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3:73 gear upgrade from 3:31

Dutch44

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I'm putting 3:73 in my 2017 gt , im looking for the side carrier bearing part numbers and the pinion bearing numbers .
I'm told the F150 8.8 2015 up is the same , also if the Dana 44 shims can be used as at this moment the bearing numbers I kinda found is the 88048 and is used in the Dana 44 , I have a couple spares from gearing my Dana 44,s , also is the specs the same from the 8.8 to super 8.8 ? I know the components are about the same but not quite .. any information would be greatly appreciated thank you .
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I'm putting 3:73 in my 2017 gt , im looking for the side carrier bearing part numbers and the pinion bearing numbers .
I'm told the F150 8.8 2015 up is the same , also if the Dana 44 shims can be used as at this moment the bearing numbers I kinda found is the 88048 and is used in the Dana 44 , I have a couple spares from gearing my Dana 44,s , also is the specs the same from the 8.8 to super 8.8 ? I know the components are about the same but not quite .. any information would be greatly appreciated thank you .
The 2015-up F-150 does use the same internal parts, Make sure it is a "SUPER 8.8"
(Not the same as the older 8.8)
SEE: https://www.fordnxt.com/project-car...end-build-and-upgrades-with-ford-performance/

The large inner pinion brg cone ID is: 2.000"

Shim Kit (Pinion Brg) Ford 15 Shims .015 - .029, BC3Z-4663-AAA
Diff Carrier Brg Cone, CC3W-1240-AA
Complete Install Kit (Ring & Pinion Installation Kit for Super 8.8 from Ford Performance, M-4210-B3
Pinion Seal BL3Z-4676-A
Pinion Oil Slinger ford Between Yoke & Outer Pinion Brg, BL3Z-4670-A
Pinion Brg (Front), Outer Pinion Bearing, FL3Z-4561-A
Pinion Brg (Rear), Rear Pinion Bearing & Cup, BL1Z-4630-A
Pinion Brg Spacer (Crush Sleeve), BL1Z-4662-A
Pinion Nut Ford Lock Nut, FL3Z-4320-A
 
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Dutch44

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Thanks for the information, I was looking at your write up , I was looking for the timken numbers , I think the carrier is the A-36 set the descriptions says 2 req on the autoparts sight
 
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Dutch44

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The 2015-up F-150 does use the same internal parts, Make sure it is a "SUPER 8.8"
(Not the same as the older 8.8)

The large inner pinion brg cone ID is: 2.000"

Shim Kit (Pinion Brg) Ford 15 Shims .015 - .029, BC3Z-4663-AAA
Diff Carrier Brg Cone, CC3W-1240-AA
Complete Install Kit (Ring & Pinion Installation Kit for Super 8.8 from Ford Performance, M-4210-B3
Pinion Seal BL3Z-4676-A
Pinion Oil Slinger ford Between Yoke & Outer Pinion Brg, BL3Z-4670-A
Pinion Brg (Front), Outer Pinion Bearing, FL3Z-4561-A
Pinion Brg (Rear), Rear Pinion Bearing & Cup, BL1Z-4630-A
Pinion Brg Spacer (Crush Sleeve), BL1Z-4662-A
Pinion Nut Ford Lock Nut, FL3Z-4320-A
So John question ! When changing out drive shafts to Spicer's 1310 and such the usual method is just pull the flange yoke off and replace it with the new version and just retorque it I think it was 85 lbs I would have to look over some old notes for the number , You shouldn't crush the old sleeve with nothing more then a very slight negligible amount if any . This is how I do it on the Dana 44 and such and as was the method that the drive shaft manufacturing companies recommended I do to install the upgrades .
With that in mind can it be said for this to work with just replacing the gears while not replacing carrier as long as the required backlash and preload is achieved , if the pinion is within a reasonable amount of depth as with the one being replaced you could reuse the old sleeve . Basically your torque of the pinion yoke is just slightly less than what it takes to continue the crush of the sleeve , 300 + to originally start it and then something like 120 to continue the crushing so you would retorque the pinion yoke nut to around 85 to 90 something in that ball park , I know must guys just pull the yoke and slap the new version on , so this would work in theory for just changing out the gear unless of course you did the carrier as well then the side preload would be different then it would be time to reconfigure the perimeters , asking what your opinion on this theory is .
 
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Dutch44

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So I finally got the pinion out and kept all components in perfect condition , KOYO ST5195 bearing for the pinion which turns out to be the 9.75 Ford , Conversation bearing & Race to fit 11 and up Ford 9.75 ring and pinion in the 00 - 2010 , I'm looking for the timken number if I use the Ford number it gets a KOYO how ever KOYO owns timken , I don't think Ford had KOYO make a whole new die and manufacturing set up just for this new Super 8.8 , it's an older bearing just need to find out which one , all the auto store's are listing a incorrect one , I'm thinking the 3:15 is the one they list as it's a very small pinion bearing with I think 1.67 ID . I ran into a similar situation with the prorock differential when replacing the Dana 44 . Carrier bearing is the older Dana on the prorock , less than 10 bucks and if you go with the manufacturer number it's a premium 54.35 ..
 

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JohnVallo

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So John question ! When changing out drive shafts to Spicer's 1310 and such the usual method is just pull the flange yoke off and replace it with the new version and just retorque it I think it was 85 lbs I would have to look over some old notes for the number , You shouldn't crush the old sleeve with nothing more then a very slight negligible amount if any . This is how I do it on the Dana 44 and such and as was the method that the drive shaft manufacturing companies recommended I do to install the upgrades .
With that in mind can it be said for this to work with just replacing the gears while not replacing carrier as long as the required backlash and preload is achieved , if the pinion is within a reasonable amount of depth as with the one being replaced you could reuse the old sleeve . Basically your torque of the pinion yoke is just slightly less than what it takes to continue the crush of the sleeve , 300 + to originally start it and then something like 120 to continue the crushing so you would retorque the pinion yoke nut to around 85 to 90 something in that ball park , I know must guys just pull the yoke and slap the new version on , so this would work in theory for just changing out the gear unless of course you did the carrier as well then the side preload would be different then it would be time to reconfigure the perimeters , asking what your opinion on this theory is .
Here's some detail on Gear Change and rebuilding the Super 8.8:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gear-change-from-3-73-rear-gear-to-4-11-in-my-gt350.96590/

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/gear-change-from-4-11-rear-gear-to-4-56-in-my-gt350.104766/
 
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Dutch44

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Thanks , I found out the inner pinion bearing bearing issue I was having , it seems Ford has a 10 year right on that bearing and is the old 9.75 inner pinion just relabeled to the super 8.8 to keep the rights for another 10 years , I have the timken number now how ever it has 10 year price tag from 150 - 209 dollars unless I buy it Ford .
 
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Dutch44

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So the 3:73 gears are in , used national 100537 for the axle shaft seal $9.97 vs the $60.00 dollars the dealership wanted and they even gave up the national number as what they use , the inner ST5195 KOYO pinion bearing from the dealership is $80.00 and some change, the timken number is NP576375 Ford has a new 10 year rights on it and it is costly Napa has for order at 150.00 , since my old inner was in perfect condition at 7k miles I just reused it , I spoke with the drive line shop and they said they use the old bearings unless it has 30k plus as they do the gears for the dealership and the dealership doesn't want to replace the bearing unless it's 30k plus also . With that said I bought new ring gear bolts for $10.00 12M-1.25 x 25mm grade 10.9 Dorman # 981-625 PKG of 4 . With that said the cost of this was $129.00 for Ford performance gears , $9.00 for 1 seal , $10.00 for new ring gear bolts , Reused the .036 pinion shim as that seems to be the standard some are said to be using .037 as for the carrier shims I didn't spec those just reused them , I did use a new crush sleeve , the backlash came out at .008 the preload I did at 14 in lb as used bearing specs and checked the gear pattern with Prussian blue came out perfect .
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