About to set my car on fire... a finger in the right direction would be very appreciated.

[BreckinHardin]

There is about 10 pages worth of stuff I could write but I am gonna try and make it short and sweet. This car is killing me financially and mentally.
2020 5.0 401A 6 speed ESS G3 blower
I am at a loss with this P0340 code. It has came back since oct 23. It only wants to trigger at high RPM, 7k+. Most of the time it won't even trigger the CEL, but I know it happens because my cam position readings default to 0.0 and stay that way until I clear code/restart car. This has been a nightmare. I have tried everything in the book to fix it, even threw my hands in the air and took it to a performance shop to try and fix it. $3600 later I took the car home and it's still not fixed. I'm around $5500 deep into fixing this one code. It used to throw a P0344 and a misfire with the P0340, almost everytime, but now it ONLY throws the P0340. Tested many times.
Things that have been replaced:
Oil change, twice, and tested different oil weight
Sensors
The connector/pigtail
Soleniods
Phasers
All timing components
OPG/CS
Alternator was tested for bad diode, reading said it was good
Tuner can't really see anything in the logs that would point us to it. He mentioned something about the Direct Injection readings being a little funky, but he said it could have just been lagging behind or something along those lines.
I just want this stupid car fixed. I am way too invested to scrap it. I also can't afford another absolutely massive bill for this stupid car. Please help my ass, lol.

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[NGOT8R]

Have you performed a crank relearn to see if that takes care of your issue?

 

[BreckinHardin]

Have you performed a crank relearn to see if that takes care of your issue?

Yes sir. Probably 100 times

 

[Cobra Jet]

Have you back probed the wiring and or connector to any sensors along that path for possible damaged wiring under the conduit?

 

[BreckinHardin]

The shop that I paid to fix this said they took out every wire in the engine harness loom and tested from one side to the other (PCM). Tested voltages on the sensor and the pigtail on the camshaft sensor itself. They said they did, so I am going to say Yes to your question.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

I see you are in Hardin. Did you take it to a KC shop?

 

[BreckinHardin]

I see you are in Hardin. Did you take it to a KC shop?

I see you are in Hardin? I think you may have mistyped. Yes I took it to a shop in KC.

 

[NGOT8R]

The shop that I paid to fix this said they took out every wire in the engine harness loom and tested from one side to the other (PCM). Tested voltages on the sensor and the pigtail on the camshaft sensor itself. They said they did, so I am going to say Yes to your question.

Just curious, do you have an N2MB Wot Box on the car? If so, under Global Settings and RPM Source, did you check the Mazda Speed3 or 6 -CKP setting instead of Ford - CKP? This could certainly be a cause of misfires.

When I installed my WOT Box, I assumed that since my car was a Ford, I needed to check Ford -CKP and that turned out to be wrong. It needs to be the Mazda setting like this.

 

[BreckinHardin]

Just curious, do you have an N2MB Wot Box on the car? If so, under Global Settings and RPM Source, did you check the Mazda Speed3 or 6 -CKP setting instead of Ford - CKP? This could certainly be a cause of misfires.

When I installed my WOT Box, I assumed that since my car was a Ford, I needed to check Ford -CKP and that turned out to be wrong. It needs to be the Mazda setting like this.

Yes I have a WOTBOX. It's not causing my issue since the WOTBOX was fairly recent and the P0340 is not. Had the P0340 way before the WOTBOX. Also, im not fighting a misfire right now. I'm fighting the P0340. Thank you for your advice though.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

I see you are in Hardin? I think you may have mistyped. Yes I took it to a shop in KC.

Sorry, might have made a bad assumption based upon your user name and being in Missouri. House of Boost and Modified by KC would be your best bets in KC if you used a different shop.

 

[BreckinHardin]

Sorry, might have made a bad assumption based upon your user name and being in Missouri. House of Boost and Modified by KC would be your best bets in KC if you used a different shop.

I took it to a different shop. They are pretty good though. I also can't really afford to pay another shop to do everything the first shop has already done again and then still maybe find nothing.

 

[NGOT8R]

Sorry, might have made a bad assumption based upon your user name and being in Missouri. House of Boost and Modified by KC would be your best bets in KC if you used a different shop.

Killer Performance in Grain Valley is also another good shop. They have specialists for each auto manufacturer working in their shop.

 

[BreckinHardin]

Killer Performance in Grain Valley is also another good shop. They have specialists for each auto manufacturer working in their shop.

Thats where it went.

 

[NGOT8R]

Thats where it went.

Oh okay.

 

[Silver Bullitt]

I took it to a different shop. They are pretty good though. I also can't really afford to pay another shop to do everything the first shop has already done again and then still maybe find nothing.

I can’t really help you diagnose your problem, just suggestions for someone that might. It might be worth a call to MKC. They’ve helped me with questions over the phone before.

Best of luck getting it sorted out.

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