Rebuild kit or replace? 2017 rear calipers.

[Free Spirit]

As you can tell something is obviously wrong. One side of the rotor is thinner than the other and the pads are torn up. Both sides have torn dust boots as well. I can't find a single video on how to rebuild the calipers so do I try and figure it out myself or just buy new calipers 400$ after shipping from tasca and 100 core charge but I'll have to pay like 40-50$ to ship the cores back so like 350$ total at the end. All local dealers are on backorder. Please give me some advice because I can't afford to keep replacing stuff. 2017 with 61k miles. I see that alot of people have issues with these boots melting and cracking but there doesn't seem to be a solution besides to drive with advancedtrac disabled 24/7. Which I'd rather not do (I have a heavy foot and it's saved my ass before).

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[NightmareMoon]

Yeah I'd just replace the calipers as opposed to rebuilding, and I figure you could get some used ones for a fraction of the cost of new I bet.

The rear boots definitely can't take the heat, but what did your pads look like? There's only one rear piston so if the rotors look like that, its probably not the piston's fault. Are the brackets bent? Are the sliders shot? Something is off to wear that unevenly on a rotor.

 

[Free Spirit]

Yeah I'd just replace the calipers as opposed to rebuilding, and I figure you could get some used ones for a fraction of the cost of new I bet.

The rear boots definitely can't take the heat, but what did your pads look like? There's only one rear piston so if the rotors look like that, its probably not the piston's fault. Are the brackets bent? Are the sliders shot? Something is off to wear that unevenly on a rotor.

Did the one photo of the pads not upload? It should be there showing the 2 pads that correspond to the messed up rotor. I heard that there's new part numbers for the calipers
FR3Z-2553-H
FR3Z-2552-H
And that they supposedly have better dust boots but they are still orange so I'm not sure, can anyone confirm this or is it bullshit?. If it is true I figure km better off going new than old because old ones might have issues. i also have dinged up brembos I plans to sand and use g2 caliper paint so I figured new ones in the rear would be easier to clean up than old ones. (Is there anything to clean up the slide pins? Should I hit the inside of that area with a sandblaster or just clean it really good with some brake cleaner and plug it and blast around it? My concern with getting used calipers is that they will also have torn bolts since it seems to be a pretty common issue? I could always get like powerstop calipers or car quest ones and hope the boots on those are better?

 

[NightmareMoon]

Get some new ones and you’re good. Put the sand blaster down and back away slowly.

 

[Free Spirit]

Get some new ones and you’re good. Put the sand blaster down and back away slowly.

I'm still going to have to blast the brackets. New calipers don't come with brackets. I got new slide pins dust boots and the end rubber prices but the OEM rubber pieces are still in good condition so I'll leave them on for now and just flood the shit out of the boots with lube after I use brake cleaner to clean out any old stuff in there.

 

[Free Spirit]

Get some new ones and you’re good. Put the sand blaster down and back away slowly.

Okay so I came across powerstop S15028
It specifically claims to have high heat dust seals. They appear to be around 280$ shipped vs 350ish for OEM. Is powerstop calipers equal to, worse or better than OEM? Bonus is they also come with new brackets and slide pins, downside is they are powder coated red. Will the powder coat need to be stripped completely off or can I use the g2 paint overtop of the powder coat after scuffing it up?

 

[Racer5973]

Okay so I came across powerstop S15028
It specifically claims to have high heat dust seals. They appear to be around 280$ shipped vs 350ish for OEM. Is powerstop calipers equal to, worse or better than OEM? Bonus is they also come with new brackets and slide pins, downside is they are powder coated red. Will the powder coat need to be stripped completely off or can I use the g2 paint overtop of the powder coat after scuffing it up?

Power stop is very good! Have power stop stuff on mine no complaints.do your a favor and ditch the rings on the ends of the slide pins.they cause more problems than anything. They cause the binding issues and cause uneven pad wear.

 

[Free Spirit]

Power stop is very good! Have power stop stuff on mine no complaints.do your a favor and ditch the rings on the ends of the slide pins.they cause more problems than anything. They cause the binding issues and cause uneven pad wear.

By rings do you mean the rubber piece? At the end of 1 slide pin? 1 pin is completely smooth the other has the rubber piece. Also will the powder coat hold up to being paint over? Will I have to strip it off?

 

[Racer5973]

Yes one is smooth and yes ditch the ring on the other. I have painted over powder coat and it worked fairly well. Your calipers will slide nice and free.

 

[Free Spirit]

Yes one is smooth and yes ditch the ring on the other. I have painted over powder coat and it worked fairly well. Your calipers will slide nice and free.

Should I just replace the line that has the rubber price with a pin that solid metal there? The rubber is only there for vibrations. How much will red paint fuck up the blue I plan to paint the calipers? I know the base layer bleeds through and affects the color a tiny bit. And would I just scruff the powdercoat so the g2 paint has something to grip onto? And do I just paint the outside of the caliper or should I paint inside the caliper? Looks like most people just do the outside and a tiny bit of the inside but the powercoated powerstops are the entire thing inside and out.

 

[Keeffa]

As you can tell something is obviously wrong. One side of the rotor is thinner than the other and the pads are torn up. Both sides have torn dust boots as well. I can't find a single video on how to rebuild the calipers so do I try and figure it out myself or just buy new calipers 400$ after shipping from tasca and 100 core charge but I'll have to pay like 40-50$ to ship the cores back so like 350$ total at the end. All local dealers are on backorder. Please give me some advice because I can't afford to keep replacing stuff. 2017 with 61k miles. I see that alot of people have issues with these boots melting and cracking but there doesn't seem to be a solution besides to drive with advancedtrac disabled 24/7. Which I'd rather not do (I have a heavy foot and it's saved my ass before).

Looks like the sliders are seized. They often don't get the attention they need during service.

 

[Free Spirit]

Looks like the sliders are seized. They often don't get the attention they need during service.

They slide in out with no resistance. Not seized at all. And the piston twisted in just fine so also not seized. I can't thing if any reason why one side would wear so much more than the other since if the piston was stuck pushing out both sides should be pressed against the rotor equally. Not 1 side extremely moreso than the other? But listen and slide pins were free. The other side had 1 stuck slide pin but no uneven wear

 

[Keeffa]

The only other thing I can think of is if when brakes have been bled I've found if they suck the fluid out rather than opening the bleeder and flushing it through it can course the caliper to stick on. Making it rub but not sure it would explain what you've got there. I'd look at some second hand ones. Best of luck.

 

[Free Spirit]

The only other thing I can think of is if when brakes have been bled I've found if they suck the fluid out rather than opening the bleeder and flushing it through it can course the caliper to stick on. Making it rub but not sure it would explain what you've got there. I'd look at some second hand ones. Best of luck.

First thing I did when I got the car was new fluid and I bled each brake until pretty clean fluid came out. It was never going to be 100% clean and fluid is pricey

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