2017 Mustang GT Ruby Red conv Stereo upgrade.

[TonyT930]

It came with the Shaker Pro system with the 8 inch sub. That just wasn't good enough, so I upgraded. Here is a list of the parts:

Stinger OFC 4 gauge power wire to 1 farad capacitor.

Stinger OFC 4 gauge from Capacitor to Stinger fuse link/distribution block.

2 Stinger 8 gauge wires from fuse link/distribution block to each amp. Amps are JL Audio 500/1 mono subwoofer amp and JL Audio 300/4 full range 75 watts X 4 to power the cabin speakers.

Cabin speakers - Focal 3 way component speakers Focal AS 165AS3 for the doors. JL Audio C3 650 component convertibles for the rear seat panels.

Subwoofer - JL Audio 12W3v3-4 4 ohm single voice. RMS 500 in a ported enclosure .75 cubic feet internal space.

I stayed with the stock head unit with an idatalink maestro AFO3 integration cable wired to a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 digital processor.

Other parts - Stinger 8000 series directional RCA cables, 16 gauge OFC speaker wire, 12 gauge subwoofer OFC speaker wires, quick rings for the door speakers and rear panel speakers. Also, round "cushions " behind door woofers to cut down on the back reverberation.

Skar 2mm sound deadening material in the doors, trunk, under rear seat, under black trunk panel, trunk lid,, and license tag.

The results? This fucker sounds awesome and the bass hits strong, clear, and with precision. The Focal AS165 AS3's are bright and accurate. These Focal came with passive crossovers with a -3, 0, +3db adjustment for the tweeters. I left the crossovers at 0 DB for the tweeters.

I built a amp rack and mounted the Rockford Fosgate DSR1, both JL Audio amps, the capacitor, and both positive and negative disp blocks to it. The amp rack is in the spare tire well. Here are some pics of the build in various stages... If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

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[TonyT930]

It came with the Shaker Pro system with the 8 inch sub. That just wasn't good enough, so I upgraded. Here is a list of the parts:

Stinger OFC 4 gauge power wire to 1 farad capacitor.

Stinger OFC 4 gauge from Capacitor to Stinger fuse link/distribution block.

2 Stinger 8 gauge wires from fuse link/distribution block to each amp. Amps are JL Audio 500/1 mono subwoofer amp and JL Audio 300/4 full range 75 watts X 4 to power the cabin speakers.

Cabin speakers - Focal 3 way component speakers Focal AS 165AS3 for the doors. Focal Access 6.5 coaxial for the rear seat panels.

Subwoofer - JL Audio 12W3v3-4 4 ohm single voice. RMS 500 in a ported enclosure .75 cubic feet internal space.

I stayed with the stock head unit with an idatalink maestro AFO3 integration cable wired to a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 digital processor.

Other parts - Stinger 8000 series directional RCA cables, 16 gauge OFC speaker wire, 12 gauge subwoofer OFC speaker wires, quick rings for the door speakers and rear panel speakers. Also, round "cushions " behind door woofers to cut down on the back reverberation.

Skar 2mm sound deadening material in the doors, trunk, under rear seat, under black trunk panel, trunk lid,, and license tag.

The results? This fucker sounds awesome and the bass hits strong, clear, and with precision. The Focal AS165 AS3's are bright and accurate. These Focal came with passive crossovers with a -3, 0, +3db adjustment for the tweeters. I left the crossovers at A DB for the tweeters.

I built a amp rack and mounted the Rockford Fosgate DSR1, both JL Audio amps, the capacitor, and both positive and negative to it. The amp rack is in the spare tire well. Here are some pics of the build in various stages... If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Positive and negative distribution blocks on the amp rack*

 

[TonyT930]

Positive and negative distribution blocks on the amp rack*

Another tidbit of information. Rather than using the remote wire feed wire on the idatalink maestro to turn on the amps, I ran a separate remote wire from the fuse box under the passenger side front kick panel. I tapped fuse location number 23 to send power down the remote wire to turn the amps on. I think it's labeled for "windows" and "switches." I put 2 10 amp fuses in the tap. Tapping this fuse location turns off the amps as soon the car goes to sleep. Note - I tried to use the remote wire feed on the idatalink maestro harness to turn on the amps, but it didn't work. The amps wouldn't turn on. So I ran a remote wire from the fuse box to the amps as stated .

 

[TonyT930]

Another tidbit of information. Rather than using the remote wire feed wire on the idatalink maestro to turn on the amps, I ran a separate remote wire from the fuse box under the passenger side front kick panel. I tapped fuse location number 23 to send power down the remote wire to turn the amps on. I think it's labeled for "windows" and "switches." I put 2 10 amp fuses in the tap. Tapping this fuse location turns off the amps as soon as you turn off the car. Note - I tried to use the remote wire feed on the idatalink maestro harness to turn on the amps, but it didn't work. The amps wouldn't turn on. So I ran a remote wire from the fuse box to the amps as stated .

I ended up adding some tweeter pods from Custompods, a master control with clip light for the Rockford Fosgate DSR1, and some cooling fans in the trunk to cool the amps on the amp rack in the spare tire well.

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[TonyT930]

I went along and installed speaker pods for the mids and woofers in the doors. It made a huge difference in the sound staging. Plus, it gives me more flexibility as to what speakers fit now. I'm looking to upgrade the Focal Access 165 3 ways to the Focal ES165KX3 6.5" 3-Way component system or the JL Audio C6 3 way component system. Not sure yet. Also, here are some pics of the speakers pods in the doors and of the rear seat delete with speaker grills functioning as air holes to the trunk.

 

[TonyT930]

If anyone wants a sub rack for the spare tire well just like I built above, let me know. I have two extra cut out off the sheet plywood with a piece of carpet for each that I used on mine. I will sell them for cheap. $30.00 per amp rack plus shipping. DM me if interested

 

[TonyT930]

I also have a pair of Focal Flax midrange speakers for sale brand new in the box. Make a fair offer and they are yours. They fit behind the door panel with a pair of quick mounts that i bought from a company in Florida.

 

[TonyT930]

Well, I took out the Focal tweeters in the front and replaced them with JL Audio C6 tweeters. Much better sound. Smoother, more natural, and not tinny. Its not tiring to listen to anymore.

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