17 GT Manual PP...How would you mod it with $5k?

[chagan02]

Howdy all, this is my first post on this forum (longtime member on SVTP, and others). Been posting over there for a while and it seems like there is a little more focused attention on the S550 here, wonder why? Anyways...

So I have 2017 GT Manual with Performance Pack. I bought the car about 18 months ago with 6500 miles on it, now has 7700. Since I've owned it I was under the impression that it just had a Roush Axle-Back, but I always thought it was awful loud for that so I got under it recently and discovered it's the full Cat-Back (w/xpipe), now the volume makes sense. Otherwise, no performance mods beside a shifter.

All that said I've been saving up some cash in anticipation of the Black Friday sales this year for some mods. So the question is, how would you mod this car with a budget of 5k or less? The car is NOT a DD and never sees the dragstrip. However, I cannot rule it out on occasion, as well as perhaps an autocross session.

Below are the options I'm considering (car is out of warranty)...

• Bolt Ons (will these make a substantial difference?)
  • Headers
  • CAI, Tune (93 octane, no E85)
  • Unsure about 18 mani...everything I've seen says the stock mani outperforms the 18 mani below 6500 rpm, especially torque. Since this is a street car.....
• Forced Induction (I know this will...lol)
  • Used S/C kit (obvious choice)
    • PD Blower - Prefer VMP or Roush due to price
    • Centri - Car has 3.73 gears (not changing) so would a centri be a better choice?
  • Used Turbo kit (very enticing...)
    • Most likely the Hellion Street Sleeper kit (may even splurge for a new one), what about the On3 kit?

My ideal power level is 500-550whp, which the Bolt Ons won't reach, and the FI options way exceed. I just can't justify spending 7k for a FI setup, with me installing it, thus why I'm looking into a nice used kit. I've bought a used S/C before and it worked out well, Novi2000 on a 2V car. On the FI option, I'm just concerned about reliability. My wife drives the car quite often and I don't want it so crazy that I'm worried about her getting stranded somewhere. Not to mention also concerned about that MT82, the clutch, the halfshafts, etc. Probably safe there as long as I don't put on sticky tires. What about the OPGs, I see folks replacing them, is that mandatory at a certain power level? Been down that road twice with my 2V...

Any input you can provide would be super helpful. Just not sure what's safe and what's not on these Gen2 Coyotes.

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[Labradog]

Personally, I wouldn't touch the engine. I would spend the money on upgrading the suspension. My own wish list: Steeda Min Drop springs, Ford Performance Track dampers, BMR Shock Mounts, MM Caster Camber Plates, and BMR CB005 irs cradle lockout kit. Swap the exhaust if you don't like it (I love my Corsa Sport catback). If you wanted a little more power I'd go with the Ford Performance Power Pack 2. .

Oh, and if I had to go back to a MT-82 car I'd definitely add a MGW shifter.

 

[kluke15]

if i could start over now with what ive learned mgw shifter, lightweight wheels, tires, irs bracing, rear shock mounts, maybe springs/shocks if you dislike the ride at all in that order. def add a tune as well but would also be helpful to tune once you have done any bolt on engine mods if you are gonna go that route so you dont have to retune.

 

[chagan02]

Personally, I wouldn't touch the engine. I would spend the money on upgrading the suspension. My own wish list: Steeda Min Drop springs, Ford Performance Track dampers, BMR Shock Mounts, MM Caster Camber Plates, and BMR CB005 irs cradle lockout kit. Swap the exhaust if you don't like it (I love my Corsa Sport catback). If you wanted a little more power I'd go with the Ford Performance Power Pack 2. .

Oh, and if I had to go back to a MT-82 car I'd definitely add a MGW shifter.

Thanks for the Reply, and to Brian as well. So why so much suspension work? The car feels really solid as is...I just must not know what I'm missing. lol. I thought the PP had upgraded sway bars, end links, etc?

 

[chagan02]

if i could start over now with what ive learned mgw shifter, lightweight wheels, tires, irs bracing, rear shock mounts, maybe springs/shocks if you dislike the ride at all in that order. def add a tune as well but would also be helpful to tune once you have done any bolt on engine mods if you are gonna go that route so you dont have to retune.

So why the need for the IRS brace and rear shock mounts? Was the HP/TQ gain noticeable for you with the Tune and LTH? I'd do it all at once as you suggest. How do you like those Pypes headers? I see no real benefit to paying for the Kooks, etc...

 

[AZ18yote]

Unfortunate e85 is not an option. In that case headers and 18 mani with tune. And as others have said suspension like springs and cradle lockout. Add lightweight wheels (pp1 wheels are boat anchors) and 1 piece light weight drive shaft. Maybe 4.09 gears for more low and mid range seat of the pants.

 

[chagan02]

Unfortunate e85 is not an option. In that case headers and 18 mani with tune. And as others have said suspension like springs and cradle lockout. Add lightweight wheels (pp1 wheels are boat anchors) and 1 piece light weight drive shaft. Maybe 4.09 gears for more low and mid range seat of the pants.

What would be your suggestions on wheels? I see you have the P51's which are nice. I assume pp2 wheels on the 18+ cars are heavy as well, I like the way they look, but don't wanna spend more money on additional boat anchors. Lol. Also on the 18 mani, is it worth losing the low/mid tq (according to the VMP intake shootout) ?

 

[AZ18yote]

What would be your suggestions on wheels? I see you have the P51's which are nice. I assume pp2 wheels on the 18+ cars are heavy as well, I like the way they look, but don't wanna spend more money on additional boat anchors. Lol. Also on the 18 mani, is it worth losing the low/mid tq (according to the VMP intake shootout) ?

Anything forged / light weight but cost effective. Replicas are sometimes an option too.

Was this the shootout you were referring to?
https://www.fordmuscle.com/tech-sto...-fight-to-become-top-dog-on-the-chassis-dyno/

The OEM 18 did great as an upgrade to the 17, with the ported 18 an option too and still under 700.

Baer Eradispeed lightweight rotors as a direct replacement for the rotors in the pp1 also save on rotational weight.

 

[kluke15]

So why the need for the IRS brace and rear shock mounts? Was the HP/TQ gain noticeable for you with the Tune and LTH? I'd do it all at once as you suggest. How do you like those Pypes headers? I see no real benefit to paying for the Kooks, etc...

irs bracing helps against wheel hop and gives a better planted feel all around driving. rear shock mounts help the rear shocks pivot a tad better than stock and get rid of the bouncy ride in the rear. with those two alone the ride has become smoother and more predictable. tune and lth forsure picked up a good amount but with you roush catback its gonna be obnoxiously loud. and as ive read unless you go boosted the factory exhaust manifolds are too bad at all and headers just induce a lot more noise and vibrations which is not for everyone. the pypes have been fine for me. install was straight forward and didnt have really any issues with fit or finish on them.

 

[chagan02]

Anything forged / light weight but cost effective. Replicas are sometimes an option too.

Was this the shootout you were referring to?
https://www.fordmuscle.com/tech-sto...-fight-to-become-top-dog-on-the-chassis-dyno/

The OEM 18 did great as an upgrade to the 17, with the ported 18 an option too and still under 700.

Baer Eradispeed lightweight rotors as a direct replacement for the rotors in the pp1 also save on rotational weight.

Awesome, thanks. I'll look into the forged options. Yeah that's the shootout. According to their dynograph the 18 mani only prevails above 6500. I just don't wanna sacrifice any low end torque. I'd be on board if I could overcome that fear. lol.

 

[chagan02]

but with you roush catback its gonna be obnoxiously loud.

This ^. I'm worried it's gonna be so loud with headers. I'm contemplating going with headers then just changing out the cat-back to something more tame like the Borla Touring or Flowmaster.

 

[Nuked]

It really depends on if you want the car to be more powerful or handle better. Both will make the car "faster". Boost will eat the 5k up in it's entirety, so that is one option but supporting stuff will be needed sooner than later (clutch, tires and some suspension stuff).

5k will get you a tune, headers, 18+ manifold, LU47, and a CAI for power plus have enough for shocks/struts, springs and some other suspension goodies. If you install yourself you can save even more.

 

[chagan02]

It really depends on if you want the car to be more powerful or handle better. Both will make the car "faster". Boost will eat the 5k up in it's entirety, so that is one option but supporting stuff will be needed sooner than later (clutch, tires and some suspension stuff).

5k will get you a tune, headers, 18+ manifold, LU47, and a CAI for power plus have enough for shocks/struts, springs and some other suspension goodies. If you install yourself you can save even more.

Thanks a bunch for the input. LU47 Injectors? What would be the need for injectors since I can’t do E85? As for the other “power” mods you noted, will they be noticeable? If I’m gonna spend 3k for minimal gains on power I’d just lean FI. I wish I could ride in a S550 with these mods and just feel it for myself. From what I’ve read, I’m assuming those mods would be somewhere around 450whp? If so then that would certainly be noticeable, and combined with lighter weight wheels etc, then yes it would feel “faster”.

 

[chagan02]

Pretty much. The improvement available well within your budget is enormous and still retains good road manners/ride. Think of the PP as giving you the torsen diff and the brembo brakes mainly, and then it'll start making more sense.

Awesome, thanks so much for being real with me. Sound like you know your stuff.

Sooo something like this perhaps > https://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-assembled-handlingpack-2015gt.html

or the street version > https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-performance-street-handing-pack-fb-1516.html

 

[kluke15]

Thanks a bunch for the input. LU47 Injectors? What would be the need for injectors since I can’t do E85? As for the other “power” mods you noted, will they be noticeable? If I’m gonna spend 3k for minimal gains on power I’d just lean FI. I wish I could ride in a S550 with these mods and just feel it for myself. From what I’ve read, I’m assuming those mods would be somewhere around 450whp? If so then that would certainly be noticeable, and combined with lighter weight wheels etc, then yes it would feel “faster”.

i went backward. bought roush axle backs then added xpipe then went headers. if you dont have a resonator its gonna be stupid loud. i felt like i was wot everywhere i went just cruising at 2k rpm so it got old fast for me. i dont think you have any reason to change injectors unless going E or boosted otherwise you should be more than fine with the stocks. if you do go headers and you like the roush sound then i would suggest borla or magnaflow resonated midpipes. keeps the tone but lower the volume to more manageable levels. i threw a pair of rear racestars which are like 20lb each vs the stock pp rims which i think are 33lb each and wheels are next for me forsure it was so much better in every way with the lighter wheels on.

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