What to add factory subwoofer to trunk.

[goff]

I'm going through this process at the moment, you can't just plug it in and the sub will work, you need to purchase an amp/DSP to suit a Shaker Pro vehicle, as the 9 speaker DSP doesn't have the output for the sub.

Keep me posted please

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[Thisisdan]

I am watching with great interest …. I have a factory sub ( with amp attached ) and the plug in the boot but no patch lead

This is all I can find with reference to subwoofer wiring for 2017.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ocation=wiring-body-and-roof-console,,14A411A

 

[muntega]

Rear speakers replaced, got sub and dsp, waiting for the harness...

 

[Thisisdan]

This is all I can find with reference to subwoofer wiring for 2017.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ocation=wiring-body-and-roof-console,,14A411A

And this is a photo of a factory installed sub that's been removed from a 2017.
Looks like all it needs is the wiring from the plug to the sub

 

[goff]

This is all I can find with reference to subwoofer wiring for 2017.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/part...ocation=wiring-body-and-roof-console,,14A411A

Wow the postage for a $15 item

 

[muntega]

Subwoofer installation process

Minimum cut lines in red:

This tiny part has been never mentioned in this thread, but you need it to fix the upper bracket. Luckily I found one in my garage:

 

[Thisisdan]

View attachment 425139 View attachment 425140 View attachment 425141 View attachment 425142 View attachment 425143

Do you have a part number and photo of the cable that connects from the sub amp to the socket in the boot?

 

[muntega]

Do you have a part number and photo of the cable that connects from the sub amp to the socket in the boot?

You can find the photos in this thread. Just took the numbers from someone's post and placed my order. Still waiting due to holidays season...

US part #: JR3Z-14A411-C
EU part #: 2135259

Its the same part just different numbering, not sure which one you use for orders in Australia.

 

[Robertp]

Yes that part is mentioned just buy all the factory hardware and your good to go

Robert

Subwoofer installation process

Minimum cut lines in red:

This tiny part has been never mentioned in this thread, but you need it to fix the upper bracket. Luckily I found one in my garage:

[/QUOTE

 

[CocktailDave]

OK, first I wanna say thanks to everybody here who discovered all the tricks and secrets of our platform. With all the great information on this board I am starting my subwoofer install on my 9 speaker 2019 EB Premium 201A convert. I have the blue connector in the trunk. I will use that to power a Shaker Pro sub I found on eBay. I will get an aftermarket mono amp and replace the stock sub. I will tap the rear speakers for high level signal. I plan to replace the rear speakers while I am in there and probably use forscan to flatten the EQ as well.

I do have a couple questions about using that blue connector for power. I am going to get the JR3Z-14A411-C harness. The blue connector has a 10 gauge power wire available that is fused for 30 amps. It is for Magneride which I don't have so it's unused. This power wire should be fine for a 300 watt mono sub amp.

The harness has the sub power wire in a different location so the wire will need to be removed and relocated in the harness connector. How easy is this? It's probably not too difficult. I am also thinking rather than swapping wire positions I could just add another 10 gauge wire in the harness. I would need the part number of proper terminal to crimp on the new wire.

My last question concerns the Shaker enclosure. The stock speaker is bolted to the back of the enclosure at the magnet as well as the normal screws in the front flange. Does this extra attachment stiffen up the enclosure? I may need to modify the box to add some internal bracing if it has too much expansion when driven with the extra power of the aftermarket amp and sub. I will not get the sub until Tuesday so I will investigate this issue further.

Thanks for any comments.

David

 

[muntega]

Finalized my upgrade! The upgraded sound (oem coaxial 2-way rear speakers, amp and sub) is amazing compared to what it was with 9 speaker premium.

Still want to upgrade the front, but a bit confused with choosing the correct front door speakers (w/ohm)...

 

[chrisbronze]

Yes that part is mentioned just buy all the factory hardware and your good to go

Robert

New to this forum..first of all you all are so awesome sharing all this info to help people especially you Robert! ) I read the whole thread not as much mention of ecoboosts convertibles.(we don't have rear deck lid speakers so i'm assuming I have the 9 speaker mentioned. its a 2018 and has the harness. I purchased the shaker sub (stole it at $100 locally ) and have the pig tail on the way.( thanks to you all supplying the part number) It is the DSP that I'm a bit confused on I took a picture of the one in there now it's the FR3T 18T806 BT ..has anyone tried this one to see if it works..if so and it doesn't which part number do I need and where is best to find it? thank you for the help!

 

[chrisbronze]

New to this forum..first of all you all are so awesome sharing all this info to help people especially you Robert! ) I read the whole thread not as much mention of ecoboosts convertibles.(we don't have rear deck lid speakers so i'm assuming I have the 9 speaker mentioned. its a 2018 and has the harness. I purchased the shaker sub (stole it at $100 locally ) and have the pig tail on the way.( thanks to you all supplying the part number) It is the DSP that I'm a bit confused on I took a picture of the one in there now it's the FR3T 18T806 BT ..has anyone tried this one to see if it works..if so and it doesn't which part number do I need and where is best to find it? thank you for the help!

 

[chrisbronze]

Hi I have a 2018 ecoboost convertible with the harness in back my DSP is part number18T606BT will this one not work ? if not what part number am I looking for that will? thank you for the help!
Chris

Yes it will. I’ve done more research on this subject than I care to admit. First, there is a physical difference between a 9 speaker DSP and a 12 speaker DSP. The 9 speaker doesn’t physically have the traces on the circuit board for the sub signal, the 12 speaker does. Second, if you tell the ACM via FORScan changes to the as built hex that you have the 12 speaker DSP it will work IF the wiring is there. The 18 Premium cars have that wiring. The 15-17s could easily add it. Lastly if you do add it, make sure it’s shielded cable and not just regular eBay 22 gauge.
For the record second hand DSPs can be had for $35-50 and subs from salvage yards or better yet an audiophile buddy are not that expensive, $100-250.
You are correct about it being better, sort of. Sub bass is subjective. How it should sound and how people perceive it should sound are vastly different.[/QUOTE

 

[muntega]

UPDATE ON SOUND EXPERIENCE: it looked nice, but after a few days of listening I understood that something is wrong... Sub works as it is supposed to work, I asume - you can feel it at very low frequencies, would prefer the crossover at a bit higher, but ok. The problem is - way too much high’s and no mid’s. That was under 8/10 high, 6/10 mid and 8/10 low settings, which sounds good more or less on any audio.
I had to adjust to 5/10 high, 8/10 mid, 7/10 low to have a decent sound, which sometimes is still strange as well.
My questions:
- would replacement of front door low speakers help (35w/4ohm shaker vs 25w/4ohm original)? (Other font shaker/non-shaker speakers have the same parameters)
- any EQ settings on forscan? Any recommendations?
- any other experiences after shaker amp/sub/rear-coax install?

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