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1st oil change @ dealer-interesting convo. Warning: tick content

young at heart

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Even though I’m old and of necessity still dodging COVID I decided to have my dealership change my oil today. Only had ~2300 miles but I’ve had my 2020 GT a year now so I was getting the nag screen message. Encountered 2 guys, one younger and one more senior looking but both seemed very knowledgeable and were polite. So here are some bullet points of the convo:

* When I asked about 5w20 vs. the 2021 recommendation of 5w30, the older guy (manager type) said all they have is 5w20 and they put it in ‘21s too. So no choice there. And this ain’t no rinky-dink dealership.

*I said my preference was full syn but that I had read that you stood a better chance of not developing the tick if you stuck with blend. Young guy says that some cars get the tick and some don’t but most do and there is no correlation to whether you put in full syn or blend. He preferred full syn and so do I so that’s what I went with.

* When older guy heard the “tick” word he looked up and said “it’s just air and it all started with the 2011 diesels”. He got busy again so I wasn’t able to ask him to elaborate.

* Perhaps most shocking of all, while they proactively assured me they put in 10 quarts their system would only allow them to bill me for 8 so I got a 2 quart discount. I’ll of course check it in the morning.

They had me out in about 45 minutes and I consider it to have been a really good experience.
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Schwerin

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Even though I’m old and of necessity still dodging COVID I decided to have my dealership change my oil today. Only had ~2300 miles but I’ve had my 2020 GT a year now so I was getting the nag screen message. Encountered 2 guys, one younger and one more senior looking but both seemed very knowledgeable and were polite. So here are some bullet points of the convo:

* When I asked about 5w20 vs. the 2021 recommendation of 5w30, the older guy (manager type) said all they have is 5w20 and they put it in ‘21s too. So no choice there. And this ain’t no rinky-dink dealership.

*I said my preference was full syn but that I had read that you stood a better chance of not developing the tick if you stuck with blend. Young guy says that some cars get the tick and some don’t but most do and there is no correlation to whether you put in full syn or blend. He preferred full syn and so do I so that’s what I went with.

* When older guy heard the “tick” word he looked up and said “it’s just air and it all started with the 2011 diesels”. He got busy again so I wasn’t able to ask him to elaborate.

* Perhaps most shocking of all, while they proactively assured me they put in 10 quarts their system would only allow them to bill me for 8 so I got a 2 quart discount. I’ll of course check it in the morning.

They had me out in about 45 minutes and I consider it to have been a really good experience.
Well #1 its odd they dont have other oils, when there are cars that call for it. That to me is a Flag about that dealer.


I've not seen anyone really oil out THING about oil getting rid of the Tick other than going to a heavier oil, like a 40.

I think the Air thing he' talking about is that at one point it was reasoned the Oil pump gears were generating small air bubbles and the ticking is the sound of the bubbles popping resonating through the engine.

Last time I was at the dealer I was only charged for 6 and checked the next day and I did indeed have 10.
 

Rapid Red

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Air bubbles & small ones at that, popping in oil pump, gears and being heard.

Screen Shot 2021-11-02 at 6.44.19 PM.png


I would have loved to be the fly on the lunch room wall, that day .
 

aw081271

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in Germany we did an oil analysis.
the Castrol oil from the factory is high in boron.
about 160.
the 5w20 Castrol from the store has a lot less at around 20.

Boron prevents ticking. it is, so to speak, a lubricant between the metals.
so the ticking starts after the 1st oil change. find an oil with a lot of boron.
in Europe, Total or Ravenol oils contain a lot of boron.


In addition, the 0W20 - 948B is older than the Coyote 3.
I will switch to a modern 5W30 - 961-A1 with a lot of boron.
I think that goes better with the coyote 3.

in germany, however, we also have other parameters.
for example an ottoparticle filter or
motorway without speed limit, so higher load on the engine.
 

Konamoth

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in Germany we did an oil analysis.
the Castrol oil from the factory is high in boron.
about 160.
the 5w20 Castrol from the store has a lot less at around 20.

Boron prevents ticking. it is, so to speak, a lubricant between the metals.
so the ticking starts after the 1st oil change. find an oil with a lot of boron.
in Europe, Total or Ravenol oils contain a lot of boron.


In addition, the 0W20 - 948B is older than the Coyote 3.
I will switch to a modern 5W30 - 961-A1 with a lot of boron.
I think that goes better with the coyote 3.

in germany, however, we also have other parameters.
for example an ottoparticle filter or
motorway without speed limit, so higher load on the engine.
Interesting. Do you happen to have a source on the factory oil having a different boron count?

Not that I necessarily doubt it—rather, to have for future reference. I've been of the mind that the factory oil had to have something additional in it, be it leftover assembly oil or an obscure additive, for the tick to only start consistently after the first or second change in most cases. I'm sure others here would appreciate such reading material, as well.

I'll note that. I looked at a liqui moly oil for my last change, too—but wound up blending two bottles of Ceratec into my normal buy instead. Damn!
 

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oneheadlite

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....I don't believe about the oil either.
I took my '20 Scat Pack Hemi in for an oil change around 2500 miles.
The oil change place said they had just used all of their synthetic oil and
for me to come back in a few days, but to call first.

I was impressed with the fact they could have put in a Blend and
I probably wouldn't have known.

Honesty; go figure.......................................:like:

IMG_0353.JPG
 

aw081271

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Sources are the analyzes from the German Oil Forum:

oil-club

here is the analysis of the LM Ceratec.
(watch out for the Boron, lol)

According to an analysis:

B (mg / kg): 10202
Ca (mg / kg): 2983
Mo (mg / kg): 6420
P (mg / kg): 776
S (mg / kg): 3254
Zn (mg / kg): 952
Al (mg / kg): 199
Sn (mg / kg): 19

in the pdf you see the analysis of the Castrol engine-oil-filling from the factory after 2119km.
its a Mustang MY 09/2019.
 

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aw081271

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Although nothing has been changed on the engine, the Mustang will also have the new oil requirements from 04/2021:

SAE 0W30 WSS M2C950-A
SAE 5W30 WSS-M2C961-A1

my favorite at the moment would be that
QUARTZ 9000 FUTURE FGC 5W-30
compatible to: Ford WSS-M2C961-A1

do not confuse this with this
Total 5W-30 Quartz Future NFC

here is an analysis
(unfortunately in Russian)
Boron 228
oil analysis

Total and Liqui Moli or Ravenol have a better additive composition than Castrol.
Castrol only has a partnership with Ford, that's all.
 
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boB

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* Perhaps most shocking of all, while they proactively assured me they put in 10 quarts their system would only allow them to bill me for 8 so I got a 2 quart discount. I’ll of course check it in the morning.
Don't wait until the next morning, check the oil before leaving the dealer.
 

Rapid Red

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30W Castrol here, FWIW most OHC motors from 500K > 60K cars make noise. It's all about mechanical clearances, chains and so on.

If trying to quite it down. As were the old style hyd lifter, single cam motors.

Frankly not only are you kidding oneself, but dreaming. Another part of the puzzle IRON blocks absorb noise, aluminum not as much.

Chase the rabbit down the hole if you will. The noise is going to win that game.

Rock_on
 

OutWest

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Isn’t this issue been taken care of by using Liquid Molly Ceratec?
 
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young at heart

young at heart

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Isn’t this issue been taken care of by using Liquid Molly Ceratec?

Perhaps, but doesn’t Ford reserve the right to 86 the warranty on engines that have run additives? I’m not looking at the owner’s manual but it seems I have read that.

Remember, they don’t have to prove it caused a problem; you have to prove it didn’t.
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