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Five_OhGT

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Hopefully my last mod for a while....swapped the stock catback back onto my car. It was just too loud between the blower, catless LTH, and the AWE touring exhaust which have tiny mufflers. I'm gonna miss the beautiful exhaust tips and the original exhaust note from the AWE before I went catless, but it was just too obnoxious to drive.

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MontiCristo

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Threw a billitworkz heavy weighted shift knob on her and man what a difference. Sticks up a little bit high (which I actually like). What a difference a weighted shifter can make. love it. Much smoother, faster shifts now.
 

bullitt0919

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After looking at a lot of forum threads, I bought a set of double-walled exhaust clamps on Amazon to keep my mufflers/tips level and prevent sagging. They'd been sagging ever since I installed my Steeda H-Pipe about 9 months ago, every once in a while I'd fix it and within 20 minutes of driving they were falling down again. These were about the cheapest ones I could find on Amazon but they seem to be working a lot better so far. They definitely just look a lot beefier than the Steeda clamps. Pics Below:

Amazon clamp in packaging
Image (4).webp


Amazon (left) vs Steeda (right) gage thickness comparison
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Amazon vs Steeda length comparison
Image (1).webp


Amazon clamps installed on the car
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GTP

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After looking at a lot of forum threads, I bought a set of double-walled exhaust clamps on Amazon to keep my mufflers/tips level and prevent sagging.
Please explain how they prevent sagging. Your last photo shows them clamped far from the tips.
🤔
 

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MAGS1

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Please explain how they prevent sagging. Your last photo shows them clamped far from the tips.
🤔
Each connection point is an opportunity for sagging. A stronger connection will help keep the joints stiffer (that’s what she said, LOL). That’s been my experience anyway. Welding is the best way IMO
 

GTP

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Each connection point is an opportunity for sagging. A stronger connection will help keep the joints stiffer (that’s what she said, LOL). That’s been my experience anyway. Welding is the best way IMO
Yeah, but ...
There are two sets of hangers in the back. One at the cradle and another right at the mufflers. Seems that is the place to make tip location adjustments. (Please no further innuendo jokes.)
 

bullitt0919

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Please explain how they prevent sagging. Your last photo shows them clamped far from the tips.
🤔
They sag because the Steeda clamps don’t have enough clamp force to properly keep the axle back from rotating.
The exhaust hangers are not in line with the CG of the unit, which means that the weight of the muffler is applying a constant torque to the clamped joint.
The basic clamps that come from Steeda hold air fine enough, but they aren’t strong enough to actually resist the rotation the muffler weight is applying to the joint, especially when combined with high RPM vibration and g-loads from bumps (or at least not with any imperfections in the cuts/clamp placement).
These clamps are thicker, more rigid, and thus have a more uniform clamp force that will hopefully prevent them from rotating and sagging outward. Several people in other threads posted similar results with larger/thicker clamps from other brands.

TLDR; Stronger clamp means it is less likely to rotate with the weight of the muffler.
 

bullitt0919

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Each connection point is an opportunity for sagging. A stronger connection will help keep the joints stiffer (that’s what she said, LOL). That’s been my experience anyway. Welding is the best way IMO
Welding is definitely the best way, I just would prefer to have the option to easily put the resonator back in if the situation arose. To each their own!
 

GTP

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They sag because the Steeda clamps don’t have enough clamp force to properly keep the axle back from rotating.
The exhaust hangers are not in line with the CG of the unit, which means that the weight of the muffler is applying a constant torque to the clamped joint.
The basic clamps that come from Steeda hold air fine enough, but they aren’t strong enough to actually resist the rotation the muffler weight is applying to the joint, especially when combined with high RPM vibration and g-loads from bumps (or at least not with any imperfections in the cuts/clamp placement).
These clamps are thicker, more rigid, and thus have a more uniform clamp force that will hopefully prevent them from rotating and sagging outward. Several people in other threads posted similar results with larger/thicker clamps from other brands.

TLDR; Stronger clamp means it is less likely to rotate with the weight of the muffler.
Great explanation, thanks! Makes sense now.
Now if you would be so kind as to post an Amazon link for us then we can bookmark it for a good quality/cost part.
 

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bullitt0919

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GTP

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Bob Lob Law

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I just had the shop who did my H pipe put a small tack weld on each connection and 2 years later they've never moved.
 

Justpassingas

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I just had the shop who did my H pipe put a small tack weld on each connection and 2 years later they've never moved.
The shop that did my H-pipe just welded it and didn’t use the clamps. Going on two years with no problems so far.
 

JB60

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Hand washed and detailed this morning for All Fords show tomorrow . When I was done changed my mind it's 90+ deg. too hot and humid.

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