Best price on Koni yellows

[Hotlaprc]

Who has the best price on Koni yellows?

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[Hotlaprc]

CJ pony parts .... best deal with forum discount code

 

[wildcatgoal]

Randomly, even though they have their own dampers, Steeda had a nice discount on Koni dampers. You can get Koni from AutoAnything and regularly I get 10-20% off the entire site discount codes from them.

You might contact @SteedaTech here and inquire about their dampers, which are Koni based but with different valving for increased rebound control. Plus they aren't colored bright yellow.

 

[Hotlaprc]

Randomly, even though they have their own dampers, Steeda had a nice discount on Koni dampers. You can get Koni from AutoAnything and regularly I get 10-20% off the entire site discount codes from them.

You might contact @SteedaTech here and inquire about their dampers, which are Koni based but with different valving for increased rebound control. Plus they aren't colored bright yellow.

thanks .... already ordered them. i dont mind the Yellow. Going to pair them up with Swift springs. Anything else i may need or better yet "HAVE TO GET'" Camber bolts? Camber plates? Rear shock mounts?

 

[Norm Peterson]

Steeda rear shock mounts seem to be a popular accompanying mod.

Camber plates > "camber bolts", and I don't know how much Swift springs will lower the car or where you want the final cambers to end up at.


Norm

 

[Hotlaprc]

Steeda rear shock mounts seem to be a popular accompanying mod.

Camber plates > "camber bolts", and I don't know how much Swift springs will lower the car or where you want the final cambers to end up at.


Norm

thanks ....

Swift springs lower the car an inch

I see the difference between camber plates and bolts, but do i really need plates? Will plates move out of adjustment?

I do 1 or 2 SCCA local events and "spirited" local driving. So i would like a fairly aggressive setup that wont KILL the tires. I have 285 fronts and 305 rears

Do those rear shock mounts have any issues? i saw posts on clunking and other issues when they first came out.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Plates are considerably more reliable against losing adjustment (the forces trying to make them slip are much smaller at the top of the strut than at the knuckle), not to mention that with plates both bolts at the strut to knuckle connection get to be fully torqued. Most aftermarket "camber bolts" call for installation torques considerably lower than Ford's spec for the OE bolts, so you get one fully tightened fastener and one partially tightened fastener (possibly only a little more than half-OE tight).

Changing camber is easier with plates, partly because the wheel does not have to come off. I've seen people change camber to a more negative value at the plates in paddock for autocross and back again for the drive home.

I don't have any personal experience with those rear shock mounts, I only know that they exist.


Norm

 

[Roadway 5.0]

thanks ....

Swift springs lower the car an inch

I see the difference between camber plates and bolts, but do i really need plates? Will plates move out of adjustment?

I do 1 or 2 SCCA local events and "spirited" local driving. So i would like a fairly aggressive setup that wont KILL the tires. I have 285 fronts and 305 rears

Do those rear shock mounts have any issues? i saw posts on clunking and other issues when they first came out.

A 1" drop will land you in the -1.6 to -2.0 range which is great for an aggressive street setup (I run -2.0). Tire wear increase will be minimal, if totally non-existent, so long as you properly align your front toe settings (0 to .06 is good). Considering you do SCCA events, you may as well grab plates so you can have the option to increase camber at will. As far as the Steeda Shock mounts, I've had zero issues with noise or clunks -- just be sure to torque the top nut down and you'll be good.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Camber plates are expensive, but you'll recoup some of that money in tire wear saved. If you're just going to set it and forget it, and aren't looking for an aggressive setup then camber bolts are fine.

Check Tire Rack's prices for the Konis. The Steeda rear mounts I'd consider optional, but they seem like a nice option. Rear upper shocks mounts are really easy to change down the road.

~2.2...2.4 camber isn't too bad if you run zero front toe. Toe is the key.

 

[Pauliejr]

Where can I get a site discount code. I bought my front KONI yellows from AM. I need to purchase the rears.

 

[Hotlaprc]

Send them a private message and they will give you a code.

 

[Hotlaprc]

I want to thank everyone for their help and input .....

Meraki Autoworks for the best price on Swift springs, easy ordering and blazing fast shipping springs actually arrive the day after I ordered them!

CJ Pony parts for a great price on Yellow Koni’s. Easy to deal with just PM them for a discount code and bam. Fast shipping and clear communication.

You guys were spot on ... camber was 1.8 and then set toe to Zero. Gonna drive it abit then add camber plates. The drive is firm and not harsh. Much more stable and floaty front is gone. Plus the look is spot on with what I wanted.

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