear pulls in 61 degree weather 46-48% humidity.
Roush - 42.59 maf lb/min at 7212 rpm. 43.69 was the highest after that.
JLT - 46.76 maf lb/min at 7198 rpm. 48.21 was the highest.

Add to that the JLT feels to me noticeably stronger on the top end after swapping back to back. Used tunes mapped for the intakes, of course. And datalogged tunes also, not as if it was just a base tune with no revision.

Still have the issue of the JLT tube contacting the hood liner, but I may have to make peace with that. A 2018 JLT tube would be most ideal fitment wise but can't rationalize that at this point. I have to conclude that the JLT is one of the best CAIs you can buy, if you want maximum airflow. If more airflow=more fuel injected & burned, then I have to conclude I am giving up some ponies if I were to stick with the Roush so up FS it will go.

In addition, another unexpected result- now with the Velossa tech ram air inlet, the JLT box keeps IAT cooler while stationary vs. The Roush. The Roush box probably heats up from latent heat from the engine and then has nowhere to escape. Seeing over 50 degrees F over ambient while stationary is common occurence with this intake. The JLT not so. The Roush does drop very very quickly once on the move, but the high high idling intake temps just don't sit good with me.

If you have a 15-17 car and want a great CAI, I have a CPE that can be yours! Airflow numbers similar to the JLT. A great performer. Or if you have 15-17 or 18-19 car, this Roush I have will fit either one and look good doing so!

 

[Biggsy]

So in your CAI shootout the JLT came in first ..18+ JLT would be first theoretically. Then CPE then the Roush.

how did the CPE not fit? I see Zalek got his to fit

 

[BmacIL]

Well, JLT CAI back in! Lol
All my messing around, and the one I had was superior. Feel like a doofus right about now. The CPE is a good performer, and if not for fitment issues with the TB due to the 18 manifold, I'd keep it. But the JLT is simple I've concluded and performs well.

Why did I do this you may ask. I decided to log some pulls with the Roush and the JLT to see which produced the most airflow possible. The results were disappointing.

2nd gear pulls in 61 degree weather 46-48% humidity.
Roush - 42.59 maf lb/min at 7212 rpm. 43.69 was the highest after that.
JLT - 46.76 maf lb/min at 7198 rpm. 48.21 was the highest.

Add to that the JLT feels to me noticeably stronger on the top end after swapping back to back. Used tunes mapped for the intakes, of course. And datalogged tunes also, not as if it was just a base tune with no revision.

Still have the issue of the JLT tube contacting the hood liner, but I may have to make peace with that. A 2018 JLT tube would be most ideal fitment wise but can't rationalize that at this point. I have to conclude that the JLT is one of the best CAIs you can buy, if you want maximum airflow. If more airflow=more fuel injected & burned, then I have to conclude I am giving up some ponies if I were to stick with the Roush so up FS it will go.

In addition, another unexpected result- now with the Velossa tech ram air inlet, the JLT box keeps IAT cooler while stationary vs. The Roush. The Roush box probably heats up from latent heat from the engine and then has nowhere to escape. Seeing over 50 degrees F over ambient while stationary is common occurence with this intake. The JLT not so. The Roush does drop very very quickly once on the move, but the high high idling intake temps just don't sit good with me.

If you have a 15-17 car and want a great CAI, I have a CPE that can be yours! Airflow numbers similar to the JLT. A great performer. Or if you have 15-17 or 18-19 car, this Roush I have will fit either one and look good doing so!

Can you compare the airflow #s from 3000-5000 rpm as well?

 

[Bluemustang]

Can you compare the airflow #s from 3000-5000 rpm as well?

Let me know me take a look at the data tonight and get back to you buddy.

 

[Bluemustang]

So in your CAI shootout the JLT came in first ..18+ JLT would be first theoretically. Then CPE then the Roush.

how did the CPE not fit? I see Zalek got his to fit

IDK?! Hood hits on the intake tube. My car must have been built a little different I suppose. But it's a steel tube attached to a steel box, so there's no room to kind've push it down at the coupler ya know. I tried installing it a few times to see what I could do. The tech at CPE told me it was going to fit too and said he used it on his car (2018).

 

[Bluemustang]

So I did some things:

Picked up a set of MRR M600 19x11s ET24 and ET50. This should allow me to run 305s for the track and fit under the car without having to use extended studs/spacers.
Also, I picked up a Schroth 4 pt harness to keep my butt in the seat.

I was trying to get more camber with my MM plates and could only get -2/-2.1 and my passenger side strut is further inboard to the tower hole than the driver side. After some advice and comparing my alignment tech's notes, realized I still had the BMR camber bolts installed lol and must have adjustment off there. I think once I put the stock lower strut bolts back in, it should correct that discrepancy, and hopefully net me another few tenths of extra negative camber up front. Hopefully -2.3 or more, would make me happy. I need sufficient front camber to avoid the noticable understeer at the track and to keep the tires from wearing abnormally.

I'm also having a little sway bar geometry problem on the front. Couldn't get the angle right using the middle hole. Don't know if my end links are bent or not. Didn't notice anything abnormal with the naked eye.

Spring wish list: 305 RE-71Rs, G-LOC R8 rear pads (to pair with my R10 fronts) and adjustable sway bar links for the front, PP belly pan/splitter (for the brake cooling channels) and ZL1 splitter extension. Open to suggestions on which end links to choose.

Having driven the Indy 500s on the track, I'm interested to experience what a much stickier tire (and one more made for this purpose) will feel like. 2020 will be here before I know it.

 

[Bluemustang]

How could I forget lol

Also picked these up! BMR adjustable rear camber arms. Beautiful pieces.

 

[shogun32]

PP belly pan/splitter (for the brake cooling channels) and ZL1 splitter extension. Open to suggestions on which ones to choose.

the ZL1 splitter extension requires the PP1 undertray last I checked. I haven't installed mine yet. I'm toying with the notion of putting it on the EB.

 

[Bluemustang]

the ZL1 splitter extension requires the PP1 undertray last I checked. I haven't installed mine yet. I'm toying with the notion of putting it on the EB.

I edited my post. I meant to say sway bar end links lol. Yes am aware I need the PP undertray and splitter lip.

 

[shogun32]

If you want to fondle the Steeda ones, drop me a note.

 

[Biggsy]

I have Steeda's. Seems good to me as I dont know how much of a difference there is between the top 3: BMR, Steeda and Whiteline

 

[Bluemustang]

So I did a thing that's going to change my trajectory a little bit. I found a deal some RideTech Lvl. 2 coilovers. I love the SP083s with the Ford Performance dampers and I cannot understate that, but for the price on the RideTechs I couldn't ignore it. And while I certainly don't need it, this will give me room to grow and give me tons to play with. I also picked up BMR front end links to adjust my sway bar geometry.

Last year I had some major changes. Torsen diff and 3.55 gears, Steeda 2 pc slotted rotors with GLOC brake pads, and certainly one of the biggest, Steeda roll center correction control arms. I had my first track day and it was a blast - probably one of the most fun days I've ever had and it was a long time coming.

Looks like 2020 is going to be a fantastic year as I have some even bigger changes coming to the car and plan to do more track days to gain more experience and have more fun!

List of changes upcoming:

19x11 MRR M600 wheels - +24 and +52 offsets
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R tires - 305/30R19 (coming soon)
Schroth harness
GLOC R8 rear pads to pair with my R10 fronts
Motul RBF600 fluid
BMR front sway bar end links
BMR adjustable rear camber arms and WAK761 rear camber lockout kit
PP undertray and splitter + ZL1 splitter extension (coming soon)
RideTech Level 2 Coilovers - 400 lb. fronts, 600 lb. rears

I can scarcely imagine what the RE-71Rs are going to feel like and I'm certain this will be the biggest upgrade to car. The Indy 500s are nice tires but I'm sure they are inferior to MPSS or certainly MP4S and definitely inferior to the venerable Bridgestones. 2020 is here!

 

[Zelek]

So in your CAI shootout the JLT came in first ..18+ JLT would be first theoretically. Then CPE then the Roush.

how did the CPE not fit? I see Zalek got his to fit

In all fairness, the CP-E isn't the easiest to install. I scraped by airbox some on the side. Somehow, mine was able to fit and go to the 2018 manifold and managed to not rub on the hood either. Had I run into the same problem, I'd have switched intakes, but so far so good.

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