Using Manual to My Advantage in Snow

[Mustang Convert]

This is my first manual car and winter and snow will be here before we know it.

Other than using snow/rain mode and winter tires, what are your tips on how to the manual transmission and clutch to our advantage in the snow to drive safely and not get stuck?

Sponsored

 

[blk_5.0]

just use common sense and control the throttle accordingly. Drove my 14 GT during two winters and had no issues (with snow tires)

 

[Wastedslayer]

Get used to starting in 2nd gear. Really helps to keep traction by limiting the rotational speed of the tires.

 

[SMJBA]

Get used to starting in 2nd gear. Really helps to keep traction by limiting the rotational speed of the tires.

I second that and try to shift at low rev. When slippery low rev torque is your friend. You will figure it out right away.

 

[Syracuse315]

Not manual specific, but throw two 50lb sand or salt bags in the trunk to get more weight over the rear tires.

 

[Mustang Convert]

Is it better to keep the gearing as high as possible in general?

Also, is it true to never shift in a corner or around a curve in slick conditions?

 

[bmatt]

It's probably a good idea to avoid shifting in a corner.

I think about it this way when driving in slippery conditions. The main causing of sliding and traction loss are sudden power application, sudden braking/engine braking, and then momentum. If you are at a relatively high RPM and let off the throttle your engine will be slowing your tires down faster and can induce slide. If you shift you are more likely to introduce a surge of power that can cause traction loss.

I always thought the main advantage of a manual in inclement conditions was the clutch. Being able to disconnect the engine from the transmission and allow the wheels to roll freely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Anthony 05 GT]

Definitely use snow or all season tires, slow clutch engagement.

 

[Mustang Convert]

I'm curious why starting in second is better/safer? Assuming you accelerate at the same rate of acceleration in either 1st or 2nd, why does the gearing matter? Is it just that it's tougher to put a lot of power down in a 2nd gear start?

 

[bmatt]

Yes, say the gear ratio is 4:1 for first gear and 3:1 in second gear. In first the drivetrain is rotating 4 times for each rotation of the wheel. In second the drivetrain is turning 3 times for each rotation of the wheel. When the drivetrain turns more per rotation of wheels it is easier to turn the wheel so there is some "torque multiplication." Staring in second reduces that multiplication so it's less likely to spin the wheels.

Of course the numbers are made up but that's the idea. It's kind of like when you use a breaker bar to loosen or tighten bolts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Falconetti]

Not manual specific, but throw two 50lb sand or salt bags in the trunk to get more weight over the rear tires.

what if they leak?

 

[moto111]

You put them in some sort of storage bin . And I have used bags of kitty liter or salt as well .

 

[Syracuse315]

what if they leak?

Grab a drink!

In all seriousness, I had my salt bags in there for 6 years (winters only) and they didn't leak.

Also, I found Michelin Xi-2 and Xi-3 snow tires very useful, much better than even "all season" tires, when I had my 260 HP 2000 Mustang GT.

 

[Mustang1260]

Is it just that it's tougher to put a lot of power down in a 2nd gear start?

YES....the last thing you want on snow/ice is a bunch of torque applied to the wheels.

Sorry to state this but based upon your questions your the last person who should be driving in snow in a car with more then 185 hp let alone 300+..

As for changing gears in a curve...WTF...slippery conditions IS NOT the issue. Do you know anything about handling....when changing gears you briefly unload and then reload the suspension...that can greatly alter handling and the ability of the car to maintain its intended path of travel-the very last thing you want in a curve...even in the bloody dry. Pick up some road course racing on TV- note how they change gears AND brake BEFORE the curve-not in it.

Seriously dude...go with a honda 4 banger (with no forced induction) for a while. Spend some bucks on a serious driving school....your clearly in a machine that is well over your head in terms of knowledge and ability.

 

[bmatt]

YES....the last thing you want on snow/ice is a bunch of torque applied to the wheels.

Sorry to state this but based upon your questions your the last person who should be driving in snow in a car with more then 185 hp let alone 300+..

As for changing gears in a curve...WTF...slippery conditions IS NOT the issue. Do you know anything about handling....when changing gears you briefly unload and then reload the suspension...that can greatly alter handling and the ability of the car to maintain its intended path of travel-the very last thing you want in a curve...even in the bloody dry. Pick up some road course racing on TV- note how they change gears AND brake BEFORE the curve-not in it.

Seriously dude...go with a honda 4 banger (with no forced induction) for a while. Spend some bucks on a serious driving school....your clearly in a machine that is well over your head in terms of knowledge and ability.

Little harsh I think, but relevant points.

In fairness if you are driving around town at normal rates shifting in a moderate curve is not uncommon and would be a less than ideal decision in ice. A sharp turn you shouldn't be. I assumed he meant a moderate curve at slow speeds.

Edit: ok he did say corner, that would be a no no for sure. And I even replied saying corner, it's been a long day.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sponsored