Todd15Fastback
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I am curious about this as well.
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JWS
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Bill's LE
If Bill's LE was the one in the Photos I originally commented on, he's got similar hood alignment issues as well.
I've had my LE about a week and a half now and driven it twice, with under 200 total miles. It had 20 when it arrived at the dealer. I drove it home that day and then to the body shop near me a couple days later. It's been in the garage since then. I took photos and video as the car was unwrapped, and afterwards, before driving home.
The other day, I finally looked under the car. The exhaust is rusting along bend scratches and weld joints. Showed photos to the folks at my local dealer and all agree, it couldn't possibly be Stainless Steel. The mufflers appear OK, but the pipes and hanger stingers are rusting. Looked at the local dealership's owner's car and it is clean as a whistle, even though it's been driven in the rain.
When I got the car home, I noticed a dent in the black horizontal exhaust valence. This can not be bumped-out without removing the bumper, as the location is blocked by the hardware between the metal bumper and the valence. This was barely noticeable, but showed-up in unwrap photos, along with a paint blister, that popped and left an open spot on the bumper.
Immediately noticeable on unwrapping was a reverse dent in the right front fender, on top, near the door. It almost looked like something got caught between the door and fender, except there was no mark on the door. Therefore, this probably happened before paint, or before the panel was bolted on. A dent repair guy could possibly bump this out.
The Trunk Lid on the right side corner, over the Taillight had a gob of excess paint that hung down and contained bubbles or particulate matter, that if sanded down, would leave exposed metal.
I've seen some pre-production cars and photos with perfect alignment. Something happened in production vehicles where there might be more than one bumper mold and more than one left rear quarter panel stamping die. The rear bumpers are narrower than the quarter panels outside the taillight housings. If you align the bumper with the panel on the outside, they don't align on the taillight housing. If you align them on the housing, then there is a step where the panel meets the bumper.
The left rear quarter panel has a wave or corrugated appearance over the left taillight, where it meets the trunk lid. This could be from attachment of the panel in the jigs for welding as the panel is placed over the fuel filler receptacle, or it's a die stamping issue. It is throwing the panel out of alignment with the angle of the trunk lid bend.
Neither rear quarter panel, above the tail lights, matches the angle of the trunk lid.
The plastic attached to the trunk lid doesn't match the plastic of the taillight housings.
The trunk lid edge is straight-cut, over the taillight housings,rather than folding-under like the quarter panels. This may be for clearance, but makes for an unsightly appearance. They may have been trying to duplicate the slight cut-outs of the '67 trunk lid, but if that's the case, they failed. Either way, the plastic on the trunk lid doesn't align with the tail lights. Looks like you could adjust the trunk to align with the fender panel, or the plastic, but not both. There's alignment of the plastic when looking at it from directly behind, and there's alignment when looking down from directly overhead. I have no idea how you would adjust everything to fit without taking it all apart and cutting and welding metal.
You also have trunk lid alignment issues in the corners near the rear window. The same thing shows up in the windshield area of the hood. The hood has a bump-up of about an eighth inch about a foot behind the left headlight. Both the trunk and hood are shifted to one side. On the trunk, there actually appears to be a large, thin, round shim on the left mounting apparatus that is pushing the trunk to the left. The hood attach points may be contributing to its alignment problems. There is also a vertical step between the hood and fenders near the windshield.
Both front and rear bumpers were too far back or forward, respectively, leaving a jagged point in the wheel arches. Tried to pop these back, with unknown long-term results. Was able to smooth the bumper to panel step a bit by massaging them, but the bumpers really have too sharp an endpoint. Haven't seen this on all Mustangs. Some are pretty good. The pre-production cars seemed better in these areas.
Then there are the plastic body-colored rocker panels that appear to be too short, leaving a wheel arch join problem, opposite the bumper wheel arch problems.
The Stainless Trim on the doors is too short. You can have a good alignment on the rear of the door, where it meets-up with the Vent Window Trim, or you can have it align with the front of the door. I have one instance of each. The rubber trim molding on the non-LE cars is the right length.
My left door is pretty good on vertical alignment of the crease in the fenders and rocker panels, but is pulled-in, almost the thickness of the front fender at the front, but almost flush at the rear. The right door is only about half as bad. Very noticeable though. Don't know if hinge adjustment or shims will solve this without making a problem for door window closing clearances.
The outside door handles touch the forward and aft assemblies on the outboard side. I can't believe they we're intended to be that way. The gap between them should be uniform and parallel. If you pull the handle out to make a parallel gap, the handle is sticking out in the breeze about an eighth inch.
Fit and finish of the Interior is Great and almost makes you forget about the outside problems. I do, however, have one complaint on ergonomics. When I finally get comfortable in the seat for my preferred driving position, the speedometer is off, due to parallax. Wish the tach and speedo were angled-in towards your eye and were adjustable, like the steering wheel. Maybe for next year! Also, it would be nice to have a numerical speed readout, along with the analog needle. Only way I can be sure of speed is to activate cruise-control and bump the speed up or down, digitally, with the cruise. Cruise is difficult to cancel or engage because it is so far inboard on the wheel, making you take your hand off the rim to operate.
Other than all the problems, it is still a beautiful car, and one that is going to stay in the family, forever . . . after all the problems are addressed by Ford!
Have notified Ford Service and our local dealer's owner and body shop, awaiting a Ford Engineering Rep to take a look at the issues. Will have to return car to the selling dealership about the bumper valence issue, as that is considered a Transportation/Delivery concern. Would take the car back to the sales dealership for all issues, except that would put too many miles on the car and would interfere with work.
If Bill's LE was the one in the Photos I originally commented on, he's got similar hood alignment issues as well.
I've had my LE about a week and a half now and driven it twice, with under 200 total miles. It had 20 when it arrived at the dealer. I drove it home that day and then to the body shop near me a couple days later. It's been in the garage since then. I took photos and video as the car was unwrapped, and afterwards, before driving home.
The other day, I finally looked under the car. The exhaust is rusting along bend scratches and weld joints. Showed photos to the folks at my local dealer and all agree, it couldn't possibly be Stainless Steel. The mufflers appear OK, but the pipes and hanger stingers are rusting. Looked at the local dealership's owner's car and it is clean as a whistle, even though it's been driven in the rain.
When I got the car home, I noticed a dent in the black horizontal exhaust valence. This can not be bumped-out without removing the bumper, as the location is blocked by the hardware between the metal bumper and the valence. This was barely noticeable, but showed-up in unwrap photos, along with a paint blister, that popped and left an open spot on the bumper.
Immediately noticeable on unwrapping was a reverse dent in the right front fender, on top, near the door. It almost looked like something got caught between the door and fender, except there was no mark on the door. Therefore, this probably happened before paint, or before the panel was bolted on. A dent repair guy could possibly bump this out.
The Trunk Lid on the right side corner, over the Taillight had a gob of excess paint that hung down and contained bubbles or particulate matter, that if sanded down, would leave exposed metal.
I've seen some pre-production cars and photos with perfect alignment. Something happened in production vehicles where there might be more than one bumper mold and more than one left rear quarter panel stamping die. The rear bumpers are narrower than the quarter panels outside the taillight housings. If you align the bumper with the panel on the outside, they don't align on the taillight housing. If you align them on the housing, then there is a step where the panel meets the bumper.
The left rear quarter panel has a wave or corrugated appearance over the left taillight, where it meets the trunk lid. This could be from attachment of the panel in the jigs for welding as the panel is placed over the fuel filler receptacle, or it's a die stamping issue. It is throwing the panel out of alignment with the angle of the trunk lid bend.
Neither rear quarter panel, above the tail lights, matches the angle of the trunk lid.
The plastic attached to the trunk lid doesn't match the plastic of the taillight housings.
The trunk lid edge is straight-cut, over the taillight housings,rather than folding-under like the quarter panels. This may be for clearance, but makes for an unsightly appearance. They may have been trying to duplicate the slight cut-outs of the '67 trunk lid, but if that's the case, they failed. Either way, the plastic on the trunk lid doesn't align with the tail lights. Looks like you could adjust the trunk to align with the fender panel, or the plastic, but not both. There's alignment of the plastic when looking at it from directly behind, and there's alignment when looking down from directly overhead. I have no idea how you would adjust everything to fit without taking it all apart and cutting and welding metal.
You also have trunk lid alignment issues in the corners near the rear window. The same thing shows up in the windshield area of the hood. The hood has a bump-up of about an eighth inch about a foot behind the left headlight. Both the trunk and hood are shifted to one side. On the trunk, there actually appears to be a large, thin, round shim on the left mounting apparatus that is pushing the trunk to the left. The hood attach points may be contributing to its alignment problems. There is also a vertical step between the hood and fenders near the windshield.
Both front and rear bumpers were too far back or forward, respectively, leaving a jagged point in the wheel arches. Tried to pop these back, with unknown long-term results. Was able to smooth the bumper to panel step a bit by massaging them, but the bumpers really have too sharp an endpoint. Haven't seen this on all Mustangs. Some are pretty good. The pre-production cars seemed better in these areas.
Then there are the plastic body-colored rocker panels that appear to be too short, leaving a wheel arch join problem, opposite the bumper wheel arch problems.
The Stainless Trim on the doors is too short. You can have a good alignment on the rear of the door, where it meets-up with the Vent Window Trim, or you can have it align with the front of the door. I have one instance of each. The rubber trim molding on the non-LE cars is the right length.
My left door is pretty good on vertical alignment of the crease in the fenders and rocker panels, but is pulled-in, almost the thickness of the front fender at the front, but almost flush at the rear. The right door is only about half as bad. Very noticeable though. Don't know if hinge adjustment or shims will solve this without making a problem for door window closing clearances.
The outside door handles touch the forward and aft assemblies on the outboard side. I can't believe they we're intended to be that way. The gap between them should be uniform and parallel. If you pull the handle out to make a parallel gap, the handle is sticking out in the breeze about an eighth inch.
Fit and finish of the Interior is Great and almost makes you forget about the outside problems. I do, however, have one complaint on ergonomics. When I finally get comfortable in the seat for my preferred driving position, the speedometer is off, due to parallax. Wish the tach and speedo were angled-in towards your eye and were adjustable, like the steering wheel. Maybe for next year! Also, it would be nice to have a numerical speed readout, along with the analog needle. Only way I can be sure of speed is to activate cruise-control and bump the speed up or down, digitally, with the cruise. Cruise is difficult to cancel or engage because it is so far inboard on the wheel, making you take your hand off the rim to operate.
Other than all the problems, it is still a beautiful car, and one that is going to stay in the family, forever . . . after all the problems are addressed by Ford!
Have notified Ford Service and our local dealer's owner and body shop, awaiting a Ford Engineering Rep to take a look at the issues. Will have to return car to the selling dealership about the bumper valence issue, as that is considered a Transportation/Delivery concern. Would take the car back to the sales dealership for all issues, except that would put too many miles on the car and would interfere with work.
JWS
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Will be going to the Sand Lake Panera on Saturday, if it's still on. Want to take a look at some other cars to get an idea of how widespread these issues are.
HrsePwr
Well-Known Member
I requested that the dealer NOT PDI my car. I didn't want some lot jockey to get carried away with testing the functions, especially the line-lock. Apologies if I offend anyone, but I used to be a lot jockey, so I know what goes on with the 'cool' new cars...
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2015 LE 50TH Kona Blue
I did the same thing. When the car arrived at the dealership my salesman parked it in the garage. The salesman and I went over the car together.
draco24433
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Wow, I am sorry you guys are having issues with your cars. Although I believe that all Mustangs should have come out of the factory a lot better than they have, I believe that extra attention to detail should have been paid to all LE's. I sincerely hope you guys are able to get things taken care of.
wilkinda65
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My car has a scratch on the rear bumper right near the bottom of the valance. It was under the cover and must have been done during transportation. I discussed it with the dealership already. unfortunately its deep enough that to fix it would mean having to strip, repair, reshoot, clear and blend in. not sure i want to go thru all that crap. We decided to get some of the dent / nick repair specialist they use to look at it first.
activeGT
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All manufacturers do. The bumpers go on like a bra and snap in retainers on the sides and then push clips and/ or screws in the wheel house area. Very easy to adjust unless one of the ears on the retainer is broken. The fenders, doors and bumpers are also very easy to align but just requite a socket and ratchet or a wrench.
Mustangchief
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I hope Ford can figure out who has been driving these around. I have a bunch of minor issues too, scratch, alignment of the drivers door, 30 miles on the clock, small outward dent above drivers visor rod, scuffs inside the drivers door. I can fix all of the issues. I think Ford should give us all Z-Plan PINS for our troubles.:ford:
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